Chess: 4 Books in 1 : Getting Started From a Beginner. Learn Successful Openings, Develop Advanced Strategy and Win Your Games.
Author: Curtis Bond
Date: 2021-05-07 18:24:17+00:00
Keywords: Games & Activities; Chess; Health & Fitness; Mental Health; Mathematics; Recreations & Games
Description: You've Always Wanted To Play Chess But Don't Know Where To Start? Do You Think Chess Is Too Hard To Learn? Or Are You Looking For A Hobby That Is Both Fun And Challenging? Then keep reading... Many people are attracted to chess because they are looking for a way to spend their spare time and to train their brains. Others see chess as an opportunity to be a part of relevant clubs and to participate in tournaments. Still others, turn this simple hobby into a career and participate in events of worldwide interesting. This collection may not immediately make you a Grand Master, but you will surely
Publisher: Donald Draper

CHESS: 4 BOOKS IN 1

Getting Started From A Beginner. Learn Successful Openings, Develop Advanced Strategy And Win your Games.

This Book includes:

Chess for Beginners

Chess Openings

Chess Strategy

Chess Exercises

CHESS FOR BEGINNERS

A Step-By-Step Guide To Know The Board, Pieces, And Rules. Learn Basic Moves And Tactics And Play The Best Beginners Strategies To Win

Table of Contents

Introduction

All About Chess

The Chess Board

Chess Board Terminology

Setting Up a Chess Board

Player Positioning

Initial Pieces Setup

Movement of the pieces

Pawns

Rooks:

Knights:

Bishops:

The Queen:

The King

How to Start Playing Chess

Don’t Get Discouraged

Playing the Game in Person

Joining a Local Chess Club

Playing in Tournaments

Your Elo Rating

Playing the Game Online

Getting Started Online

Types of Games

Where to Jump In

Chess Basics

Pawn

Rook

Bishop

King

Queen

Knight

Comprehension of Basic Chess Rules

Special Moves

Promotion

En Passant

Castling

Check and Checkmate

Draws

Openings, An Important Part of the Game

Top 10 Most Solid Chess Openings

King's Indian Attack

Gioco Piano: Guioco Pianissimo Variation

Nimzo-Indian Defense

Caro-Kann: Classical Variation

Caro-Kann: Advance Variation

Queens Gambit Declined: Cambridge Springs Variation

Queen's Gambit Declined: Semi-Slav Defense

French Defense: Fort Knox Variation

Colle System

Dutch Defense: Stonewall Variation

Step by Step Instructions to Win in The Chess Openings

Key to a Strong Opening

Different Concepts, Strategies, and Moves

How Can You Play Better Chess?

Game Better 1 - Take Your Time!

Game Better 2 - Your Opponent Has the Same Word in The Game!

Top Strategies

Three Basic Opening Chess Moves

Ruy Lopez

The Sicilian Defense

The Italian Game or Giuoco Piano

Offensive and Defensive Strategies

Stages of the Game

Chess Openings

The Ruy Lopez

The Italian Game

The King’s Gambit

Middle Game

Forks

Pins

Skewers

Endgame

Checkmate

Resignation

Forfeit

Draw

Stalemate

How to Think

Thinking During the Game

Part A: Your Move

Part B: Your Opponent’s Move

Common Mistakes of a Beginner

Chess Improvement Mistakes

Chess for Positive Learning Environment

Brilliant Sacrifices

Two Types of Sacrifices

Examples of Sacrifices

Elephant Gambit:

Danish Gambit Accepted

Final Chess Theory

How to Master the Secrets of The Masters?

Who Plays Chess, And Why?

Conclusion

Introduction

In this book, you will learn a lot as a chess beginner. It explains the rules and tips to be successful in chess. You will learn about the different pieces and how they move. There are also many puzzles in this book for you to solve. This book is very helpful for chess beginners because it teaches you all the basic concepts of chess that you need to know if you want to excel in this game.

This is a very important rule of chess that both beginners and professional players should follow when playing against a stronger player. This can be achieved by playing for a draw and striving to tie the game which will require little effort on your part as opposed to trying to beat the stronger player. To play this strategy, you need to develop a long-term plan that will help you achieve a draw.

This tip is very useful in chess because it helps beginners avoid making mistakes during their first games. It will also help players to stay calm when they make mistakes because they will realize that it is important for a beginner to start off slowly for them to avoid making any mistakes that they should have corrected before playing.

This tip will help you learn how to take advantage of the opponent’s mistakes. For beginners, this tip is very useful as it relates to taking advantage of the opponent’s mistakes and making the most out of them. This can be achieved by only playing according to your knowledge without running into any dangerous situations. You also should ensure that you are prepared to meet any threats from your opponents.

This tip will help you develop a good strategy in chess. It will help you learn how to analyze your position and how to make the correct decision. You can use this tip in all types of chess and even play with your friends while explaining to them the best moves to make for you not to lose the game.

This is a very important trick in chess that involves learning how to calculate the odds of winning, losing, and drawing a particular game.

This book on Chess for Beginners will teach every player that, after reading, they will be in a good position to beat any opponent.

The book will start with a description of chess rules, and then it will explain the chess pieces’ movements. There are many puzzles in this book so you can help your kid improve his brainpower.

You do not have to spend too much money on the chess school if you already have this book. Everything you need to know about chess is here.

You will learn about the names of different squares and how they match the chessmen. You will also learn about the squares that you are allowed to move your chessmen into.

You will also learn which color moves first, which pieces can move in which direction, and so on... There are many exercises for you to practice with, so they will help you understand everything better.

In this book, you will study chess notation, and how to write down your moves.

There are many things you should remember before playing. You must know that in chess you need to move all of your pieces every turn, so there will be no outcome if one of them is left unaccompanied on the board. Checkmates or checkings are also a very important aspect of the game. You will learn about checkmate, so you will know how it works and when do you need to use it.

All About Chess

As you probably know, chess is a two-player strategy game played on a checkered board. Many believe it originated in India, around the 6th century. It has been played all around the world ever since. But we’re not here to learn about the history of chess, we’re here to learn how to play it.

So, why play chess? Chess is a game that is as entertaining as it is intellectually challenging. If you like puzzles, riddles, problem-solving, and logic teasers, you will get a lot of pleasure out of playing chess. Chess will also give you a lot of pleasure if you don’t like any of the above. Moreover, although chess is often associated with logical thinking, it also has an artistic side. Throughout the history of this beautiful game, many Grandmasters have been acclaimed for their unconventionally entertaining chess styles which comprised unexpected combinations and brilliant piece sacrifices. Nonetheless, we will get more into that later in the book. My point is, chess is not just a game for “nerds”. It’s a game for everyone who enjoys creativity, which most people do.

Is chess hard? Very! Is it complicated to learn? Not as complex as people believe it to be. Understanding the basic rules of the game are actually quite simple and won’t take you too long. What’s hard about learning chess is becoming a decent player. Because of the infinite number of moves, one can make at each turn, it can take a while to be able to have a decent game of chess. It requires knowledge of chess strategies, tactics, dos and don’ts, recognition of specific playing patterns, and understanding of opening and endgame theory; all of which you will learn about in this book.

Though, there is no better way to learn the game than to play it. The more you play, the more you improve the quality of your game. You become a good chess player by making mistake over mistake, and learning from each one of them. Indeed, the best way to become a good chess player is to lose a lot of games and learn from them. As grandmaster José Raúl Capablanca said, “You may learn much more from a game you lose than from a game you win. You will have to lose hundreds of games before becoming a good player.” It’s as simple as that. I started playing chess as a teenager. At first, I remember thinking I could never understand and play the game. I remember losing hundreds of games and thinking I wasn’t smart enough to play the game. So, don’t think of it as losing but as learning to play.

I believe everybody should play chess. Not only is it a great strategic game that sharpens your brain and helps you think more effectively and logically, but it also comes with numerous scientifically proven benefits. Among other things, chess can:

- Raise your IQ
- Help prevent Alzheimer’s
- Increase your creativity
- Improve your memory
- Increase your problem-solving skills
- Improve your reading skills
- Improve your concentration
- Teach you planning and foresight

But the most appealing aspect of playing chess is entertainment. So, if you’re looking to reap all the benefits of playing the beautiful game of chess while having an incredible amount of fun, you’re in luck because you’re about to learn everything you need to know to start your king’s hunt and progressively improve your game.

The Chess Board

The chessboard comprises 64 alternating squares called “light squares” and “dark squares”. You can look at a chessboard as a grid with 8 columns and 8 rows. Each square in the game has specific coordinates that are made up of a letter, corresponding to the square’s position on the horizontal axis, and a number, corresponding to the square’s position on the vertical axis

Chess Board Terminology

To help you speak the language of chess, we’re going to go over a few chess terms used to describe the game. These terms are commonly used in the chess world and will be necessary for you to become a chess player and improve your game.

Setting Up a Chess Board

To properly orient your board, you should always make sure that the bottom right corner square is light.

Player Positioning

There are two opposite sides in a game of chess: the player with white pieces and the player with black pieces. For the remainder of this book, we will refer to the player with white pieces as “White” and the player with black pieces as “Black”. White sits behind the 1st rank while Black sits behind the 8th rank.

Initial Pieces Setup

Pawns aside, all pieces are placed along with the back ranks of the chessboard on each player’s side. For white, these pieces go on the 1st rank, and for black, they go on the 8th rank. Chess pieces are positioned symmetrically concerning the center of the board. Positioning is also determined by the color of each player’s pieces.

Movement of the pieces

Now that you know exactly how to position your pieces on the board, it’s time to learn how they move in the game. In chess, a “move” is the process of taking one piece from a specific square on the board and placing it on a different one. The player with white pieces is always the first to move a piece. After that, both players take turns making the move of their choice. Each player is allowed exactly one move per turn.

But players can’t just randomly move pieces. All chess pieces (King, Queen, Rook, Bishop, Knight, and pawns) have different rules associated with how they can move. For the sake of ease, let’s say each piece has a moving “Power”. Pawns all have the same moving power.

Pawns

Pawns have the most limited moving power. A pawn can only be moved (or pushed) one square at a time and in a vertical direction (except for special circumstances which we will get into later). Besides, pawns can only move forward. What this means is that at each turn, a player can only move a pawn in a course that carries it closer to the opponent’s camp. A pawn cannot move backwards or sideways, but it can move diagonally when capturing other pieces, which we will get into shortly.

Special moving circumstances for pawns: Certain exceptions apply to the way pawns are moved in the game of chess.

The two-square push: Each time a pawn is moved for the first time in the game, the player moving the pawn has the option to push it forward by 1 square or 2 squares. But this can only happen the first time a pawn is moved. Once a pawn has moved, regular pawn rules apply to it, and it can only be moved one square at a time.

The capture: Whenever a pawn captures an opponent’s piece on the board, it does so by moving diagonally. We will go over the concept of capturing shortly.

Rooks:

Rooks are very powerful pieces. They are free to move to any square along with files and ranks in any direction. They can freely be moved forward and backwards. This gives them a great reach and makes them very useful pieces for both offensive and defensive purposes. However, rooks can only be moved vertically and horizontally and cannot be moved diagonally.

Knights:

Knights have a somewhat peculiar moving power. There are two ways to move a knight. Knights can be moved to any square that is two squares away vertically and one square away horizontally, or to any square that is two squares away horizontally and one square away vertically. A simple way to represent the moving power of a knight is to say that knights move in Ls.

This L shaped motion makes the knight a unique and very useful piece in the sense that it cannot be blocked. This broadens a player’s attacking and defending options.

Bishops:

Bishops can move diagonally on the board to any available square. However, bishops cannot move vertically or horizontally. You could say bishops are the opposite of rooks. Each player has two different bishops, and the initial position of each bishop limits its movements to a specific color of squares.

For each player, the bishop that starts on a light square is called the light-squared bishop, and the bishop that starts on a dark square is called the dark-squared bishop.

The light-squared bishops can move diagonally to any available light square on the board but must remain on a light square at all times. The same applies to dark-squared bishops except they must remain on a dark square throughout the game.

The Queen:

The queen is considered the most powerful piece on the board. Indeed, the queen has the power to move anywhere along with the board’s ranks, files, and diagonals. In other words, the queen combines the moving powers of the rook and the bishop. In most cases, the queen is a player’s most precious piece after the king and his greatest attacking weapon. It should always be thoroughly defended. Having a queen advantage (capturing the opponent’s queen while having your own queen on the board) often guarantees victory, but not always.

The King

Arguably the weakest and yet the most important piece of the game, the king’s main role is to stay away from harm throughout the game while its subjects battle to defend it and attack the opponent’s king. However, in some cases, the king can serve as a defender to other pieces, and even join the attack, typically in the endgame when most soldiers have fallen. After pawns, the king is the piece with the least mobility. It can only move one square at a time. However, contrarily to pawns, the king can move in every direction: vertically, horizontally, diagonally, forward, and backwards.

These are all the rules that apply to the movement of chess pieces.

How to Start Playing Chess

Theory and the study of it are important, no doubt. In most scenarios, even a self-taught strategist will have the upper hand over a player relying solely on instinct. At the same time, however, a player with zero practical experience will always be at a disadvantage against an experienced player, regardless of his/her strategy. This is solely because chess, above all, is unpredictable. While the theory is useful in outlining the “best” moves from a material and positional standpoint, the human element of chess can never be fully explained by theorists.

Grandmaster Emmanuel Lasker was frequently known to open with the Ruy Lopez Exchange Variation, widely considered at the time to be a poor strategic play. While his defiance of conventional certainly gave him a psychological edge over his opponent’s, modern strategists now see that Lasker’s thinking was ahead of his time.

Don’t Get Discouraged

As we’ve said, you’ll be starting at a disadvantage against most experienced players. While this guide can certainly help you narrow that gap, don’t worry if you lose your first few games. One of the great things about chess is that even defeat offers growth opportunities, especially for a trained eye. Very rarely does a match go by without at least one player making a mistake. The ability to spot these errors and learn from them is what makes a great chess player.

But where should you get started? If you have friends or family who are already fans of the game and willing to play with you, you already have a great place to start. However, playing with the same small group over and over will eventually become stale, and may even hinder your technique. This is part of the reason why new, innovative players in the professional scene can be difficult to counter.

Playing the Game in Person

No, we’re not talking about the movements of pieces and opening strategies anymore—From here on forth, it’s time for you to get out there and start playing in the active sense! This is one of the most exciting moments in a growing player’s career, but also one of the most intimidating. Of course, stepping out of your comfort zone is an essential step along any path to personal growth and learning, but don’t feel you have to push yourself too far.

Joining a Local Chess Club

While somewhat niche, chess is a thriving pastime with players all over the world. Almost every city will have at least one chess club to join, and most are always looking for new members. While most don’t advertise heavily, finding a club in your area should be easy with a simple web search. From there, you simply need to do your research.

Some clubs will require formal signup before you arrive at your first event, but in many cases, you can simply show up and start playing. Generally, it’s a good idea to check the club’s schedule and see if there are designated meeting times for casual play or even beginner’s games. Showing up on your first day ready to play in a ranked tournament is likely to cause needless stress both for you and the club organizers.

Playing in Tournaments

Once you’ve racked up a few wins and gained some valuable experience, you might decide it’s time to test your skill in a competitive setting. If going to your first club meeting is an intimidating prospect, your first tournament might cause a degree of anxiety as well. If that’s the case, it’s a good idea to wait until you feel relatively comfortable, even if you’ve reached an appropriate skill level. Of course, you can’t delay forever and might have to push yourself if you don’t feel the confidence arising naturally. For the most part, your club community should be able to provide you with advice on whether you’re ready for the big time.

In round-robin style tournaments, every player faces off against every other player the same number of times. Since everyone faces everyone, many consider this style to be a good judge of pure skill, as it reduces the chance of “unlucky” pairings. However, there are still human elements and elements of chance that contribute to the results of these tournaments. For example, the player’s fatigue or mindset can vary from one opponent to the next. A player who suffers an unforeseen loss early on may suffer from a loss of momentum compared to other participants.

Regardless of the type of tournament you play in, however, you’ll have the unique opportunity to participate in post-game analysis. Engaging in analysis with other tournament-level players is one of the best ways to grow as a strategist, in addition to being a rewarding opportunity to meet new friends and potential opponents. Additionally, playing in tournaments allows you to begin building your chess rating.

Your Elo Rating

Once you’ve participated in a tournament, you’ll have the opportunity to earn an Elo rating, which can be improved the more you play in official settings. While some hold the misconception that Elo is an acronym (this is why you’ll often see the term capitalized), it actually refers to Arpad Elo, the chess master who created the rating system.

Basically, an Elo rating is a comparative rating designed to calculate a player’s relative skill compared with others in their player pool. As a result, different federations have separated Elo rating systems with slight variations on the precise rating method. Because of this, if you were to earn a FIDE rating in your first tournament, you would only be able to build that rating by participating in FIDE-sanctioned competitions.

Additionally, several organizations have different requirements before a rating can be earned. Some organizations require that you score a victory in a tournament play before your rating is established, while others supply you with a provisional rating until you’ve completed a certain number of rated games.

A unique facet of the Elo rating system is that different point values are at stake for either competitor in a rated game. For instance, if a low-rated player and a high-rated player were to end in a draw game, the lower-rated player would improve in their rating, while the higher-rated player’s rating would decrease. This is because, rather than being designed as a system of rewarding players for accomplishment, the Elo system uses an impartial statistical method to determine the relative strengths of players.

Playing the Game Online

Online chess offers several distinct advantages. For one, you can play as much as you want without ever spending money. You don’t even need to buy a chess set! Furthermore, you can play whenever and wherever you want, making it an extremely versatile option for players who travel or have hectic schedules. While it lacks the immediate social engagement and learning opportunities of local play, you’ll go on to gain the benefit of playing against a near-endless lineup of opponents from all over the world. This way, you’re guaranteed to see countless unique styles and strategies to study and learn from.

While you’re playing in this community for convenience, playing online is still a great way to get started as a fledgling player. It’s also a solid option for keeping your skills sharp between meetups. As yet another bonus, getting started is as easy as hitting “enter” in your browser’s search bar.

Getting Started Online

Before you register, however, you’ll need to pick the site that’s most suited to your needs. A strong option is Lichess, which is equally popular with a somewhat simpler option. Notably, Lichess is completely free and sustained by donations, so while its interface and training tools are somewhat less complex than its competitors, you can access all of them without paying a cent.

Just like different federations, each online chess site ranks players according to its own rating system. Unlike live tournaments, however, getting your starting rating is usually much simpler. As soon as you start playing, you’ll begin building your rating. You may lose your first set of games, especially if you’re coming to the site without any experience, but eventually, you’ll settle into a tier with other players of your skill level. From there, it’s just a matter of training until you can move up to a higher rating and hold onto it.

Types of Games

Unlike in-person games of chess, where two players sit down across a table from one another, there’s no way to be sure what your opponent is up to on the other side of your computer screen. Due to this, online chess matches have had to find some method of ensuring that players don’t simply walk away from a game whenever they please. Or, if they do abandon a match, those players ought to face repercussions.

This has resulted in two types of chess becoming most popular for online play: blitz chess and correspondence chess. The former option ensures that players who leave a game are given a loss, while the latter embraces the option for players to take their time between each move. After all, that digital board isn’t going anywhere.

In fact, most competitive chess games utilize some form of a time limit, though usually, it is much more forgiving. It’s not uncommon for chess games to take up to two hours in tournament settings. However, in a blitz game, there’s a 20-minute maximum. This drastic difference means that blitz chess can help you sharpen your quick-thinking abilities compared to the traditional play, but you may miss out on some of the more deep-thinking elements of strategy.

For an extreme example of deep-thinking chess and a chance to hone your long-form skills, there’s correspondence chess. Originally, this was a form of a long-distance game in which opponents would send each other moves by letter, hence the name. With the advent of the internet, correspondence chess has moved on to email, and even designated correspondence servers.

Perhaps the extreme opposite to blitz games, correspondence chess can take days, months, or even years just to complete a single game. Due to its slow-paced nature, it’s not only an excellent exercise in deep, methodical play but a chance to form long-lasting connections with fellow chess enthusiasts. After a month-long correspondence game with someone, taking days or weeks at a time to assess their strategy, you’ll have made a bond for life.

Where to Jump In

There’s no single correct way to start playing chess, but hopefully, by now, you should have a clearer idea of how you’d prefer to proceed. While chess clubs offer deep social experiences and learning opportunities, online chess can be a more convenient and less intimidating option.

For most players, getting some practical experiences at home or online can help prepare you for club-level play. If you’re confident in your skills or don’t mind taking a few losses, there’s nothing wrong with jumping straight into your local club scene. Ultimately, serious players will eventually want to join a club, as it connects them with the local community and helps to keep them up to date on upcoming tournaments. However, you can still develop a rich knowledge and enjoyment of chess simply by playing online or with your friends at home.

Chess Basics

Before we go into how the pieces move, I want to make a point about controlling the center. Every piece in chess (with exception of the King) has a better advantage when placed toward the center. If you put your thumb in the center of the board, it will touch four squares: d4, d5, e4, and e5. Pieces have more mobility when they are closer to the center—if they are on the side of the board, on the other hand, they may have access to fewer than half of the squares.

This information allows you to decide when it is safe to capture a protected piece and when it isn’t.

For example, should the Queen capture a protected Pawn? No, the Queen is worth 9 points and the Pawn is worth 1 point, so in capturing the pawn, you’d lose 8 points. Keep in mind that chess involves a little bit of math.

Pawn

White: 8; black: 8

Movement: one or two squares forward on the first move. Once a pawn has moved, it continues only one square forward. Pawns never move backward.

Capture: diagonally, one square forward.

Value: 1 point

Why is the pawn unique compared to any other piece?

1.    Pawns move differently than how they capture. Every other piece moves and captures the same way.

2.    Pawns can’t move or capture backward.

3.    If a pawn gets to the further side of the board, it can transform into a piece other than the pawn or king. (This is called promotion)

Pawns move forward but capture diagonally one square forward. The pawn is the weakest in chess because of its relative lack of mobility—all other pieces can move or capture more than two squares. What is the reason why the pawn can’t move or capture backward? When I am in class, I tell students that since the pawn is the low-ranked soldier, it is not allowed to return home until the battle is over.

Strengths:

- Once a pawn gets to the other side of the board, it can transform into a queen, rook, bishop, or knight

- Pawns are used to defend the king—wherever you decide to castle, your pawns should stay close by

- Tactical piece (Fork)

Weaknesses:

- Lack of mobility
- Can’t move long distances
- The weakest piece in the game

Strategy:

- At the start of the game, move your center pawns first

- Once your king is castled, move your pawns on the opposite side

Pawn movement:

Pawn capture:

Rook

White: 2; black: 2

Movement: vertical/horizontal

Capture: vertical/horizontal

Value: 5 points

Rooks move and capture horizontally (left/right) and vertically (up/down). Rooks can’t jump over pieces and can get blocked by the opponent’s pieces or those of their own color.

Strengths:

- A lot of mobility
- Can move long distances
- Control both light and dark squares

- Tactical piece (fork, pin, skewer, discovered attack, etc.)

Weaknesses:

- Can’t control diagonals

Strategy:

- Control open files

- Double up rooks on an open file

- Get rook(s) on the 7th or 8th rank (or 1st or 2nd if you’re playing black)

Rook movement:

Rook capture:

Bishop

White: 2 (One light square, one dark square)

Black: 2 (One light square, one dark square)

Movement: diagonal

Capture: diagonal

Value: 3 points

Bishops move and capture diagonally on the chessboard. One bishop control only the light squares, while the other controls only the dark squares. Bishops can’t jump over pieces, besides, it can get blocked by the opponent’s pieces or those of their own color.

Strengths:

- A lot of mobility
- Can move long distances
- Control both light and dark squares

- Tactical piece (fork, pin, skewer, discovered attack, etc.)

Weaknesses:

- Can’t control files or ranks

- Can’t control both dark and light squares if one bishop has already been captured

Strategy:

- Control open diagonals

- Move in open positions, that is, positions with mostly open or semi-open files and diagonals

- Try to keep both bishops

Bishop movement:

Bishop capture:

King

White: 1; black: 1

Movement: vertical/horizontal/diagonal, only one square

Capture: vertical/horizontal/diagonal, only one square

Value: the game

The king is the most important piece and decides the game. It can move or capture in any direction, but only one square at a time. Remember: the king can never capture a protected piece—this would be an illegal move. You are also not allowed to put your king into check or keep it in check. Finally, the way to end the game is called checkmate.

Take a look at the diagram. The king is under attack by the rook on c6. Where can the king move, or what can it capture? The king can capture the rook on b4 and the pawn on d5.

Why can’t the king move to other squares?

- Square b5: protected by white’s rook on b4.

- Square b6: protected by both of white’s rooks.

- Square c6: the rook is protected by the pawn on d5.

- Square d6: protected by white’s rook on c6.

- Square d4: the bishop is protected by the rook on b4.

- Square c4: protected by the rook on c6.

Strengths:

- Controls both light and dark squares

- Tactical piece (fork)

Weaknesses:

- Lack of mobility
- Can’t move long distances
- Constant target in the game

Strategy:

At the start of the game, hide the king on either the queenside or kingside (away from the center). Then, toward the end, bring the king out to play!

King movement:

King capture:

Queen

White: 1; black: 1

Movement: vertical/horizontal/diagonal

Capture: vertical/horizontal/diagonal

Value: 9 points

The queen moves and captures in any direction as far as it can on the chessboard. The queen can’t jump over pieces and be blocked by the opponent’s pieces or those of its own color.

Strengths:

- A lot of mobility
- Strongest piece in the game
- Controls both light and dark squares

- Tactical piece (fork, pin, skewer, discovered attack, etc.)

Weaknesses:

- Doesn’t really have any

Strategy:

- Don’t bring out the queen too early, as it can be attacked or even trapped

- Bring the queen out in the middle of the game, once the knight and bishops are developed

- Since the queen is very powerful—the strongest attacker—try to include it in any attacks

Queen movement:

Queen capture:

Knight

White: 2; black: 2

Movement: l shape

Capture: l shape

Value: 3 points

Knights move in an L shape, which means they can jump over pieces. Knights are the only pieces in chess that can jump and never be blocked! The L-shape move consists of three squares: either two squares horizontally followed by one square vertically, or two squares vertically followed by one square horizontally. When a knight moves, it will always land on the opposite-colored square. For example, if the knight sits on a light square, it will move to a dark square. Alternatively, if the knight begins on a dark square, it will move to a light square.

Strengths:

- A lot of mobility

- Controls both light and dark squares

- Tactical piece (fork, discovered attack, etc.)

Weaknesses:

- Can’t control files or ranks

- Can’t move long distances

Strategy:

- Move in closed positions, that is, positions with mostly blocked files and diagonals

- Place a knight on an outpost square (a square that can’t be attacked by an enemy pawn)

Knight movement:

Knight capture:

Comprehension of Basic Chess Rules

The game of chess is won when you force your opponent’s king into checkmate, which means they have to be captured. Checkmate is a position in which the owner of the king cannot make any move whatsoever to get their king to safety; be it moving the king or moving another piece in to defend it. If a player makes a move against their opponent’s king and leaves in such a way that the king can be captured on the next move, this is called check, and the opponent must save their king on their next move.

The king is never actually physically captured. It is the responsibility of both players to ensure that there are no available moves that will help stop the king from being captured or put into checkmate. When you place your opponent’s king into check, you must say the word “check.” This will warn the other player that their king is in danger. Likewise, if you place their king into checkmate, you must say, “checkmate” when you do it. One thing you must never do is expose your king in such a way that your opponent can place it in to check.

As you play the game, you must try to capture your opponent’s pieces to get them out of the game. This clears the way for you to attack their king with the least amount of opposition. To capture a piece, you move onto the square that the piece occupies and replace it with your piece. You cannot capture your own, and you cannot have two of your pieces on the same square,

White always starts the game of chess and, from then on, each player takes turns to move a piece. You must make a move on every turn. There is no such thing as passing in a chess game unless you are castling. This is a particular move made in which two pieces are moved in a bid to protect the king—this move will be explained in greater detail a little later.

Be aware that not every game will end in a win for someone. Some games end up as draws or ties. These are called stalemates, and it occurs when neither player has their king in check, but neither can make a legal move without placing their king into check. Remember, you cannot put yourself in check and, if your only move would let that happen, the game must end in a stalemate.

Special Moves

There are a couple of special moves and abilities that some pieces have in a game of chess, and you would do well to learn them and use them.

Promotion

This only applies to pawns. No other piece has this unique ability. If you can get one of your pawns successfully across the chessboard to the other side, it can be promoted into any other piece you desire. This means that you can promote it into any piece on the board. Most people choose to promote their pawns to queens as it gives them a distinct advantage. It is also not true that you can promote your pawn only to a piece that has already been captured by your opponent. If you are talented enough and plan your game carefully, you can end up having multiple queens on the board.

En Passant

This also applies only to pawns. En Passant means “in passing” in French and, in this move, if you move your pawn two squares out on its first move and that move puts you directly beside your opponent’s pawn, the opponent can use his pawn to capture yours. As a rule, pawns can only capture diagonally unless this situation arises. In a typical situation, your opponent can capture your pawn only if it is diagonal to his pawn. Using this method, your opponent can capture your pawn when you are next to his pawn. However, that pawn must be captured on the next move, otherwise, it cannot be done. A player doesn’t necessarily have to capture his opponent’s pawn if he has a better move, but if this is the only legal move, then he must capture his opponent’s pawn. This is the only capture move where the piece that captures does not take the place of the captured piece.

Castling

This is the move that allows you to move 2 pieces in one go. First and foremost, it is a move designed to keep your king safe or to move it to safety if need be. Secondly, it also allows you to bring the rook away from the corner square and into play. For example, move your king from E1 to G1 and then move the rook from H1 to F1. Some conditions must be true to the castle:

- This must be the very first move that your king makes

- It must also be the very first move that the rook makes

- Castling can’t be done if there are any pieces between the king and the rook

- The king cannot be in check or cannot pass through check

When you castle to the side that the king is nearest to, this is called castling kingside. When you castle to the side that the queen is on, this is called Castling queenside. Irrespective of which side you choose to go, you may still only move the king two squares.

Check and Checkmate

As I explained earlier, the purpose of a game of chess is to place your opponent’s king into checkmate, a position whereby the king cannot be moved to safety and another piece cannot be brought in to play to defend it. There are just three ways in which an opponent can get their king out of check:

- Move to another position without castling

- Use another piece to block the checkmate

- Capture the piece that is threatening the checkmate

Draws

Sometimes a chess game will go to a tie or a draw. You need to know about these draws if you want to avoid them. If you remain unaware of them, your opponent could push a game that you could have won easily into a draw. Here are five reasons why that may happen:

- A stalemate is reached where neither person can move without putting their king into check (the king will NOT be in check at this point)

I am sure that you are aware of what a stalemate entails. While under a stalemate, the opponent’s king isn’t threatened in any way. However, your opponent has no legal moves left. Beginners usually opt for this method to end the game in a draw. Professionals know that the chances of players making silly mistakes to end up in a stalemate are very slim. Hence, they stay away from it. However, there have been instances where professional players end games in a stalemate.

- The two players can agree to draw and halt the game

This is one of the easiest ways to draw a game. According to this method, both players mutually agree to a draw. This happens only when both players feel that they have no chance of winning. Such a situation arises when a player feels that he can win only if his opponent messes it up. When you play on a professional platform, you know that the chances of your opponent making a silly mistake are highly unlikely. This is when you offer an option to draw the game. This way, both of you end up with one point each. There are many instances where the players call it a draw because of the cash prize involved. Some tournaments offer both players’ cash prize if the game ends in a draw. This is why a lot of tournaments end with a draw because it benefits both players. However, the players are not allowed to call a draw even before the game begins.

- There are insufficient pieces left on the chessboard to force a checkmate.

This situation arises when both players are left with very few pieces. When both players have very few pieces, it becomes impossible for them to checkmate their opponent’s king. Hence, due to the lack of pieces, the players can end in a draw. Some guidelines need to be met before a player can claim a draw through this method. This rule can be used only if it is not at all possible for the player to checkmate his opponent’s king, even after some legal moves. It is tough for players to prove that they don’t have enough pieces to checkmate their opponent. Hence this method of the draw isn’t used very often.

- If the same position is declared three times, not necessarily in a row, a player may declare a draw.

This is a situation known as threefold repetition. When a player makes the same move thrice in a match, the opponent can claim a draw. The procedure to claim this draw is different from the others. However, the principle behind all the draws is the same. This rule cannot be used to claim a draw after three checks because a player usually checks his opponent some times throughout a match. However, if a player gives you a check in the same manner thrice in a row, then you can use this rule to declare a draw.

- 50 moves have been played consecutively without either player capturing a piece or moving a pawn.

Not many players know this rule, or even if they do, they do not understand how it works. According to this rule, if in a specific game, the diversion appears no sign of advance for both players at the conclusion of fifty moves each, at that point either one of the players can claim to conclude the diversion in a draw. When I say progress, it means the movement of a pawn or the loss of a piece. If the game doesn’t show any such signs of progress, then the game can end in a draw. However, this rarely happens because no professional player would make fifty useless moves. In a game between two beginners, such a situation could arise.

Openings, An Important Part of the Game

Top 10 Most Solid Chess Openings

There are numerous strong chess openings; however, I'm going to show you the ten strongest chess openings that there are. First, perhaps, I ought to characterize a solid chess opening; it is a chess opening represented by inconsequential hazard taking and tranquil positional play, as contrasting to sharp strategic lines. Strong positions, when all is said and done, will, in general, be very difficult to break and possibly difficult for a novice to perceive, yet an accomplished chess player can tell immediately whether a position is strong or strategic. In any case, here is a commencement of the strongest openings in chess.

King's Indian Attack

Move request isn't significant; however, white will have:

- Nf3
- g3
- Bg2
- 0-0
- d3
- e4
- Nd2

It is a strange opening in the way that it is truly called something very similar, paying little heed to what black plays. Notice, however how white sets up their pieces behind the lines efficiently and the arrangement truly leaves white without any shortcomings, even though it isn't especially goal-oriented. White will set up their strong structure after these moves and afterwards play on the flanks. It isn't generally viewed as an incredible opening, yet some exceptionally solid players like Bobby Fischer have played it with progress, so it is not a horrendous opening, either.

Gioco Piano: Guioco Pianissimo Variation

- e4 e5
- Nf3 Nc6
- Bc4 Bc5
- d3

The Gioco Pianissimo is an increasingly strong variety of the Guioco Piano. It is extremely only an opening that is perfect for building up your pieces and very little else. There truly is no real way to make a solid assault right out of the opening in light of the way that white's most dynamic piece, the bishop on c4, can be killed by Be6. Still, this opening stay very well-known with beginners since it is extremely normal and simple to remember.

Nimzo-Indian Defense

- d4 Nf6
- c4 e6
- Nc3 Bb4

The Nimzo-Indian Defense is strong in an idea. White's arrangement in playing Nc3 is to get ready e4, which could give white a genuine preferred position if they figure out how to do that so black forestalls it by sticking the knight. After black trades their bishop for white's knight, they have full oversight over e4, which makes it very hard for white to get the perfect pawn focus successfully. The Nimzo is tried and true, and there is no real way to disprove this strong opening totally.

Caro-Kann: Classical Variation

- e4 c6
- d4 d5
- Nf3 dxe4
- Nxe4 Bf5

The Caro-Kann: Classical Variation gives black with a strong pawn assembly with no conspicuous shortcomings in it. This provides black a bit of leeway in the end game as his pawn assembly is superior to white's. Moreover, black can play c5 at a fitting time, assaulting white's d4 pawn and totally disposing of his inside. The entirety of this gives black bountiful chances to balance the game, and this opening makes it difficult for white to keep up a preferred position.

Caro-Kann: Advance Variation

- e4 c6
- d4 d5
- e5

It has a basic thought on it. White shoves their pawn to pick up the squares in the middle. This anyway, has a disadvantage. The downside is that that move enables black to bring their bishop out to f5, and afterwards play e6, leaving them with a super-strong fortification in the middle without agonizing over a caught bishop on c8. It is anyway viewed as playable for which and is really thought to be probably the best continuation for them. Still, you need to strive to break black's position.

Queens Gambit Declined: Cambridge Springs Variation

- d4 d5
- c4 e6
- Nc3 Nf6
- Bg5 Nbd7
- Nf3 c6
- e3 Qa5

The Cambridge Springs Variation is open with a comparable plan to the Nimzo. With the move Qa4 black, both unfastens the knight on f6 and gives themselves authority over the d5 square, where they can put their knight later on. Except for the bishop on c8, the entirety of black's pieces is either created or will be in no time; black's dull squared bishop will come to b4 and put colossal weight on the knight.

Queen's Gambit Declined: Semi-Slav Defense

- d4 d5
- c4 e6
- Nc3 Nf6
- Nf3 c6

The thought behind the Semi-Slav Defense is to play dxc4. Afterwards protect it with b5, which after the move c6, is presently shielded from the knight. Black's pawn structure in the Semi-Slav will, in general, be fairly strong, albeit white is continually attempting to undermine it. Simply looking at it, you will see the characterized pawn boundary using the pawns c6, d5, plus e6. It is a decent opening decision, particularly for players that like to win a pawn and afterwards sit on it until the endgame.

French Defense: Fort Knox Variation

- e4 e6
- d4 d5
- Nc3 dxe4
- Nxe4 Bd7
- Nf3 Bc6

You can tell that the Fort Knox Variation is strong just by hearing its name. It has the entirety of the advantages of the French Defense, yet without the unceasing cerebral pain of the bishop on c8. Rather than managing the advancement of the horrendous bishop, later on, black burns through two tempi moving the bishop to the more gainful c6 square. There are no shortcomings in black's position and white's lead being developed methods; nothing since black doesn't burn through whenever. This is the reason the Fort Knox Variation comes in at number three.

Colle System

- d4 d5
- Nf3 Nf6
- e3 e6
- Bd3 c5
- c3

The Colle System is one of those openings that are strong if your rival plays into the framework. Black can keep away from this opening all together by playing g6 rather than e6 at move three, and pick to go into a King's Indian arrangement. I need to state this is an exceptionally fun opening to play since it is for players, all things considered. Some may contend with me about that; however, this is so strong, just by looking at it truly, but then some strategic brilliancies have left this opening.

Dutch Defense: Stonewall Variation

- d4 f5
- c4 e6
- Nf3 e6
- g3 d5
- Bg2 c6
- Bd6

The Stonewall Variation is the apex of strong chess openings. Black's pawn structure on c6, d5, e6, and f5 is very inflexible. Thus, it is a twofold edge. On the one hand, if black can figure out how to get c8 bishop dynamic, which will, in general, be more difficult than one might expect; at that point, white has a lengthy, difficult experience to getting a success. Then again, on the off chance that black doesn't figure out how to get the bishop dynamic, at that point they are adequately playing a piece down, and white will have a genuine bit of leeway. Black truly just would like to get an equivalent position, yet they face indistinguishable difficulties from white on the off chance that they wish to play for success.

To summarize everything, strong chess openings are great; however, they are not for everybody. If it's all the same to you, playing positional chess, then you ought to perhaps attempt one of these openings. However, if you are a progressively strategic player, at that point, you ought to make an effort not to smother what your identity is. Play the openings that are best for you and don't tune in to anybody that says that a specific opening is the best, since it is about how you play. The opening that some grandmasters could possibly play is superfluous to your advancement as a chess player. I hope this has helped you increase some understanding of the sort of openings that strong chess players use. Good luck, and I wish you well on your journey to improve as a chess player.

Step by Step Instructions to Win in The Chess Openings

The test has been presented—How to win in the chess openings of your game? There are a few different approaches to opening a chess game. A mainstream one is the alleged Queen's Gambit. This methodology has been talked about somewhere else. It is preferably antiquated and is even more regularly alluded to as Queen's Gambit Declined—where White beginnings play unexpectedly. Honestly, a chess opening is a gathering of moves by the player toward the beginning of the game. Other understood openings are the Sicilian Defense and the Two Knights Defense. A portion of these is additionally alluded to as "Book Moves". You should have the option to discover your Book (Encyclopedia of Chess Openings) at a decent library or shop.

This exhibit—or more appropriately, title gameplay—was seen at the current month's 2010 World Chess Championship. Game one was extraordinary—finishing with the adversaries King checkmated by the White Rook and Bishop. The game was over in thirty moves. This is somewhat a quick game. It may then be useful to perceive what winning openings were utilized in this and a portion of different games.

Be that as it may, we were amazed to see Anand (White) open with the Grunfeld Exchange in the fourth game. Did he not realize this is out of style? He next put his Queen’s Knight on c3. He at that point passed his Queen's Pawn with his Bishop's Pawn. This relinquished the Pawn to the adversary Knight and was then caught by the Queen's Knight Pawn. Mixes of splendid moves of Pawns, Rook, and Bishops (with penances) put the adversary King in checkmate. This gathering of moves demonstrated that it is so significant to get the Knights and Bishops into mid-play.

Another incredible opening was utilized in Game 4—The Catalan Defense. Here the Queen's and Bishop's Pawns are moved to the fourth position. The King's Knight is then put on f3. This succession enabled White to, in the long run, checkmate the rival King with his Queen and King's Rook. This shows the significance of knowing even the most essential methodology to begin gameplay. This is the way you can win chess—by knowing, rehearsing, and utilizing your opening moves. Adhere to these guidelines, search the models, study the experts, and you also may turn into a victor player.

Key to a Strong Opening

Any opening in chess can be a potent opening offense or defense as long as you remember a handful of vital principles. Because chess is based on strategies and rules, it’s important not to decide which rules you feel comfortable breaking until you’ve developed your sense of strategy and style. One of the first things you should keep in mind is not to make too many pawns moves. It can feel powerful and effective to start marching your pawns across the board like men on a mission, but those pawns also need to protect the more valuable pieces behind them.

The next thing to remember when opening your game is to develop all your pieces, not just your pawns and your first attack pieces. Using all your pieces early in the game maximizes the movement you can get from each piece. Getting your pieces out and moving makes them harder to capture. It’s also important not to move the same pieces twice in a row. If you want to move a piece, move it, and move on. Don’t inch the same pawn across the board on every move—your opponent will take advantage of this and begin taking out the pieces you’ve been ignoring while you’re not looking.

Another crucial opening principle is to take care of your king and queen. Beginner players should be encouraged to castle their king for the extra protection it provides. Remember that you can only castle once, so don’t be afraid to use it when you feel unsure about your next move. It can’t hurt to castle as soon as you have the opportunity.

Don’t forget your queen, too. She’s the most powerful piece on the board, yes, but that doesn’t mean she shouldn’t be protected, also. If you lose her, you’ll have to achieve a pawn promotion to bring her back. Keep your queen surrounded with a couple of guards if you can, and don’t let her move too aggressively too early in the game.

When you’re working out the latter parts of your opening moves, don’t forget that territory is the name of the game. If you can control the center of the board, you’ll be able to hold both an offensive and defensive line, so work on getting your pieces into position to protect your central territory. Our last beginner strategy that you should put into practice is to try and connect your rooks. By this, we mean clearing out the spaces in the backline, that will allow you to have your rooks work in concert with each other. Rooks are powerful pieces that can do a tremendous amount of damage if they can play off of each other and shadow each other’s moves.

Now, you’ve been given the knowledge you need to get your game off on the right foot. Once you’ve completed a strong opening, you can start to think about your mid-game strategies. We will be taking an in-depth look at the attack and protection moves that will help you be a successful strategist and build your long game to propel yourself towards effective end-game moves.

Different Concepts, Strategies, and Moves

When you buy a wooden chess set or an electronic chess set, you buy a fundamental piece of culture, history, and mental stimulation. But if you play traditional wooden chess, or against another human, or electronic chess against artificial intelligence, you must know some of the essential elements of chess strategy. If you get into this beautiful game for yourself, the same thing will happen to you.

This strategy is particularly crucial for chess. It's not a game that can be improvised (at least not wholly), and if you really want to win, you can't just rely on luck. Each improvisation in chess should be the result of only responding to the opponent's movements. Before you start the game, you want to have a mapping strategy.

On the off chance that you are a learner in chess, you will build up your playing style after some time; however, that doesn't imply that you have delivered the absolute most fundamental chess techniques created more than several years and demonstrated to work.

How about we investigate the absolute most fundamental chess procedures you can begin taking a shot at immediately.

Use your pawns a lot. Do not just use them as sacrifices, and do not try to keep them away. Keep your opponent's power plays threatened or "trapped" using wise steps. At the same time, you brutally take your opponent's infantry—don't say, "Oh, it's just infantry." Make it a point to delete them.

Use your knights very early in the game—you may even want to create a trap in which your first move uses a knight instead of a pawn.

Then castle as quickly as time permits in the game.

Some chess masters say that a bishop must never capture you to catch a knight. Others say that the bishop should capture a knight whenever is possible, even if it means that the bishop will succeed with the next move. Take a look at both of these ideas and see which one of them works better for you as your style progresses.

Always try to adjust the items so that your opponent pays for the recording of one of your tracks. The cost for him should be high. I.E., If your opponent catches you, rookie, set him to immediately capture one of his power pieces, such as the bishop, knight, or rook (or queen, if possible). Don't let one of your pieces get caught when you turn your entire opponent into one.

As an unwritten rule, the best piece used to try to surprise the opponent's queen is a knight. Never sacrifice your queen unless you reach the queen. Never sacrifice the queen of your opponent—never renounce any of your pieces, except your queen.

Attack your opponent, but you can only make some moves that you think about in the first place. Be forceful, yet show restraint. The anxiety in chess is a snare of death.

As a rule, the most ideal approach to utilize your snares is to adjust them vertically. For instance, I.E., One is on the back street at D2, and the other at D6 simultaneously.

How Can You Play Better Chess?

Some say you should study the tactic and spend more than 50 percent of your study time. Others recommend using the options that maximize your performance—some things that will make you undergo comfortability. Some coaches recommend that you read your favorite grandma's games.

And we are just reaching the tip of the iceberg!

Undoubtedly, these experimental methods of studying chess will equip you with more knowledge about the game—they will give you more ideas and plans, enrich your tactical vision, and so on. To win the next game, you play hard.

However, when it comes to real-world games... onboard chess, it seems like all those great ideas are flying out the window! You don't realize how to apply them in your games!

If this sounds like it (and probably does), you'll probably love the following two tips and tricks to teach you how to play better chess!

Game Better 1 - Take Your Time!

Yes, good people, try and pay attention to this at first. You have to be more discriminating with the help you give to other people.

After all, chess is the game of a thinking man. It's not about the speed of your hands, and it's not about how fast you move or hit the clock. All this makes you think you're good at a game. All this goes well with how you can deal with the problems you face and how well you challenge the man on the board—the opponent.

And maybe you don’t have time to evaluate your situation; you can say that you think well during the game. Fuck! Even world-class players need hours to complete a chess game. Carlsen, Anand, Topalf—Their matches last from two to four hours. Sometimes even 7 hours of play in the London Classic 2010 (which I think is Cremnik-Carlsen).

If these children recognize that they have to spend time thinking and evaluating the situation in front of them, why not do the same?

Whether you play chess online, on the board, or a combination of both, get used to your time, especially in urgent situations, which you need to develop.

Game Better 2 - Your Opponent Has the Same Word in The Game!

Some chess players, those who are already logical, can apply the first tip. But chances are, they lose in the second case: consider the threats and opportunities of the opponent!

After all, your rival and yourself do have a say in the game. Don't just look at the ideas and opportunities available to you... but also consider what the other person has. Ignoring this point, the main reason why amateurs do not mix is the fact that the king puts on a simple pairing combination, allowing forks and other objects.

Your thinking process should be sufficient to shield all of your fundamentals—be aware of the possibilities available to your rival and yourself at the same time!

These strategic tips work on any chess set! Anything else does not matter; only the mentality!

Top Strategies

A key factor that makes the game royal and gorgeous is a chess strategy. You and your adversary will start unfolding new ways until you make the correct opening steps. Soon, the "true game of chess" starts, and you both will eventually be addicted.

All like researching the ideas behind Opening moves and discovering different tactics and methods that will lead the road to success. The middle game is, though, where players either win or give up. Strategies for the end game are very simple; either you succeed or fail.

Three Basic Opening Chess Moves

Let's look at three chess tactics for the Opening. The first thinking for a newcomer is "now what we are supposed to do? There are too many pieces on the board, and where do we start?" When you see the chessboard with all the chess pieces in their respective positions, let's look at three moves that will help you create a good and assured opening.

The first things you need to understand are that "power squares" are the four center squares, mostly because it's where the middle of the board is, and it's precisely where you have to set up a control core. For instance, it governs up to eight extra squares if the knight sits on the center square.

That is obviously a really powerful place.

However, if your knight is on the middle side of the square, it governs only four squares. Similarly, only in the middle of the board can other pieces still have a good influence. When you begin the game, the first thing to worry about is "center power." Shifting your pawns to the center squares of the board is the first step you can make. To help manage the game, it is always really necessary to try to bring pawns into the middle.

"Part creation" is the next critical phase. Just like a war, you have to note that the parts function for you. You have a job to give them. They are not satisfied if they only stay in the last segment, so they have no job to do.

This implies you have to think of a way to try to work with them and bring the last set of pieces out of the floor.

Typically, the knights seated beside the bishops are the next pieces that the players carry back. You should transfer a knight to "f3" and the other knight to "c3." Both knights move closer to the middle of the board to move the knights. You did not switch the knight to "h5" since it allows the knight the choice (instead of eight) to manage just four squares. Always be focused on the center of the board.

First, you must move the two bishops back, maintaining the attention in the middle of the board again and managing the squares of the center. Your next priority should be on the "defense of the leader" after making this Opening move, which is the main challenge of a chess game.

You, as a player, should consider the King to be a boy. We know that.

Now let us look at some other openings that are common.

Ruy Lopez

This opening technique is also regarded as the "Spanish opening in chess.”

There is not much brainpower needed for this technique. It is so popular that in fun games or competitions you can see it.

Just pretend you are playing a match against a buddy of yours. You play the white pieces, and your rival takes the black ones. Simple movements exist, including moving the white pawn (you) to e4 and moving the black pawn (your opponent) to e5. You are going to move the knight to f3 next, and the black knight will react by shifting to c6. You can also pin down the black knight with your bishop as the white player; this move places the knight (as well as the pawn at e5) in danger of being caught.

The most common black answer is to change their pawn to a6. To try to divert the bishop from assaulting the knight, this pass is completed. You have two choices, though, as the white player: either strike the knight or withdraw. The enemy can also catch the bishop with his/her pawn if you plan to strike the black knight.

The bishop could be pushed down to c4 or a4. It is recommended at this stage that you can retire to a4 with the bishop for two purposes.

It will hold the bishop secure from the assault of the black pawn; and at the start of the campaign, it pins your bishop to the knight you were originally looking for.

The opponent would have to think hard of other pawns and the knight with a move like this. He/she will instead switch his/her pawn to b5. After that, the white player can transfer the bishop back to b3. This is also a strong position since it helps the bishop to attack the F7 pawn of the enemy. With this move, if the adversary tries to move the pawn from a6 to catch the white bishop, with his/her pawn to a3, the white player will similarly capture the black pawn.

The black player can attempt to transfer the bishop to f6, however. The black player would be able to catch the pawn of the white player on e5 after this. In this case, and if the knight gets the pawn, then with the castling, the rook and Queen will step out to control the middle and get ready to strike the enemy. You can try to go for kingside castling.

You will move your knight until you move the King and catch the opponent's pawn on e5. Their King would be in "scan." For a White match, this is a nice condition. This is a traditional form of playing an opportunity for Ruy Lopez. The enemy would presumably transfer their bishop from this move to e7 and then the fortress. You would then be free to begin hitting the black pieces.

The Sicilian Defense

Let's look at the fundamentals of Sicilian safety. When most people see this Opening, they are surprised because it is one of chess's greatest opportunities. In the Sicilian Defense, there are potentially over ten variants that can be played. You will still discover something different, no matter how many times you play this strategy. Here, we can dig at this defensive strategy's raw basics.

Typically, by moving its pawn to e4 and taking control of center squares, White can start. The pawn on c7 would move to c5, the counter center, instead of transferring the black pawn to e5. White then follows on.

So, the white pawn shifts from d2 to d4; this must be caught for the black pawn, and the black pawn must be captured for the white pawn. Through this move, since the knight is out in the middle and the pawn, you can see that White has a greater gain. Today, the black player's main goal is to try to keep the white player from withdrawing his pawn from c2 to c4, which will establish a "Maroczy Tie."

The Maroczy Bind helps an enemy take better possession of the middle and improve their winning odds. The Black can shift the knight from g8 to f6 to avoid that from happening; this allows it easier to strike the pawn on e4 to deter the white player from transferring to Maroczy. Moving the knight from b1 to c3 is a standard move that the White would make.

The black player must switch his pawn from a7 to a6 to avoid the attack on the b5 square, specifically directed at the Black King. This move prevents the knight of the white player from moving to the square of b5. Also, the white bishop on f1 would still be prohibited from advancing to b5. It would be forced to switch to the back of c4 or elsewhere. The game will progress in some other direction from this stage.

The Italian Game or Giuoco Piano

This technique has been studied thoroughly for more than 300 years now. It is often referred to by people as Giuoco Piano. This word, however, especially refers to the play after a player moves the bishop to C5.

This Opening varies somewhat. Most chess grandmasters never choose it since it will (if not performed well) lead to a tie. This Opening, though, is deemed a successful one and assists in the creation of pieces. If the white player transfers his pawn from e2 to e4, shifting his pawn from e7 to e5 is a potential move for the black player. The Italian move is defined by the white player shifting their bishop to c4 (instead of b5) if the black transfers his knight from b8 to c6. The adversary would then switch from f8 to c5 their bishop. The best play for White would now be to shift their white pawn from c2 to c3 to be able to effectively continue the game.

The player will then transfer their knight to f6, making it simpler for the opponent's e4 pawn to be struck. Then the white player moves their pawn to d4, and the black player begins the castling of the kingside.

Offensive and Defensive Strategies

If you are unfamiliar with chess or an expert, the critical combination of offensive and defensive tactics is the most important thing to consider. To easily smash their rival, most novice players are eager to go on the offensive. Although it could be very amazing to pull this off, the possibility of such a fast offensive win (especially against seasoned players) is extremely unlikely. The biggest drawback of the all-out offensive is that any seasoned player can quickly see the open gaps in your defense. Expert players just sit back and wait for an error to be made by their rivals.

Think of chess as a battle in which you must protect your King and make attempts to seize your enemy's capital at the same time. An army with a little protective cover that bravely marches through the front line appears to easily suffer a crippling loss. This is the reason why beginning a game with a balanced approach is necessary. If you wish to succeed, it is fundamental to have both protective and offensive tactics up your sleeve. There are occasions when merely waiting for the enemy to launch an aggressive assault and simply noticing the holes in their strategy is the best offensive move. Instead of encouraging them to identify your vulnerabilities, this would give you the additional benefit of discovering gaps in their security.

Stages of the Game

Chess’s three basic phases are the Opening, the Middle Game, and the Endgame.

The Opening is the first few moves where you’re trying to control the center and develop your pieces.

The Middle Game is where you win your opponent’s pieces and continue controlling the center.

The Endgame is where you’re organizing your pieces to checkmate your opponent.

Chess Openings

Next, let’s talk about ways to open the game.

The Ruy Lopez

The Ruy Lopez is a great opening for beginners. Its key feature is it pins the Knight on c6, usually leading to an exchange of pieces.

The Italian Game

The Italian game is great for developing pieces, controlling the center, and developing an attack on Black’s f7 square.

The King’s Gambit

The King’s Gambit aims to control the center by inviting one of Black’s central Pawns to take a Pawn, which would lead it outside of the center. Giving up the Pawn is called a gambit. Ideally, white gives up the Pawn for a better position.

Middle Game

The Middle Game begins approximately when your pieces are fully developed and your King is protected. At this stage, positional play and tactics become an important focus of the game. There are three main types of tactics: Forks, Pins, and Skewers.

Forks

A Fork is when you attack two pieces at the same time. Forks can be accomplished with every piece, including Pawns and Kings. When you attack two of your opponent’s pieces, your opponent must choose which piece to save, the other piece you take.

Pins

A Pin is when you freeze or pin one of your opponent’s pieces between it and another of your opponent’s pieces of higher value. The King is usually the piece of higher value because moving the pinned piece would be illegal since putting your own King into check is not allowed.

Skewers

A Skewer is when you attack two pieces (typically of higher value) through each other as if it’s stabbing through them. For example, in the image below the White Bishop skewers a Queen and a rook.

Endgame

While early checkmates in the Middle Game and even the Opening are possible, checkmate typically occurs in the Endgame. Although checkmate is the most likely way the game will end, the game can end in the following ways.

- Checkmate
- Resignation
- Forfeit
- Draw
- Stalemate

Checkmate

The most likely result of the endgame is checkmate. Usually, the side with the most pieces will eventually win. Remember, checkmate occurs only when the King is in check and cannot legally get out of check.

Resignation

When a player believes he cannot win the game, he may also resign. A resigning player loses the game.

The rules for resigning vary whether you’re playing in a tournament or playing a casual game with friends or family. In a tournament, you may need to say, “I resign.” And, you may or may not have tip your King onto his side. Then, you may be expected to shake your opponent’s hand. When you play among your friends it may be enough to simply tip your King over.

Forfeit

If a player breaks house or tournament rules, such as being late for a match or even if his phone rings during a game, a player may forfeit, losing the game.

Other violations include touching a piece without moving it, clock violations, or other methods of using illegal moves or cheating.

Draw

A draw (not to be confused with stalemate) is when no one can win the game. A draw can occur in a few ways.

Threefold repetition—When the exact same position occurs three times in a row, a player may claim a draw.

Fifty Move Rule—When no player has moved a Pawn and no captures have been made in 50 moves, a player can claim a draw.

Impossibility of Checkmate—When neither player can possibly checkmate the other, the game is automatically a draw. Usually, this is the result of insufficient material, which is when the pieces on the board cannot possibly accomplish checkmate.

Insufficient Material—If any of the piece combinations below occur, the game is an automatic draw.

King vs. King

King and Bishop vs. King

King and Knight vs. King

King and Bishop vs. King and Bishop (if Bishops on the same color)

Mutual Agreement—Two players may also agree to a draw at any point in the game for any reason.

Stalemate

A Stalemate usually results in a draw (depending on the house or tournament rules), but by definition, it is when one player is not in check and cannot move the King or any other piece without putting himself into check.

How to Think

Thinking During the Game

There are two separate times where you need to have an ordered thinking plan—when it is your move and when it is your opponent’s move. Below is a recipe based on Kotov’s classic chess book, “Think Like a Grandmaster.”

On your move, Part A, your opponent just made his move and started your clock. Your thoughts should turn more to tactics at this time. This is when you are required to do brute force analysis and calculate different variations.

On your opponent’s move, Part B, your thoughts should be more about picking up clues in the position and working on a strategy based on your observations.

Of course, this process goes back and forth with each move. By following this simple recipe, your thoughts will be logical and well-organized. You will realize that this thought process overlaps thought processes that you use in other areas of your life to make decisions and will serve you well in your chess career.

Part A: Your Move

Here are the steps you should follow when it is your move:

1. Write down your opponent’s move

This is a quick, easy step. Although there is a tendency to look at what your opponent’s move does first, always write it down immediately; so you don’t forget, skip a move, and mess up your score sheet.

2. Ask, “What is he threatening?”

Pretend that you are your opponent and figure out what he is trying to do to you. When a master plays chess, he is actually playing against himself, looking for the best move for each player, analyzing as deeply as he can. Of course, your opponent can threaten more than one thing with his move. So, after you have answered this question, ask “What else is he threatening?” Answer this question, and repeat the process until you have all his threats.

This is a time-consuming step.

3. Determine your “Candidate Moves”

Candidate moves are moves that make sense before you analyze them. Think of candidate moves as moves that are on your “wish list” to make.

In a normal middlegame position, there are around thirty to forty legal moves. Of those, maybe five or six are candidate moves. A master cannot calculate fast enough to look at every single move like a computer can, so he focuses only on the candidate moves. You will have feelings toward your candidate moves—some will seem reasonable and some may seem a little crazy (but these moves might work and also need to be examined). Your goal is to identify the candidate moves in this step—you will analyze them later. Most chess players see a move they like and then try to prove to themselves that it is the correct move to make. The move is only a candidate move at this point.

Here are some examples of types of candidate moves:

- Capture and recapture moves—it doesn’t matter if you are trading a piece or a pawn

- All sacrifices and checks, if one of the kings is exposed

- Advancing a passed pawn

- Improving a piece’s position to a better square

- Ideas based on your observations from Part B: Your Opponent’s Move

Determining your candidate moves is a quick step.

4. Thoroughly analyze all candidate moves

This is the step that will use most of your brainpower and will take the longest amount of time.

You must now systematically analyze each of your candidate moves, to find the best move. This is a time management problem.

Remember that you will have feelings toward each of your candidate moves. In this step, you must look at them logically, without regard to your feelings.

It is okay to take a quick look at each candidate before you decide which order to analyze them in. This gives you the big picture of what you are looking at. If one of the moves is complicated, you may want to save it for last. If you start with the most complex candidate move first, you may end up wasting your time, especially if one of the simpler ones leads to an obvious advantage.

Go through each candidate move carefully, looking at all the branches of the analysis tree that your abilities will allow. The trunk of the tree is the mainline you are considering. A long series of captures can form the main trunk of the tree. Your opponent’s reasonable replies form the main branches of the analysis tree. Your possible responses to each of these form the next branches, and so on. After you finish one of the candidate moves, move on to the next one. Don’t re-analyze it again—unless you either have lots of time remaining on your clock or discover a tactic that you didn’t notice in a variation you have already completed.

As you analyze each branch of the tree, you will have to continually go back to the first move and retrace your steps through the main branches. Each time you move along the main branches to check out the smaller branches of the tree, the resulting positions should become clearer in your mind.

If you are short of time or playing a game with a fast time control, you will need to scale back on your analysis and go through this process more quickly, which, of course, increases the chances of making a mistake.

5. Apply Blumenfeld’s Rule

Think of all the chess games that you have ever lost. I’ll bet that well over half of them were because you made a really bad move that, in hindsight, was an obvious blunder.

Wouldn’t it be great if you could eliminate serious blunders from your game for the rest of your life?! Here is how you can do this:

After you have determined your best move from Step 4, do not make it. Write it very carefully and clearly down on your score sheet, hiding it from your opponent’s eyes with your hand. Then cover the move with your pen. With fresh eyes, double-check the move, looking for obvious blunders.

Kotov calls this step Blumenfeld’s Rule. Blumenfeld was a Russian master who was frustrated that he sometimes made obvious blunders and claimed that the same thing happened to the world’s best players. Blumenfeld wrote a postgraduate thesis on the psychological aspects of chess. Most grandmasters follow Blumenfeld’s Rule. If they think it is useful for them, it sure is necessary for the rest of us!

If your move is okay after you double-check it, make it. If not, go back to step 4.

Part B: Your Opponent’s Move

This is the time you can relax, take a step back, and look at the big picture. If you need to, this is the time to go to the bathroom. You now have time to get up and walk around to clear your head.

Now is the time to look at the entire board and figure out what each player should be trying to do. Be observant and pick-up clues in the position. Look at the forest, not the trees. This is the time to work out your strategy and figure out what your opponent’s strategy is.

To get a fresh perspective on the game, some players actually stand behind their opponent and look at the board from his perspective. Give it a try and see if it works for you. Personally, I get dizzy doing this, but it may work for you. The goal is to observe the position from all angles. Remember, you should always be on the lookout for new clues.

Here is a list of questions to ask to get a clear picture of the overall position. I will ask them from your perspective. You also want to ask them from your opponent’s perspective, pretending you are him. You will learn a lot about the position from a strategic point of view, see the big picture for both players, and then be able to focus your thinking accurately when it is your move again.

- Where does my king want to live? Kingside, queenside, or center? In the opening and middlegame, you are looking for a safe place. As you transition into the endgame you are deciding when it is safe to centralize your king. (King safety)

- Where do I want to expand? Kingside, queenside, or center? (Space)

- What is the best square for each of my pieces? Answer this question for each piece. How long does it take the piece to get there and can my opponent stop me? (Piece placement, piece activity, and time)

- Are the pieces lined up for a tactical pattern? For example, if a king and queen are lined up on the same diagonal, does the opponent have a bishop to pin or skewer them? If they are on the same file, is there a rook close by? Is there a back rank mate possible? (Tactics)

- Consider the pawn tactics. What are the possibilities for each of the pawns? First look at the pawn battles with only the pawn involvement, and then add in how the other pieces influence the pawn battles. Pawns can push, sit, or take. (Pawn structure and tactics)

- Who wants to trade? The player who wants to trade is usually either ahead in material, defending the position, or controls less space on the board. (Trading)

- Is my piece better than his piece? Compare each piece with its counterpart. If you have an isolated pawn, you may want to trade it for a regular pawn. If you have a good knight, you probably don’t want to trade it for a bad bishop. Do this for each piece. (Trading)

- Pretend everyone taller than a pawn trades for its counterpart. Who wins the king and pawn endgame? Don’t worry about how the queens, bishops, etc., can exchange for each other, just assume they do. Look at the board with only the kings and pawns. This gives a more global idea of which side wants to trade. It generally holds that each trade along the way would help the player who would win the king and pawn endgame. (Trading)

- What are my possible dreams and can I make them come true? This is where you can let your imagination run wild and test out ideas in your mind without touching the piece and being forced to move it. (Imagination)

- Who has the better position and is playing for a win? Always be objective in determining what you are playing for. (Sorting possible outcomes)

- Look at the position statically, then dynamically. Let’s say you are attacking the king. See how long it takes to break in without your opponent trying to stop you. If you can’t break in, this probably isn’t a good plan. If you can, now look for ways for your opponent to stop you. Are they practical? (Imagination and calculation)

- Are my candidate moves from my previous move still possible? Some may not be based on your last move. What new candidate moves may be possible for your next move? (Imagination)

Remember to look at this list from your opponent’s point of view too.

Common Mistakes of a Beginner

Chess Improvement Mistakes

Not all of us would like to be a Grandmaster. This will be a mission too daunting, but hit expert level or master level, why not?

IM Jeremy Silman, GM Igor Smirnov, NM Dan Heisman, Alexander Vaisman, and the prominent chess trainers and coaches all think it is highly doable with continued effort. Therefore, the question is, why did so few succeed?!

This is described in many ways. The most famous problem, however, is that many chess lovers try to grow chess too fast. Simpler, their chess improvement requirements are unfair! The dark side of chess is too difficult to change.

Parents of talented children want to see their children grow up immediately in chess. They wish fast returns on investment; including shares, tournament prizes, cash prizes, international masters and master's standards, etc.

"Since winning these Under-12 or Under-10 international chess tournaments, he leaves chess before he's 20! Do you know one of those children prodigies who in their twenties had an involved chess life stressed by their parents? I know none! I know none!"

Alexander Vaisman, the chess coach of Charkov, has come to be known as Ukraine's best trainer and added a lot apart from Boris Avrukh. Don't give me a quotation on that one now.

Basically, dangerous is attempting to improve chess too fast, and worse, it will ruin your passion for this game. Correct, there are a few shortcuts in chess improvement, such as focusing more on strategy, concentrating on your weak areas, etc. The problem with many chess players, including me, is that they don't want to improve it too fast, contributing to frustration for children and adults alike.

My own story and sad circumstance:

"After a year to hit 2200 ELO!" That was my aim after I had purchased a bunch of chess books. Compared to those who think that I will make this target 'modest,' This is my goal in a short time.

Yet, it's too far from reality. Long history short, things didn't work out my way. I'm still going to kick around at the local chess club for a year of research. While I was at the 'giving end,' I was still too far away from being the chess master I wanted.

The result:

I fell out of love with the royal game. A 2-year hiatus followed and turned me into a rusty player who would lose to someone else. YES, to someone who just shuffles the chess pieces; you eliminate the number 1 compensating and motivating factor when you force unrealistic chess changes on yourself, the fun of the game!

The race is won slowly and gradually—even in your attempts to improve the chess! Yeah, you can improve chess reasonably quickly by concentrating on those aspects of your play, which will give you the best spin in time and effort.

I'm going to say it right: the real question is how you can continually develop your chess strength. It's not so much the possession of certain information as a profound understanding. Hard work, in other words.

It is true that players in chess, including Jose Raoul Capablanca and Mikhail Tal, who were talented to learn, have reached the pinnacle of chess, and you can have the idea that, given your faith, you will accomplish the same achievements.

But admit that those two lazy champions did not have that kind of talent. If not, you would not be reading this. Still, instead, you would have been looking for an answer to a chess puzzle, or you would be plunged into an intermediate position, finding the complexities of the opening, and perhaps focusing on the endgame positions that resulted. However, no, you're reading this part, which you admit is still weak.

Of course, there are no definitive formulas, but it would be easy for a beginner to build one.

1. Interest

Have an interest in chess and retain it. It would help if you did not lose interest in chess as a profession (or secondary career, or just as a hobby you would like to continue with for the rest of your life).

Even if you can be the world chess champion, you probably can't stay in the world of chess if you lose interest in chess. Interest is the first ingredient to be considered and preserved throughout the remainder of your chess days.

Once you have lost interest, you will probably not boost your chess power. The present world chess champion, also Viswanathan Anand, wrote that he often tries to adjust his opening to keep his interests alive in chess.

Also, world chess champions are still human, and they have to do everything to keep their interest going so that chess play is not stalled. Based on my five years as a mentor, I have noted that interest in deciding whether one is likely to boost his chess power might be the biggest factor. As long as you have curiosity, even if you don't have a strong memory, you can play chess well.

2. Learn theories

Learn a book of chess theories. Learn the value of quickly deploying your forces at the start of the next war. Furthermore, learn how these opening and intermediate positions impact the transition from game to final positions.

Most of the books concentrate on a certain opening or variant of a reputable or at least playable opening line and describe the features of the opening: pawn structures, traditional strategies, typical maneuvers, and certain "methods" for exploiting the opening.

3. Practice.

There is the saying: "Theory is nothing but practice." No teacher is better than experience.

4. Want to play against greater resistance. What is Virgil's phrase? "Fortune favors the brave." You'd probably lose a game to a stronger foe, but then you'd learn the way he plays; but if you win, you may be happy (or not and still search for stronger adversaries). You win either way.

Compare this to stop stronger rivals and intimidate weaker ones. Lose a game for a poorer player, which is shameful and distracting. You're going to hate it. You're winning a game, and this isn't a big deal. It's just what the ego thinks if it's a big deal. You lose anyway.

5. Don't forget that life doesn't have anything to do with chess. Take a stroll around the forest. Breathe. Sleep. Eat. Don't forget your teeth need to be cleaned.

Chess for Positive Learning Environment

Many chess centers offer competent chess coaching, and not only the perfect young people, school children, but adults have been drawn to it.

Modern coaching institutions feature widespread coaching facilities, chess books, chess equipment stores, an internet café, a library, and a large controlled tournament room with the latest technology for broadcasting Live and TV tournaments.

There are very few coaching centers that link their company with schools and provide schoolchildren with facilities to get chess coaching to play professionally in different tournaments. These Chess Coaching Centers are renowned among international chess communities, and they set the norm for the design of chess centers.

The best way to compete in tournaments is in your respective countries becoming a Chess Federation member. When you enter, you are qualified to participate in major events. Your results will be included automatically in the National Rating List and National Rapid Rating List.

All participants are regularly informed of the tournament events via mail and email. If it's in Australia, the participants are eligible for the Australian Grand Prix incentive awards. We can't shake the warm feeling from the chess world.

Chess programs are developed for any school. Children who study, play chess, and get higher IQs are outstanding in reading, memory, language arts, and math. Chess improves its thought style and makes it more original and imaginative. They build an ability to solve problems and understand how they can make decisions that can have a significant effect on their lives in a short time.

It is for talented children and encourages the underprivileged to work harder and deliver outstanding results. Chess improves its concentration, strategic plans, and critical decision-making. The best coaching centers welcome both girls and kids irrespective of their natural or socio-economic backgrounds.

Although many chess institutions could help schools to include chess in their curriculum or even in mathematics as an addition, other institutes are excellent in formulating chess as extracurricular activities that can be learned during special activities.

There are so many options to choose from for school children. For those children who find it hard to pay, similar children could pool themselves, bringing coaching costs per child. This form of payment lets the coaching association provide well-qualified chess coaches.

Nobody needs coaching in chess without taking part in competitions and numerous tournaments? Expert coaching involves motivating students to engage in chess tournaments at schools or competing with other schools in the area.

Interestingly, some machines pairing programming are suitable for school running tournaments that introduce more participation in chess and provide new regional opportunities for students.

Objectivity is the way chess can be improved. I'm pretty sure all of you would agree, particularly in over-the-board situations. It would be best if you were rational about your winning odds when you calculate or evaluate a line or risk unnecessary expansion—playing for a win that was not there.

You know you're 'playing for a loss, and it's too late when you do.

On the other side, you don't want your chances to be underestimated. Suppose you are not realistic in measuring and valuing the variation. In that case, you might begin to cower—inevitably leading to a draw or even a default (because you're so afraid of the odds that there were not). You might have a winning place.

Indeed, objectivity is an important element in developing chess!

However, there is another aspect of chess objectivity—it's an out-of-board aspect that has a considerable impact on chess improvement. Many amateurs were guilty, if you will, of breaking this 'rule,' and you should make sure that you are not one if you want to play better chess.

A terrible chess improvement mistake—Their power to play is not objective.

There are many players out there who feel that they should be higher ranked. For a variety of reasons, that is unfortunate, and that's what I've been guilty of. My ideas were as outrageous as "in one year or so, I might be a Kasparov. If I know all the openings and play regularly in tournaments, etc."

Now there's the other side of the spectrum: to be pessimistic or not optimistic about your power to play. Again, a psychological condition has many victims, which becomes prophecies that fulfill themselves. If you don't know your skills in chess, you're too cautious when you're traveling.

You can accurately calculate the line with your pessimism, but you can go back to it, talk over and over, and make a new move (always a horrible mistake!). Too questionable is awful for your advancement in chess. That isn't very good for any sport. You're not a Grandmaster, but you and your chess play abilities are only what you can trust at the end of the day.

Brilliant Sacrifices

In the minds of some beginners, the game of chess is like any military game—kill them all! Well, that might be a good idea, but sometimes you don’t have to capture every chess piece on the board to win. Just like in real life, some tactical moves do not involve eliminating the entire opposing army.

We’ll go over that in more detail in this one. Sacrificing chess pieces may seem counterintuitive to some players. Why do you have to allow the enemy to take your men? Some may ask.

However, if you dig deeper into its tactical advantages, there is a return on investment for every sacrifice that is made in this game. There are basically four reasons why chess players sacrifice their pieces in the game:

(1) Obtain key positions on the board for either dominance or better maneuverability;

(2) Gain material—you may lose some pieces but, in the end, you end up exposing your opponent’s weaknesses and capture more than you lost.

(3) Get a checkmate—you may have lost one or two pieces as sacrifices in the game but in the end, you open up the enemy king and get a checkmate.

(4) Save the king—the fourth reason why people sacrifice material is to save their king. The king is under attack and the only way to get him out of harm’s way is to allow one of your chessmen to get captured. It’s a loss but at least you get to fight another day, so to speak.

If you sacrifice your chess pieces in the middle of a game (sometimes right at the opening, if you consider gambits) then you are making these moves truly brilliant. Now, you can classify sacrificial moves in this game under two categories.

Two Types of Sacrifices

There are two types of sacrifices that you can make in a game of chess. The first one is forced while the other one is a deliberate sacrifice. Forced sacrifices fall under reason number four. These are the types of sacrifices you never want to make unless you really have to. Don’t be afraid to make these sacrifices, especially if doing so will turn the tide in your favor. For instance, you may lose a queen to save the king but if you gain the momentum and advantage by doing so, then do it.

The second type of sacrifice in chess is the deliberate sacrifice—they are the ones that fall under reasons 1 to 3 above. Remember that you are looking to deliberately sacrifice your chess pieces but you get something better in return. You have to weigh the tactical advantages in the end.

Examples of Sacrifices

In this game, getting a better position is a huge advantage. Sometimes you have to sacrifice one piece (a pawn for instance) just so you can secure a significant positional advantage.

Elephant Gambit:

In this example, black intends to sacrifice the pawn in d5 so that the queen can take a positional advantage. A deeper study of gambits will help you understand how to take advantage of positions on the board in order to win a game. Note that you can also make sacrifices in the middle game just to secure certain positions on the board that will be beneficial to you.

Danish Gambit Accepted

The said opening falls under Danish Gambit Accepted and the positions are illustrated above. In this opening, white sacrifices 2 pawns so that he can develop his bishops rapidly. Black on the other hand gains 2 pawns but has made the mistake of making too many pawns moves at the beginning of a game. That’s the time when you can capitalize.

Another reason to sacrifice chess pieces is to gain material and hopefully to win the game. In the classic chess match in Tal-Parma, Bled, 1961; Tal (white) sacrifices his queen by taking black’s knight. See the illustration below:

By sacrificing his queen, taking black’s knight (QxNf5), white now can move his knight on the g-file to e6 (Ne6) thus forking the queen and king along with the rook since black used his pawn on the g-file to capture white’s queen.

Tal eventually forced Parma to resign to prevent the loss of more material. Tal basically won this game by sacrificing a queen. He gained material and positional advantage. Eventually, he won the game because of one powerful and crucial move.

That’s the power of sacrificing a chess piece. It’s a tactical chess move that is risky, of course, but it is one that can take your opponent by surprise and win you the game. It just takes careful planning. Note that you can execute a sacrifice pretty much any time in a chess game.

Final Chess Theory

If all the chess knowledge can be combined into one theory, how interesting is that? Everyone wants to know that "final" theory, and with this knowledge, defeat everyone in chess. Who could beat you? You have the ultimate method of all.

But is there such a thing as the best move in the world? I doubt, first of all, the question is straightforward. There must be another condition that may limit this measure to a certain extent. By asking this question, we can do this: "What is the best move in this situation?" Here, we added a new parameter—being more specific (i.e., "in this situation"), we added a new dimension that could be used to measure another.

We often work with linear reasoning: "If this happens, it will happen." Unfortunately, if this is an argument with which you can solve a problem, there is even a mathematical problem in it. If you are asked for a solution, you will only be able to conclude that the answer to the question is infinite. "If that happens, then it will happen. And if it happens, it'll happen after that; after that..."

So, what is the best thing to do? Add another parameter. Before asking: "What is the best move in this situation?" Ask yourself, "What position do I want to reach?" In other words, answer the question back.

"It's an opportunity I want to reach, so I'm looking forward to it." Knowing what to do is the right piece to move in this direction. This logic may illustrate the ambiguity of precision mathematics, but this is a misconception. It makes the decision-maker feel clear. By setting a clear objective, one can calculate a limited sequence of movements, even if the chess's assessment of the situation is based on mental judgment.

Basic knowledge takes precedence over calculation. It is impossible to calculate without knowing the variables. You can't figure what he doesn't know. Where the problem of information is involved, this fact is undeniable. One of the visible shreds of evidence of this is that even the most potent players do not trust pure calculation. The current chess champion, Viswanathan Anand, is an "intuition" and not a "calculation" player, as well as a lot of history chess legends and other compelling modern chess players.

So, what does all this say? In his book, Danlition writes:

"The supreme chess theory is an attempt to build a solid foundation on which to do more analysis to reach the first goal of a partial solution to playing chess. From mid-2004 and 2008, the daily computerized analysis was performed, and the final chess theory was written slowly. During this time, a network of six computers running the Fritz family of computer chess programs is calculated continuously for about an hour. Each previous round was based on fundamental analysis, based on which future analyzes would be performed..."

However, this can take a long time. This method is prolonged (compared to the life span of the human). Why is that?

Well, the underlying assumptions are:

1. From each council position, there is an average of 40 legal removals.

2. An average chess game has about 30 semi-moves (60 strokes or 60 "halves").

Therefore, there are approximately 40 ^ 60 (40 to 60 power or 40 times 60 times itself), which is about 10 ^ 96 from the possible final position that the computer should check.

If the machine is capable of evaluating definitive areas of 10 ^ 18 seconds (current networks are not quite close to its capacity), then 10 ^ 96 positions divided by 10 ^ 18 views per second 10 ^ 78 seconds or approximately 10 ^ 70 years.

Finding the "final" chess theory is impossible with finding a solution for all chess situations (in mathematics, this is called "computing force calculation"). I think "the final chess theory is this: the final chess theory is nothing." Why? Because the "final" theory that explains chess is not a theory but objective truth.

How to Master the Secrets of The Masters?

Chess is said to be an art and not just a game. Whether you are an expert, a strategy teacher, a technical teacher, or just a beginner, there is always something new and creative you can try. The secret is to be able to detect your opponent's movements in excellent, sharp, and fast planning. This is the beauty of chess. It never gets boring because there is always this challenge. The diversity of movements in the game is almost endless, which is not the case in most table games.

In chess, there is no luck, good luck, or bad luck. Chess refers to skill, concentration, maneuverability, and what we call intuition. The ability to think and plan for your competitors is essential.

The old Greek phrase, "you know yourself," applies a lot to chess. Perhaps I should state the game, yet the player. Know yourself; A great comprehension of your identity is essential for turning out to be what you need to be. Right now, to turn into a top player. However, being the best player does not just mean making decisions, but knowing how to make decisions; why you make them, and how brave you are! You need more than luck to succeed in the affiliate business. Don't rely on the game or anything else. If you are closed, you will lose it! Of course, some like to play defensively, and that's fine.

When moving, the focus should be on the foot position. Most of the field games are played here, and you have to play defensively at least for a while. Be vigilant and look for openings that you can cross. Try not to change parts as much as possible. Block and wait. Sooner or later, you will have a chance to continue the attack! If you can live with the idea of a chance to win, then let your game become aggressive, strengthening your tracks. If you play this kind of strategy, you have to put your hope in the knights.

Here, you can see how your knights can create an open space for bishops and their queens. Fun can be used by infantry to attack. This strategy is often used successfully by many chess "gurus," and you will follow this wisely. That said, you should try to play the game only in the way your character does. Not all of us are the same—some people like sweet, others like bitter. If you are a risky person, such as living on the edge and enjoying the thrill of the adventure, then be yourself!

Make a battle opening move and try to destroy the center of the board. Don't worry about replacing the parts, but be careful to keep the rook and queen later.

This particular method by which someone aggressively changes parts is called the "butcher's method." This opponent forces you to leave your king and then attacks you by attacking where the king is.

My recommendation is to rehearse the nuts and bolts of chess in an ideal manner conceivable and play your game however much as could be expected, playing increasingly experienced rivals. The familiar adage "iron hones iron" is never more exact than chess.

Study the popular techniques played by the extraordinary chess bosses and consider their reasoning procedures. At that point, go out and do likewise on the off chance that you can!

It wasn't worth less than your full potential. Don't forget to develop your style, movement, methods, and strategies. Take this into account, if you know yourself—and believe in yourself—you will have a perspective on your opponent. This is the key to winning the chess game.

Who Plays Chess, And Why?

A great variety of people plays chess for a variety of reasons, and it enjoys the accompaniment that comes with it, the skill and logical thinking involved, which is that anywhere you can play. It is entertaining and very challenging.

The most crucial advantage of chess is that it allows you to make new friends and meet interesting people, no matter what age you are or where you live, you will never be alone if you can play. Being popular with retirees allows you to practice your brain and be alert because you have free time, but you don't need it much physically.

Like many other games, this is a great way to swell after a hard day at work and reduce stress. Concentrating and thinking about strategies makes all the thoughts about that day happen and is a manifestation. You have a soothing and soothing specialty. "Improving your thinking skills can help you make a decision that you have previously felt is impossible to control," he said.

There are chess clubs all over the country that draw people from all walks of life and go online, and you will find a forum for this game where people with similar thoughts have the chance to get together and share strategies, and I'm talking about techniques they love. When you travel, bring a chess set with you and make sure you won't be too alone—people will see the board or start a conversation or introduce you to a game, and you will soon have company, and you can even get yourself a new friend or two!

Conclusion

After reading this book about Chess for Beginners, my mind and interest were sparked. I found that everyone, no matter what their age, could benefit from this book. Before I started reading the book, I had very little interest in chess and only knew the rules of checkmate and how to move the pieces. After reading this book, I could not stop playing. Not only have my skills expanded in chess, but also in mathematics. This is a great book I would recommend for anyone just learning chess or someone who has played chess since they were little. This book was engaging, fun, and full of useful information. After reading this book, I am convinced that if everyone played chess, in addition to other benefits, such as better memory and patience, the world would be a much more peaceful place. I truly enjoyed reading this book and would recommend it to anyone that wants to expand their knowledge of chess, or anyone that has an interest but is just not sure where to start.

This book on Chess for Beginners has taught me many things. One thing it has taught me is the history of chess. Like how The Persians introduced chess to the modern-day game, this book has taught me a lot in a very short amount of time. Also, just by reading the book, I have learned more about the game than I would have if I were to watch a two-hour video on YouTube or read countless articles. If you are one of those people who have never played chess before, this book is a great way to get introduced to the world of chess. Even if you are an experienced player, this book can be a helpful resource because there is just so much factual knowledge in this book that can help you become better at the game. After reading this book, I think that it would be impossible for me not to start playing chess every day. It has done so many things for me and has improved my life in many ways. I can’t wait to see how my knowledge of the game will expand, and how I will improve my skills. Also, this book is just really fun to read. It’s written in a way that makes you want to continue reading because the fascinating facts are just so interesting. I am very pleased with this book and believe that anything you get out of it will be worth your time.

For a lot of people, playing chess is a hobby they can do in their spare time. Others have grown up and have been playing chess since they were little. If you fall into the former category, there’s a good chance that you may not know how to play chess properly. This book is going to teach you everything you need to know from the very beginning: how to move your pieces, how to checkmate your opponent, and where each piece will be on the board at each turn. The better you understand the basics of chess, the more fun it will be for you.

Chess Openings

The Complete Manual with Theory, Fundamentals and Strategies for Beginners. Build Your Repertoire with Explained Whites’ and Blacks' Openings and Win the Game

Copyright © 2021 Independently Published

All rights reserved.

No part of this book may be reproduced, or stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without express written permission of the publisher.

ISBN-13: 9798709819245

Table of Contents

Introduction

Chapter 1. Key Concepts to Chess Openings

Chapter 2. Things to Do After the Chess Opening

Part One: For Beginners

Chapter 3. Chess Tactics for Beginners

Chapter 4. Strategies and Techniques

Chapter 5. Openings

Chapter 6. Chess Tactics

Chapter 7. Chess Strategies

Chapter 8. Tips for a Successful Opening

Chapter 9. Tips on the Best Way to Play Chess Better

Part Two: For Intermediates

Chapter 10. Grand Master Tips

Chapter 11. Tips to Accelerate Your Learning

Chapter 12. White's First Moves

Chapter 13. Other White’s First Move

Chapter 14. First Moves—Blacks

Chapter 15. Other Black’s Moves First

Conclusion

Discover the WePlayChess Series!..............................................137

Introduction

Chess Opening book is about the basic principles in the chess game. The masters have proven that the listed opening strategies can be applied to many different chess situations.

The objective of white is to play on his strengths, while black tries to play on his piece advantage. Both sides try to establish their central pawns and kingside pawn structure while preventing the opposing side from doing so. Every opening strategy should be employed with caution as a disadvantage in time or a careless move can result into a quick defeat. A rook and bishop, with open files for attacks, can be very effective on the queen side of the chessboard.

The opening strategy in chess is the most important part of the game.

Just a game of chess with no opening strategy can result into a quick defeat. Every opening strategy should be employed with caution as a disadvantage in time or careless move can result into a quick defeat. The most respected masters have proven that their opening strategies have been well established and can be applied to many different chess situations.

For instance, the Sicilian Defense is a very popular opening strategy for black pieces, while the Ruy Lopez is the white pieces' preferred move. The Sicilian Defense will drive any white piece to the queen side, while the Ruy Lopez will place all black pieces in the center of the board.

The quickest way to win a game using this opening strategy is by using a quick checkmate attack in fewer than 20 moves. Several openings have precedence over others and are usually referred to by their original names.

Many times, the move a player will make in the opening will determine the success of his play. The fast development of all pieces is a good idea, but this can be done in several ways. For instance, first, develop your knights to their proper squares so as to support your bishops and rooks with their presence on the board. After that, develop your bishops and castle them on an open file or diagonal so as to have more mobility of pieces for attacks. It is very important to keep up with developing your castle early on as well. After that, you should move your king to a winning position as to not allow the opponent to castle early on. This is very important because if you can attack the opponent's king before he can castle, then it will ultimately make him lose the game. When attacking, it is important for one's pieces to support each other in many different ways. If they do this effectively and efficiently during the whole game, then they will have a better chance of winning.

Making a move that avoids all tactical traps, and is useful in the long run, can be very taxing on an individual's brain. It is best to avoid these kinds of moves because they are too costly. Usually, players who make careless moves lose the game because they are heavily criticized for making such a bad move.

The chess openings are divided into three categories:

The first few moves in the game are called opening moves because they set the tone for the rest of the game. Opening moves are not fixed, and there is no one right way to play them. Usually, players have a preference for a certain move or series of moves at the beginning of a game. They will choose it again and again until another player beats them using other opening strategies.

A chess opening is the group of initial moves of a chess game. Recognized patterns of play are mentioned as openings and have been named. For example, the Sicilian Defense or Ruy Lopez. The opening is considered to be the most important phase of a game since it sets up strategic objectives and goals for both players that will probably determine the outcome of the game.

Opening Strategy has prevailed as an opening play for white and black pieces. Masters have proven that their opening strategies can be applied to many different chess situations.

The opening phase in chess is characterized by the opening moves of White and Black, which usually ends in a pawn race. The royal game begins in this phase.

Key Concepts to Chess Openings

Why Focusing on the Opening Matters?

In order to understand what's going on with the opening moves, there are a few important ideas we will need to cover first. They include control of the center, development, pawn structure, open and closed positions, king safety, and transposition.

For the purposes of this book, we will be using the standard algebraic notation for chess based on this chessboard diagram:

According to this nomenclature:

- Pawn = cell
- Knight = N
- Bishop = B
- Queen = Q
- King = K
- Rook = R
- Castle Kingside = O-O
- Castle Queenside = O-O-O
- Capture = x
- Check = +
- Checkmate = #
- En passant = ep.
- Promotion = c1= Q
- Fantastic Move =!
- Dubious Move =?

Control of the Center

One of the goals of any quality opening should be to gain control of the board's central squares. We mainly focus on the d4, d5, e4, and e5 squares, although c4, c5, f4, and f5 are also important squares to consider as they help control those four most important squares. The classic approach to the opening is to occupy these squares directly with pawns and to support them with your pieces. The more modern idea is to indirectly control the center with pieces, leaving pawns in a safer position and slowly developing. For the purposes of this book, we are going to be taking a look at classical approaches as they best illustrate the principles of controlling the center and developing quickly.

By controlling the center of the board with our pawns, we not only gain space to develop our pieces behind our pawns but will limit the mobility of our opponent, hopefully causing them to have to choose a less ideal place for their pieces in order not to fall behind in development. We will cover development more, but for now, just understand that another goal in the opening is to get as many of your pieces into action as possible while trying to stop your opponent from doing the same when possible.

Imagine for a moment you are white, and you have a pawn on d4 and e4, and your opponent hasn't moved yet. Can you see how your pawns create a wall blocking black's access to the center? White is attacking all of the black’s side central squares: c5, d5, e5, and f5. If black were to try to occupy any of those squares, white can either defend the attacked piece to keep up the wall or exchange whichever they prefer. The point is that white can choose what happens, and black has to play within that understanding. Now in a real game, White doesn't get to move twice before black does, only once, but the principle is exactly the same. Because white has an ever so slight advantage by choosing the first move, they will always start the game with a small space advantage and time advantage (called a tempo) over black.

It's time we take a look at the development and how to get our pieces moving effectively.

Development

When it comes to developing chess pieces, it must be said: Don't move the same piece twice without a good reason. Of course, this doesn't mean to pass up on great opportunities should they arise, nor neglect your defense if moving that piece is your best option. But generally speaking, you should aim to develop all your other pieces first before moving that same piece a second time if you can help it. If anyone has ever told you that you shouldn't bring your queen out early in chess, this is one of the key reasons why. The queen is incredibly powerful and, as such, is also very valuable. While it might be tempting to swing out your queen for a dramatic check early, chances are you are leaving your opponent with a valuable target to attack while also developing his own pieces. If you have to spend time running away while your opponent is making moves with his pieces, that actually means you are falling behind. For these reasons, most people develop their minor pieces first (Knight and bishop) and use their major pieces in supportive roles (Rook and Queen).

In a typical opening from white, say:

- e4

This move is the start of many famous chess lines and is fantastic for several reasons. First, this move directly stakes a claim on the center by giving white control of the d5 and f5 squares. If you remember, those are two of the center squares that are very important for the opening. Also, moving the pawn out of the way leaves white with several great options for turn 2. White can develop either Knight to great squares in Nc3 or for the queenside or Nf3 and Ne2 for the kingside. White could instead choose to deploy his light-colored bishop anywhere along the a6-f1 diagonal. Finally, there is still the option to move another pawn, such as the popular King's Gambit.

For black, a typical response might be:

- e4 c5

The Sicilian Defense, a popular answer by black to white's most common first move. This move stakes a claim in the center by occupying the c5 square and controlling the central d5 square white might have been eyeing otherwise. If you remember the position where white had a pawn on both e4 and e5, it created a real blockade for black to contend with. This simple flanking pawn maneuver gives black control of that central square by stopping that d5 move from being played right away. Additionally, this move gives the black Knight a great square on c6 to occupy when it wants to. The c pawn has already moved ahead, so the Knight won't have to worry about getting out of the way for a future pawn advance.

Another general principle in the opening is to castle early. We will touch on this topic more in King Safety, but your opening moves should generally work towards preparing you for the castle.

By following these steps, you will be making moves that have a purpose.

Pawn Structure

Again, let’s imagine that white has pawns arranged on a2, b3, c4, d5, e5, f4, g3, and h2. These diagonal formations of pawns are called pawn chains. Notice how each pawn behind defends and supports the pawn ahead of it. Pawn chains can be as small as two pawns chained together in a diagonal. These are power formations to use in order to give yourself a strong defensible position to play behind.

The next concept to consider with pawn structure is called pawn islands. Consider the same position as above, but let’s remove the c4 and f4 pawns, meaning white has pawns on a2, b3, d5, e5, g3, and h2. Notice how white's pawns are separated into three separate groups? This means white now has three pawn islands. In general, the more pawn islands you have, the weaker your pawns will be as they will be stretched thin and unable to defend one another.

An isolated pawn is a single pawn as an island with no pawns on either side. Generally, isolated pawns are considered a weak point in the defense as only pieces can ever defend them. Of course, there are always exceptions, but generally, isolated pawns are something you hope to avoid.

Double Pawns or even triple pawns can occur, which is just a fancy name given when two or even three pawns end up on the same file. In most cases, these pawns are considered a weakness as the pawns on the same file cannot help protect each other.

A backward pawn is one that cannot be safely advanced and is behind all pawns of the same color. In a hypothetical position with white with a pawn on e4 and black with pawns on d6 and e5, the black pawn d6 would be backward if there is no pawn on the crank, as it cannot safely advance, or white's pawn will capture it on e4.

Finally, a passed pawn is a pawn that no enemy pawn can stop, as it has “Passed” their attack range. In a position with white having a pawn on e4, it would be a passed pawn if no pawn on either the d or f file could stop it from advancing to promotion.

Open and Closed Positions

Open positions arise in openings where central pawns are exchanged, and the center becomes more accessible. As the name suggests, these positions are filled with open spaces and long diagonals. As such, rooks, bishops, and the queen all shine in these kinds of games, as they can best take advantage of the spaces.

Closed games are games where the pawns are still on the board, usually locked in potential exchange, going many layers deep. These games are highly tactical and involve thinking many steps ahead in exchanges to determine who the potential victor would be in a big exchange in the center. The theme of closed games is very often maintaining the tension, as many times, the person who gives in to the pressure and attacks first comes out behind. In a closed position, knights tend to shine a bit more as they are capable of maneuvering themselves around the tight battlefield better than most other pieces.

King Safety

It was mentioned before, but for the most part, your opening moves should work towards enabling you to castle. If you develop pieces on both sides of the board before castling your king, you are opening yourself up to potentially devastating all-in attacks at very early turns in the game. The most severe example of this is called the fool’s mate, and it is the fastest way to lose a game of chess. If you were curious:

- f3 e5

- g4 Qh4

However, it doesn't need to be as extreme as that in order to run into problems. Many exciting professional chess matches were decided by gutsy sacrifice attacks made against a king stuck in the center of the board. Such is chess, but it is always best to start by keeping the defense of your king in mind for beginners.

This ties into the last point on king safety, and that is the pawns around your king. It is rarely a good idea to advance the three pawns in the corner you want to castle unless you really have to. Whenever you advance one of these pawns, you are creating a tiny weakness in the defenses around your king that your opponent can later try to use to attack you.

Transposition

Many openings have similar elements to them and can be reached in different move orders. Moving from one opening into another is called transposition and is one of the ways great players can stay flexible in their opening moves while sticking to the same overall opening plan. In response to your opponent’s moves, it might be preferable to change your move order, but that doesn't mean you have to go off into uncharted territory. Look for ways to transpose from your deviation back into a position you are familiar with. This is how the best players can play chess in positions they are unfamiliar with.

Things to Do After the Chess Opening

What is next? We looked at the various significant openings that you could use in a game of chess. Now, let's have a fast discussion about what to do after those first crucial moves.

Measure #1 Build Your Pieces

The very first guidance would be to build pieces quickly. This concept involves memorizing your distinct opening tactics literally and understanding which place is advantageous to every piece. You should be already using a game program if you would like to get a fantastic beginning to your game rather than going to it with no strategy.

Measure #2 Control Your Center

The next thing to do would be to control the center of the board. As you understand, it's very important to balance the board at all times. At no time in the game, should you stay confused about your pieces and their advancement? The best way is to put your pieces in the center of the board, and that is what's going to determine the way your game will move forward.

There are two types of scenarios that can arise if you want to garner control within the center of your board. One is called the open center and the other one is a closed center. The open center is just one at which you and your opponent both have an equal chance to control the center, which means you've got to swiftly move all your significant pieces into the center; this is going to make certain you get fantastic control over the board.

The closed center is one at which the opponent has put all of her or his significant pieces and it's hard for you to move any of your pieces ahead. This isn't a good situation and it's vital that you do your very best to prevent it by producing a puzzling situation for your opponent. You have to make these scenarios for your opponent but if they do not come around, then you have to quickly re-strategize. Attempt to search for an opening and strategize ways to take charge of the center when possible.

Aside from these two, there’s another situation called the lively center. The lively center is just one where the two players are not certain of who actually holds the center of the board. In this circumstance, it's crucial to find out who has the faster route to get control of the center and you can do it by checking whose crucial pieces have a positional advantage.

Measure #3 Safeguard Your Own King

The next thing to do would be to quickly move your king to safety. As you understand, your king is the main part of the game. At no time should it be vulnerable or exposed. For this, you need to immediately move him into a secure location. But do not forget that the move ought to be significant. Do not only move him in a way that threatens his place. If he's secure wherever he is, then let him stay there.

It pays to the castle early in the game as you can normally place your king in a secure place. For this, you have to purposely move all of the pieces that lie between the king and the rook and exchange their positions, which is just another reason why the theory of Lopez’s opening is really common. One other important concept is to ship an entourage with your king.

This means that you move a couple of safety pieces together with your own king in the event you would like to move him from the usual spot. Therefore, in the event that you move the king ahead, your next move will be to put something in front of him. This way, you protect your pawns and have the opportunity to help them stay safe. Even if your opponent kills the shield, your king could easily kill the other person's piece.

However, make certain you understand what you're doing because it might be a snare. The opponent will purposely kill your shield to excite you to make a mistake so think it through once you put a defensive piece before your king. Another benefit of a historical castle is growing your pieces. This can allow you to move them around rather than getting them in their own place.

Many new players dread moving their large pieces like bishop and knight believing they'll endanger them but if they aren't moved, then you are going to endanger your pawns and slow down your offensive assault. This way recalls it's better for you to move them onto the board when possible; this can also be called developing them.

Measure #4 Focus on Quality

The next important issue is to focus on piece quality. It follows that you concentrate on the worth of this item before moving it on the board. Each piece has distinct values, as you probably already know, and you need to set them on the board in this way in which the values have been spread on the board rather than being lumped all together.

Do not fall to the pawn-moving snare early on. That is where most novices fail. They begin moving the pawns around and do not realize it is very important to move the other pieces too. Bear in mind that a piece that isn't active on the board is just as good as not having the piece at all. You have to steer clear of this error and begin moving your other pieces early on. As was mentioned before, you have to move your pawns into the center of the board.

Part One: For Beginners

Chess Tactics for Beginners

Strategic Implications

The first thing you need to determine before you make almost every move is where you have a tactical opportunity on the board. If there aren’t any, your next move will be influenced by strategic considerations, i.e., efforts to achieve positional advantages that could end up being potential tactical opportunities. One aim of the strategic play is to end up with the kind of positions that allow for tactics to play out.

It has been found that good strategic play usually leads automatically to opportunities for tactical wizardry. The reasons are all about what good tactical play can accomplish. The main objective is to expand the mobility and power of your pieces. A rook on a file that has no pawns is free to move and is therefore very powerful. As such, when you take a piece into perspective and analyze the quality of its position, determine the number of squares it controls. Having more developed pieces on the board will provide much more of a threat, especially the ones that have been developed to your opponent’s side of the board. The second goal of the strategic play is the reverse and is quite obvious: Limiting the mobility and power of your opponent. The fewer squares he has the chance to attack, the higher your probability of positioning your pieces in the same place.

These principles are related to tactics in palpable ways. When your pieces have the chance to move freely and attack more squares, they have a higher chance of ending up in positions that cause trouble to your opponent’s pieces. You also get the chance to coordinate them in such a way that two to four pieces can be combined to bear on a sector. Realize that a single piece does not offer much threat when it ventures into enemy territory by itself. On the other hand, when you restrict or block your opponent’s pieces in their movement, you achieve more than preventing them from causing you trouble. They become vulnerable to tactical strikes since they provide your opponent with limited good options of responding to the threats, captures, and checks that you make.

The Double Attack/Forks

The Double Attack, as the name suggests, is a tactical approach that involves moves that attack two enemy pieces at the same time.

In the diagram above, Black’s rook and king have been forked by White’s Knight; meaning that it has attacked them simultaneously. Starting with the Knight is an especially common and vicious forking tool. For starters, it can threaten a variety of targets. The Knight has an approximately similar value as the bishop and is, therefore, less valuable than the queen or the rook. As such, a Knight can serve to attack unprotected pieces, as well as to be traded for enemy rooks and queens, whether or not they have protection.

In addition, the Knight is associated with a unique pattern of movement that leads to two advantages: The Knight is able to attack other pieces without worrying about being captured by them, and it also allows him to jump and offer threats that are easy to overlook. In order to recognize Knight forks, you need to become consciously aware of the relationships between your opponent’s pieces and your knights, as well as between your pieces and his Knights. As the Knight progresses forward, it moves closer and closer to forking targets, most importantly the King. Realize that as soon as your Knight reaches the 4th rank, it can attack the back rank of your opponent, including the King, with one move. This is why it is important to plant your Knights at the central and advanced squares.

Fool’s Mate

This is also referred to as the “2 move checkmate,” and is the fastest possible checkmate in chess. A good example involves moves that lead to the following position:

Black and White can also make the following moves: 1. f3 (1. G4e62. F3Qh4#)1… (e62. G4Qh4#). Unlike some of the other quick checkmates, this tactic is rarely seen. The strategy is initiated by a weak opening move by White. It does little effort playing 1. f3 to control the center of the board.

Black responds with 1. … e5, which is a strong response. Black gains a very significant amount of control at the center of the board, and enables him to develop both the queen and the dark-squared bishop, with an aim of making a move to h4 in order to take advantage of the undermined White King. White has some advantage in the starting position of the game. However, after only one move for each side in this game, Black has the better position already.

White then continues to play the move 2.g4, which turns out to be a pure mistake. His position is not enhanced but rather weakens the already risky e1-h4 formation. Black has a checkmate now in one move.

Black completes the game with the move: 2. … Qh4. Black’s queen cannot be captured, white cannot remove his King from danger, and he has no way of blocking the Queen’s attack. White has been checkmated in only two moves. Of course, this checkmate is simple to avoid. All the moves of white are bad. They contradict the basic opening concepts of dominating the center of the board, as well as maintaining the safety of the king. Keeping these principles in mind will help you avoid opening catastrophes like the Fool’s mate.

The Pin and the Skewer

A pin takes place when one of your pieces faces and threatens the enemy King, but is blocked by another piece ahead of it. That particular piece cannot move because if it does, the King will be exposed to attack.

In the diagram above, White’s bishop has pinned the Knight. When a piece is paralyzed by being pinned down, there are several repercussions. Most importantly, it becomes the center of the attack. In most cases, when a piece is threatened by another piece, it has the option of running away. However, a pinned piece does not have this option; it is virtually trapped in the same position. The only way to save it is to mobilize other pieces to come to its defense. As such, the next move for the attacker is to rally other artillery to go after the pinned piece. In this case, anything that has a lower value than the pinned piece will suffice. In some cases, the piece that enables the pin is usually the one that does the capture. A series of pieces will often run to the scene from both sides. When this happens, the outcome will depend on both the value and number of pieces opposing each other at the site of the pinned piece. In these situations, time is of the essence, because the more you delay, the more possible it becomes for the enemy King to shift and subsequently release the pinned piece.

The situation just illustrated is one of the most important and common pinning patterns, but several others exist as well. In some cases, the best thing about pinning a piece down is that it cannot defend itself. A piece can also be pinned to the Queen, rather than the King. In fact, you can pin a piece to anything that has more value than itself. Pinning a piece to its King is referred to as an absolute pin. Legally, the piece does not have the ability to move. Pinning a piece to something other than itself is referred to as a relative pin. You can move a piece that is subjected to a relative pin without regret if the benefits outweigh the costs. A piece that has been pinned can move and make its own check.

Skewer

A skewer, also referred to as the X-ray attack, occurs when two pieces are attacked in a row, and closely resembles a pin. Sometimes a skewer is referred to as a reverse pin. The discrepancy is that the less valuable piece occurs behind the more valuable piece in a skewer. Your opponent is forced to move the more valuable piece in order to prevent it from being captured, thus exposing the lower grade piece that can then be captured. The long-range moving pieces (bishop, rook, and queen) can skewer.

There are two main types of skewers: absolute and relative. The King is placed in check with an absolute skewer and the opponent is inclined to handle the situation. On the other hand, the pieces involved in a relative skewer don’t necessarily have to be addressed.

The Black is next to move in the diagram above, and White’s bishop has the black queen skewered. Black has to move the Queen in order to avoid capture. White can then capture the rook on the next move. This is an example of a relative skewer. The queen is likely to be moved instead of the rook, as it is more valuable to Black, but the option is still available.

In the illustration above, White is next to move, and the black bishop has skewered White’s king. This is an example of an absolute skewer since White is compelled by the rules of chess to get out of check. Once White makes one of the several legal moves available, Black can then capture White’s queen. Since the skewer is an unswerving attack over the more valuable piece, it is considered to be a more effective and powerful tactic when compared to the pin. The person subjected to a skewer usually ends up losing something. There are some instances when the victim can avoid losing material. For instance, if it is possible for either piece to give check, thus forcing the side controlling the skewer to move out of check, or if the side being skewered is able to place a less valuable piece in the way. However, in actual play, the pin occurs more often than the skewer, but when the skewer occurs, it is usually decisive.

Strategies and Techniques

Strategies allow you to play with greater confidence, being aware of what you have to do to gain a real advantage. During a chess game it is impossible to remember the various tactics and strategies because you have to think about many things: what is the opponent's plan, what are his weak points, what are my weak points, which piece should I exchange, on which sector of the board is better to lead the attack, etc. In the center of all these considerations sometimes escape some tactics that we can perform.

Keep Eyes Open

Watch your opponent's moves carefully. Which pieces is he developing or which part of the board does he prefer? If you were in his shoes, what long-term strategy would you adopt? When you have learned the basics of the game, you should always adapt to the other player's moves. If he is defending himself, preparing the pieces on his side of the board for an attack, ask yourself what his ultimate goal is. Can you ruin his strategy or stop his plan? Does he have the advantage, do you have to retreat and defend your most important pieces or can you put him under pressure?

The Sacrifice

Learn when to eat by sacrificing one of your pieces. Swapping pieces is obviously the right choice when your piece is less valuable than your opponent's, for example, if you have to sacrifice a Knight to eat the enemy Queen, but deciding what to do is not easy when you have to swap pawns of similar importance. In general, you should not sacrifice pieces when:

- You have an advantage in the position of the pieces, in controlling the center of the board, and in the development of the game. The fewer pieces in play, the smaller your advantage and the easier it is to defend against your attacks.

- Your opponent is trapped in a corner or obstructed by his own pieces. When you have your opponent cornered, it will be harder for him to move if he has many pieces, but he may be able to break free if he has fewer pieces.

- You have fewer pieces than your opponent. If you have more pieces than the other player and neither player has a clear advantage, start eating. You will open up new paths to attack.

- You would bring two pawns in a row to each other. This makes those pawns much less useful, clogging up your side of the board. However, if you forced an opponent to bring two pawns in a row to make an exchange of pieces of equal value, you could use this situation to your advantage.

Always think 5-6 moves ahead. This is easier said than done, but you will need to have a long-term strategy to win chess games regularly. You should move each piece with three objectives in mind. If you always consider these aspects, you will quickly improve your winning plans:

- Develop many pieces (Rooks, Knights, Queens, and Bishops) in the early stages of the game and do so often. Move them from their starting squares to have more options available.

- Check the center. The center of the board is the most important area to dominate.

- Protect the king. You may have prepared the best attack in the world, but leaving the King undefended almost always leads to defeat.

Evaluate each move objectively. You should look at the whole board, considering all possible moves. Don't move a piece just because you have to: think about it and always look for the best move to make. The most effective choice depends purely on the context of the game, but there are some questions you can ask yourself to see if a move is the right one:

- Am I in a safer position than I was before?

- Am I exposing that piece, the king, or another important pawn to attack?

- Can my opponent put my piece in danger, forcing me to go back and "lose" a turn?

- Does this move put pressure on my opponent and force him to react?

A Flawless Defense

Eliminate your opponent's pieces without isolating your pawns. You must maintain control of the center of the board, but attack in a compact manner. Pieces are like members of an orchestra: each has a unique purpose, but they are most useful when working together. By eliminating your opponent's pieces, you weaken his king's line of defense and, if you use two or three units to support your attack, you can advance without losing your material advantage.

Hold on to your advantage until you can make the most of it. Inertia is important in chess and when it is on your side, you must do everything not to lose it. If your opponent merely reacts to your moves, defends his pieces against your offensives, and does not counter-attack, weaken him without rushing. Remember, you can win an exchange and still lose the game. Do not advance if it means exposing yourself to a counterattack. Instead, just eat the pieces your opponent uses to defend himself, gain total control of the center of the board, and only hit the enemy when you can make it really difficult.

Learn to block pieces. Blocking a piece means trapping it and preventing the opponent from using it unless he is willing to lose it. This 'passive' attack is great for controlling the game and will help you dominate your opponents. To execute it, study the possible moves of an enemy piece. Usually, pawns that have movement restrictions are the easiest to attack. When you have finished your analysis, instead of going on the offensive, move one of your pieces so that it threatens all the squares that the opponent's piece can reach, effectively rendering it useless for some time.

You can also block an opponent's piece by making it eat one of your own, but only by sacrificing yourself. The other player may or may not decide to eat it, but you are in control.

Always protect the queen with a bishop or rook. There will rarely be occasions when it is worth sacrificing the most powerful piece on the board, even to capture the enemy Queen. Your queen is the most versatile offensive piece and you must use it accordingly. Always protect and support her, because almost all players will sacrifice their pieces to capture her.

Queens can only reach their full potential if they have support. Almost all players instinctively observe their opponents' Queens, so use yours to force pawns to move into spaces threatened by Bishops, Knights, and Rooks.

Don't hinder your bishops with your pawns. Those pieces can attack from a great distance and using both to control the board is essential, especially in the early stages of the game. You can learn many opening strategies, but your overall goal will be to clear the way for the most important pawns so they can move freely.

Moving pawns to D4/D5 or E4/E5 clears the way for the bishops and helps you take control of the center of the board. Free the Bishops early, then use their long range to protect the Queen and Rook advances.

Silent Attack Strategies

Fork Attack

This is the first attack strategy we will discuss. It is the double (or fork) attack.

Why does the image above depict Knight? Because they are the specialized pieces par excellence in this field. As the phrase itself implies, this strategy consists of attacking two (or more) pieces simultaneously with a single attack.

As an example, let's imagine a black rook on f4, another on b4. Now imagine that there is also a white knight on d3 ... you have a double attack! The knight attacks both rooks at the same time and black will surely lose one of them. Obviously, the attacks can also be triple, quadruple, and so on. The beauty of these attacks is that, since they can only make one move at a time, the enemy can only defend one of the threatened pieces and the others will be lost as a result.

Threading

I think this strategy is easier to do than to explain. First of all, let's say that if for the double attack the best piece is the knight, for the threading the strongest piece is the queen. This strategy consists of attacking an opponent's piece that is placed in the same line of action (column, crosspiece, diagonal) as another opponent's piece.

In practice, if we attack an opponent's Bishop with a Queen, and behind that Bishop, there is another Bishop, our opponent will still lose a piece because he will move the first Bishop but the second will be captured.

Example: White: Queen f3 Black: Bishop f5 and Bishop f8.

The white queen threatens a bishop, and the bishop moves (to get out of the way of the attack), but offers another piece to the white queen. This move can be saved, however, if you have these pieces:

White: Queen f3 Black pieces: Bishop f5, Bishop f8, and pawn e7.

Let's assume that white has moved and now it's black's turn to defend. How can he free himself from this entanglement? Just push the pawn from e7 to e6 so that it defends and supports the bishop f5.

Nailing

Nailing could be said to be the reverse process of threading. Here again, the strongest piece is the Queen, but there is nothing to stop the Bishop and Rook from nailing. Nailing occurs when one's own piece attacks an opponent's piece and the latter cannot move because it is defending its own king.

This is the case with:

White piece: Bishop c3. Black piece: Rook e5 and King h8.

The white bishop threatens the rook on e5, which cannot move because it is covering its king on h1. If the opponent moves the rook, White has the right to declare an "Illegal Move" and depending on the tournament, the arbiter will take his own measures (which almost always consist in the loss of time on the opponent's clock or even loss of the game if we are in a lightning game or a semi-light game).

Checkmate of Discovery

And finally, we talk about checkmate, perhaps one of the strongest and most difficult attacks to see. This one is based on the check, but check by itself without a strategy is not very useful and whoever plays against Fritz knows this, in fact, he often repeats: "he who checks without purpose regrets it sooner rather than later."

Therefore, it is better to checkmate only when we can checkmate by discovery. This happens when you move one of your pieces as if to checkmate the opponent's king, but you don't checkmate because there is one of your pieces between your piece and the opponent's king. As soon as you move this interposed piece the opponent's King goes in check and is forced to defend against it.

Example:

White pieces: Rook g7, Bishop f6

Black pieces: King h8, Queen e1.

If it is White's turn and he plays 1. Rg1 the black King is in check because of the Bishop! So Black is forced to defend against the check by moving, and White has all the time he wants to capture the queen on e1.

Openings

There is nothing like humble beginnings when it comes to chess. If you want to win, you MUST make sure that the initial moves are perfect or near perfect. The initial moves in a game of chess are referred to as the opening, or opening moves. With a good opening, you can be able to protect your King, create better mobility for your pieces, control a certain area of the board (preferably the center), and perhaps gain an opportunity to capture opposing pieces. The possible chess opening moves have been studied extensively for hundreds of years, and most of these series have been named in order to simplify the discussion of a game. We will go through some of the most famous and effective opening moves so that you can recognize them in a game and possibly gain an edge over your opponent. All openings are usually characterized by a struggle to control a key territory, more specifically the center squares, while simultaneously trying to deploy the pawns and other pieces in useful positions.

Before we start with the moves, it is perhaps important that I provide a complete chessboard with all the markings since some of the boards in the illustrations here might not have the numbers. You can use this for reference if you are new to chess.

The Ruy Lopez

Rodriguez Ruy Lopez was a Spanish Bishop who lived in the sixteenth century. Lopez is of the opinion that 2. … Nc6 is inferior due to 3. Bb5. Interestingly, Ruy Lopez never invented this move, but it was named after him because he was the first person to put it down on paper, thus immortalizing it more than four hundred years after his death.

The Moves

The Ruy Lopez starts like this: 1. E4 e5, 2 Nf3 Nc6, 3. Bb5.

It gets pretty crazy after that. Keep in mind that there are several options to choose from after move three alone for Black, almost each having its own name.

- Cozio defense—Nge7
- Morphy defense—a6
- Bird’s defense—Nd4
- Symslov defense—g6
- Classical defense—Bc5
- Schliemann defense—f5
- Steinitz defense—d6
- Alapin defense—Bb4

You have some huge variations after the main line of the closed Spanish:

- … Breyer variation—Nb8
- … Chigorin variation—Na5
- … Zaitsev variation—Bb7
- … Kholmov variation—Be6
- … Karpov variation—Nd7

Most people play these moves but never think about the details:

1. e4: There are many things this move does. It releases the Bishop on f1, the Queen on d1, and it struggles for a couple of central squares, namely f5 and d5, which are currently controlled by the pawn. Keep in mind that pawns cannot control the squares on their sides, in front or behind. Any weaknesses? Of course! This move means you are weakening the squares f4, d4, f3, and d3, which the pawn can no longer control. The King also suffers some slight weakening.

1. e5: This move is also played with the same concept in mind, releasing the Bf8 and Qd8, and fighting for central control, specifically f4 and d4 this time. Notice anything about f4 and d4? Those were the exact squares that had been weakened by 1. E4. As such, the d4 square can be considered a significant point of:

2. Nf3: This move shifts the King closer to castling, develops a piece, attacks the black pawn on e5, and controls d4 as well.

2. Nc6: This move defends the pawn on e5, develops a piece, and tries to control d4.

3. Bb5: This move develops a piece, and gets the king one step closer to castling (but it can still castle on the fourth move already). It also attacks the Knight on c6 that controls the squares e5 and d4.

The Italian Game

The Italian Game is a chess opening that starts with 1. E4 e5, 2. Nf3 Nc6, and Bc4.

It is one of the oldest chess openings to be recorded. It appears in the Gottingen manuscripts and was used by such players as Polerio and Damiano during the sixteenth century, and in 1920 by Greco, who gave it the main line. The game has been rigorously evaluated for the last three hundred years and is sometimes interchangeably used with Giuoco Piano, although the term is used to refer to the move after 3. … Bc5.

This opening is considered a Double King’s Pawn game or Open game, and its defining move is moving the White Bishop to c4, as you anticipate an early attack on the vulnerable f7 square of your Black opponent. The game is therefore characterized by aggressive play, with the best chances of Black often being rigorous counterattacks. Many grandmasters tend to favor the Ruy Lopez instead of the Italian Game in terms of the opening move, as they consider it more advantageous for the long term.

Main Variations

3… Bc5

This was the main line of the Italian game until the 19th century. It was named the Giuoco Piano, which means the Quiet Game, in contrary to the more volatile lines being developed. It advances 4. d3, or 4. c3, leading to the positions first assessed by Greco during the seventeenth century, and renewed by the Moller Attack at the turn of the twentieth century.

This variation also includes the Jerome Gambit (4. Bxf7+), the Evans Gambit (4. B4), and the Italian Gambit (4. d4).

3. … Nf6

This is also referred to as the Two Knights Defense and is more of a counterattack strategy. This move contains the aggressive Wilkes-Bare/Traxler variation, the sophisticated Max Lange Attack, and the knife-edged Fegatello attack.

3. … Be7

This is also known as the Hungarian defense and is a solid game that is usually used in tournaments in avoidance of the risks and complications of the other lines.

The Sicilian Defense

This is considered as the best reply to 1. e4 for Black. This opening has seen one of the highest win ratios for black and is used at all levels, from Beginners to Grand Masters. The Sicilian defense has many variations, like the open & closed Sicilian, Najdorf, and the Dragon/Accelerated Dragon. It is a very versatile move that can be highly aggressive and very defensive at the same time.

Steps

1. e4 c5

*e4. Playing the King pawn two spaces in front is the most common move used in both amateur and professional chess.

*c5. Playing the Queen Bishop pawn two spaces ahead is the defining move of this opening. This is a very strong, aggressive first move because if an exchange takes place with the queen pawn of the white side, then the center pawns of Black outnumber the center pawns of White, which will be an edge later on in the game.

2. Nf3 d6

*Nf3. Playing the knight to f3 by the white side is a very aggressive move. The best thing about this move is that it clears the pieces at the side of the King in order to facilitate castling soon. It also controls one of the squares at the center and anticipates playing 3. d4, which makes it a strong move.

*d6. This is a logical move that prevents White from moving to e5, gains space, and stops Black’s Knight from playing f6.

. d3 g6

*d3. This is a very common move for this situation. A pawn chain is formed by white, and while it is not a bad move, a more aggressive and better move is d4.

*g6. This is the final move of the formation and sets up Black to finalize a King side fianchetto; depleting their defenses and preparing for an aggressive Queen side attack. This is referred to as the Dragon variation.

The French Defense

The French defense is defined by the moves: 1. e4 e6, and derived its name after it was used by a Parisian team in a correspondence match in 1834. The French defense is known as a dependable and solid defense and avoids most of the spectacular tactics that are associated with open games. When black plays e5, and after playing the usual 2. d4 d5, the e-pawn on the white side is put to an immediate test. Black sacrifices a solid position and accepts the fact that he will be cramped for the most part of the opening. In modern play, the French defense is probably the 3rd most popular response to e4, trailing behind the Sicilian defense (c5) and the open games (e5) in popularity.

3. exd5 Nixdorf, or the Exchange variation, is considered to be a boring move for White, which is usually played when the white side wants to try for half a point. But things are not that simple. While it certainly results in a symmetrical position, or something very close, it is by no means an automatic draw.

3.e5 or the Advance variation was popularized by Aron Nimzowitsh and is an aggressive attempt to gain an edge of the kingside space by white. It also provides an opportunity to attack that side of the chessboard. Black can counter-attack by playing the d4 pawn, which will force White to defend.

Nd2 opens the possibility for white playing c3 during the game, thereby protecting his Knight in case Black tries to play Bb4. The problem is that this move is less strenuous on the Black side since the pawn on d5 can be attacked when the Knight is on c3. In addition, the White bishop on the dark square is now prohibited from being developed immediately.

The Rubinstein variation can take place whether White plays 3. Nc3 or 3. Nd3, after which Black responds with e4, and the white Knight recaptures. White has an obvious edge in terms of space, but Black has a solid position, which can be difficult to break with a proper defense.

3. Nc3 Nf6, or the classical variation, is a very solid choice for Black that is not accompanied by the rigorous amounts of the theory that is associated with the more destructive Winawer variation. Generally, when White plays Nc3, it gives him more opportunities to put pressure on Black, subsequently leading to sharper positions than with the Nd2 lines.

The Winawer Variation is achieved when Black decides to play 3. … Bb4, immediately attacking the Knight on c3. In most cases, White reacts with 4. e5, protecting the pawn in case of exchange on c3. This variation is associated with complex positions and calls for a good level of theoretical knowledge in order to stay safe. Black will often exchange on c3 to gain a Queenside edge and lose the dark-squared Bishop.

Chess Tactics

Chess tactics are different from strategies as the former deals with moves in the short term that can help you gain an advantage over the opponent while the latter deals with specific devices to aid you throughout the game. Help yourselves!

Knight Fork

This refers to launching a double attack by the knight. If placed rightly, a knight is capable of targeting two pieces at the same time. Employing this tactic is advantageous because a knight has a lesser value when compared with a rook or a queen. So, it can be easily exchanged for a piece with a higher value. Since the knight does not move in a straight fashion like the other pieces, it makes the double attack even more effective. However, make sure that the opponent's knight is not one of the targets in the fork as it would not only break your fork but you will also end up losing your knight for nothing.

Queen Fork

As we all know, the most valuable and powerful piece on the board is the Queen. Queen fork is a scenario where your Queen poses a threat to two different pieces at the same time. However, care should be taken at the time of employing this tactic because it is not worth sacrificing your Queen unless it results in the opponent losing his Queen as well or help you in delivering a checkmate to your opponent. The Queen is too valuable for you to trade it with any other piece of lesser value. So, make sure you choose your targets in the fork properly.

When you use the Queen to target a protected piece, beware for it can backfire on your queen and it will be a futile attempt. The ideal targets while employing this tactic are:

1. A king plus an unprotected piece (or)

2. Two unprotected pieces

When you set up a fork with the king and an unprotected piece, the opponent will be forced to remove the check. He will either move the king or pin a piece to it to negate the threat. Either way, you get to take the unprotected piece.

When you employ the fork with two unprotected pieces, the opponent would have no choice but to protect only one piece. This gives you an opportunity to take the other unprotected piece easily.

As mentioned earlier, any other target would result in either you taking back the move or losing your Queen. So, it is important that the power of the queen is utilized properly. If dealt with properly, you can even deliver a checkmate with a series of Queen Forks.

Bishop Fork

By now, you must know what a bishop fork is. Yes, it is threatening two viable targets using your bishop. One important thing that has to be kept in mind while employing the bishop fork is the safety of the bishop. If you use an unprotected bishop to render a bishop fork, you will end up losing your bishop in a jiffy.

In most cases, a bishop fork is employed to threaten the opponent's king as well as an unprotected piece. Since the king is in a check, the opponent will most probably move the king thereby giving you an opportunity to take the other piece for free. If at all, the opponent brings in another piece to get in between your bishop and his king, you still get to exchange your bishop for a piece with a higher value.

As in the case of the Knight fork, make sure that you do not have the opponent’s bishop as one of your targets as it will result in you losing your bishop for nothing.

Arranging a pin:

There are two kinds of pins basically namely the absolute pin and the relative pin. A detailed overview of the two kinds of pins is as below:

- Absolute pin:

An absolute pin is essentially a situation arising from the following steps:

1.       You threaten the opponent’s king with a check using one of your pieces.

2.       The opponent, instead of moving the king, moves another piece to get in between his King and your piece thereby removing the check.

However, by doing this, the opponent is at a disadvantage. He will not be able to move his piece any further because it will result in an open check. The pinned piece will be absolutely incapable of moving in any direction. So, you have successfully created a threat as well as rendered an active piece of the opponent inactive by arranging a pin. Apart from rendering the pinned piece inactive, it also makes it a vulnerable target.

- Relative pin:

A relative pin works exactly like an absolute pin except for the fact that here the opponent’s piece is not pinned to his king. Instead, it is pinned to another piece of the opponent like the Queen for instance. However, in the case of a relative pin, the pinned piece is not stuck so much like in the case of an absolute pin because the opponent might consider sacrificing the threatened piece.

These are just a handful of tactics to get you interested in the game. There are countless tactics that could be employed by you during the course of the game and ultimately win it. Do not forget to practice the ones mentioned here and explore the other ones.

Chess Strategies

Now that you have a fair idea as to how to open, it is important how you play your next moves. While playing an informal game, it is acceptable to let the game take its course and play accordingly. However, this cannot be the case when it comes to a professional game or a tournament, especially when time is of the essence. You do not have the luxury of time to think patiently and make each move.

Most chess players are successful because they are not only able to foresee their opponent’s moves but also plan their next moves in a jiffy. A solid plan or strategy is required if you wish to up your game!

We bring to you certain pointers associated with the different strategies. As we all know, it is not possible to predict all the moves of the opponents and come up with a rigid strategy. It is not humanely possible to expect the opponent to play all the moves in the textbook. So, we wish to not bore you with these textbook strategies. However, we have identified some tips which are common to most of these strategies which can help you improve your gameplay.

Most of the chess strategies cater to these basic four aspects:

- Center control
- King Safety
- Pawn structure
- Piece quality

Let us look at each aspect in detail and the tips thereunder. These tips are the foundations on which most strategies are built.

King Safety

Since the ultimate motive behind playing chess is to protect our King, it is important that we ensure the King’s safety. Most of the strategies aim to ensure the safety of the King. Some pointers to keep in mind while considering this aspect of the game are:

- Make sure that there is a proper shield of pawns in front of the King. A weak shield or the absence of pawns leaves the King naked for the opponent to launch an aggressive attack.

- Always ensure that you have enough defending pieces near the king to replay against the opponent’s attacking pieces.

- Ensure that you have strong center control. Allowing the opponent to build a strong center could possibly ring the death bell for your King.

- Castle your king in the beginning. Do not wait till the end to castle your king.

Pawn Structure

A strong pawn structure is essential for complimenting your gameplay. A good pawn structure will also help in supporting the other strategies. Make sure that the following tips are taken into consideration to strengthen the quality of your pawn structure.

- Never allow your pawns to stay isolated. These are points of weaknesses and can be easy targets for the opponents.

- Ensure that your pawn structure is dynamic. A dynamic pawn structure can put the opponent in a tough spot.

- Your pawn should support the movement of the other pieces. Pawns that block the other pieces are detrimental and will not allow you to adopt aggressive gameplay.

Piece Quality

As we all know, each piece on the board has a different value. The different pieces as well as their values are as follows:

- Pawn—1
- Bishop—3
- Knight—3
- Rook—5
- Queen—9

However, when we say piece quality, we do not refer to the value of the pieces. Piece quality refers to how well a piece plays during a game and also how well it complements and plays along with the other pieces.

The major factors determining the role played by each piece are as follows:

- Flexibility: The flexibility of the pieces is determined by how quickly they are capable of changing their roles. Pieces that are situated in the center of the board have more flexibility than the pieces that are positioned in the corners of the board.

- Mobility: Unless there is enough mobility available, no piece would be capable of fulfilling its destiny. Make sure that there is enough room for your pieces to move around.

- Stability: What good is a piece if it can be easily removed by the opponent? Ensure that all your stronger pieces are not put in vulnerable positions for the opponent to take them down easily.

- Some pieces are well suited for aggressive attacks while others are good at offering a strong defense. Identifying these and playing these pieces accordingly will make a lot of difference to your gameplay.

Some pointers to increase the piece quality are as follows:

- Always go for the space advantage. Space advantage simply means one player controlling most of the squares on the board. This will give you enough scope to build your pieces accordingly and launch attacks from all sides. It also gives you a lot of room to experiment with your next moves. An added advantage is catching the opponent by surprise. Since you have pieces positioned in most parts of the board, it becomes extremely difficult for the opponent to predict your next moves. The elements of surprise and anticipation can work wonders in your favor.

- Never stop giving threats. So long as you keep giving threats to the opponents’ pieces, your opponent will have very little time to think of aggressive moves.

- Never leave any piece inactive. Improve even the inactive pieces as they can help you in launching attacks in the future.

- Always weigh the options before making a move. Sometimes there could be more than two good moves. Weigh their pros and choose the one that is the most beneficial.

- Move your pieces forward as much as you can. Never let your opponent’s piece enter your half of the board.

- Do not allow your opponent to place his pieces in good squares. The art of depriving the opponent of good squares for his pieces is called prophylaxis.

Center Control

Having control over the center is essential not only to gain an advantage over your opponent but also helps you in enhancing the quality of your pieces. Moreover, there are more options for you to choose from when you have a strong center. Plan your strategies based on how your center looks. Your center could be in any of the three positions:

- Blocked center: If it is not possible for you to easily open the center, then you are left with the following options:

- Organize your pieces properly.

- Build your pieces along the flanks of the board.

- Be prepared to position your pieces in any file that opens up.

- Open Center: When you have an open center, then it is time for you to put your active pieces into action. If you do not capitalize on the open center, your opponent will do so without further hesitation and that will be a lot of trouble to deal with. Some pointers to deal with an open center are:

- Ensure that all your active pieces are forwarded to the center. Placing them in passive positions will not help you in achieving piece quality.

- Do not waste your time over weak spots such as an isolated pawn. When you are building a strong attack with your active pieces, the opponent would be least bothered about taking your isolated pawn. Even if your pawn does get sacrificed, it gives you an opportunity to advance your strong pieces to the center.

- Dynamic center: A dynamic center is a situation when there is no clarity as to who holds the center. In a situation like this, both the players are in a confused state. Here are a few pointers to deal with a dynamic center:

- Clarify first! Understand who holds the center first. Only then, you will be able to plan your next moves accordingly.

- Never launch an aggressive attack without clarifying the center. You might end up losing some of your valuable pieces.

As mentioned earlier, it is not entirely possible to predict each move of both the players up front and devise a foolproof strategy. As we perfect our game with practice, studying the gameplays of various grandmasters would be of great assistance. For now, if you employ these tips correctly, you will find yourself getting out of the many tight spots your opponent puts you in during the course of the game.

Tips for a Successful Opening

This covers all the basic strategies and tactics of the game, so if you are a complete beginner, it is a great place to start. If you do not feel like you need it or you have already read the book, then you can just keep reading.

Opening Tip #1: Control the Center

The center of the board is the best spot to assert domination during a chess game. For different reasons, having pieces positioned in the center of the board gives a player both offensive and defensive advantages over his opponent.

Opening Tip #2: Quickly Develop Pieces

In addition to helping a player control the center, developing pieces also helps a player prepare for an attack. The more pieces a player has developed, the better equipped he is to plan an attack on the opponent’s king. In addition, a player with more pieces developed usually has the “initiative” over his opponent.

Opening Tip #3: Develop Pieces by Attacking

Having the initiative is a great way to establish and maintain control during a chess game. For this reason, it is helpful when developing pieces to place them on squares where they directly target the opponent’s pieces. Doing so can force the opponent to waste a turn by moving a piece away from an attack. It also causes delays in the opponent’s development of his own pieces making it easier for the attacking player to establish an early positional advantage.

Opening Tip #4: Develop Your Knights First (Before Bishops)

Knights are more effective in the center of the board. They help take control of numerous squares and support center pawns. Consequently, it is advantageous to develop knights towards the center as early as possible. Excellent developing moves for knights are Nf3 and Nc3 for white, and Nf6 and Nc6 for black. In general, it is better to develop knights towards the center and to keep them away from the edges of the board.

Once both knights are developed, bishops can come into the game. Because bishops can move freely along the board’s diagonals, they can move across the board more quickly than knights, and thus, it is quicker for them to get to an advantageous position than it is for knights. That is one of the reasons why it is important to develop knights first.

Opening Tip #5: Castle Early

Not only does castling add extra protection to the king by placing it in the corner of the board where it is least vulnerable, but it also develops one of the rooks. This helps prepare an attack. A good rule regarding castling is to try to do so before the 10th moves. Castling kingside is somewhat easier than castling queenside since it only requires the development of two pieces to clear the way for the king. It is also considered the better option by many because it puts the king further from the center than when castled on the queenside.

Opening Tip #6: Try to Keep Your Opponent from Castling

Considering the benefits of castling mentioned above, it is a good strategy to keep your opponent from redeeming them. By keeping your opponent from castling, you make sure his king remains exposed, in the center of the board. It also slows down your opponent’s piece development.

Opening Tip #7: Keep the Castle Closed

Once you have castled, it is important that you refrain from moving the pawns right in front of your king. These pawns work as a shield for the king, and moving them might expose it making it easier for your opponent to attack. So, depending on which side you chose to castle on (kingside or queenside), keep the pawns on that side in their starting position for as long as possible. You might have to move them at some point to block opposing attacking pieces, or to give your king an escape route. But unless you feel it absolutely necessary, do not move the pawns in front of your castled king.

Opening Tip #8: Do Not Bring the Queen Out Too Early

It is recommended to not develop the queen before other, less valuable pieces. The queen is the most powerful piece on the board, so its survival is very important for one to win the game. Bringing it into the action too early might expose it to capture from the opponent’s fewer valuable pieces. Protecting the queen would then require the waste of an important number of defensive moves, which would delay the development of pieces, giving the opponent a development advantage.

Opening Tip #9: Do Not Move the Same Piece Twice in a Row

As you know by now, it is very important to quickly develop pieces during the opening. A good way to achieve that is to avoid moving the same piece twice. In other words, after developing a piece, a player should focus on making other developing moves, and only consider moving already developed pieces later in the game. Some cases might require moving the same piece twice, although this is rare.

Opening Tip #10: Maintain a Neat Pawn Structure

Maintaining a neat (undamaged) pawn structure is the best way to ensure the safety of your king while allowing for the smooth development of your pieces. A damaged pawn structure can create numerous weaknesses in a player’s camp. Some of these weaknesses include exposure of the king and/or major pieces, detrimental opening or closing of files, prevention of pawn promotion, and many more. There are several ways to damage a pawn structure such as isolated pawns, backward pawns, doubled pawns, holes, etc. All of the above should be avoided during the opening.

There are many more tips and things to look for in the opening, but these are the main guidelines to keep in mind. Later in the book, we will go over more opening strategies and things to look for during this crucial phase of the game.

Tips on the Best Way to Play Chess Better

Chess has been around for a long time. This is a game that has occurred in families for quite a long time, played in parks far and wide, and even incites detainees' brains in jails. After a long game and your mind is worn out, numerous individuals figure, "How might I play better chess?"

The sequences that good players use to win games may seem complicated. On the other hand, most are based on a few general concepts that are intelligently and continuously combined.

Here are three hints you can add to your chess stockpile to help you understand the specialty of winning chess.

Twofold Danger

One of the essential thoughts in chess is a twofold risk. When all is said in done, a twofold danger is any move you make, which presents two issues to the next gathering at the same time.

Since each player can only make one move at a time, your opponent has only one chance to eliminate one of the threats.

Next time you run another one. Maybe your first move is to check your king and attack another piece at the same time, or maybe you threaten one of his pieces and threaten to inspect elsewhere. The result is the same: your opponent must make the next move to counter your threat against his king, and then he must take the other piece you threatened.

The Weak Piece

Another significant idea in chess is a free piece. A loose piece is simply a piece that has no protection. It is common for players to leave unauthorized tracks here and there. They look safe enough until they are attacked, but the pieces released set perfect goals for the double threat described at the moment.

Suppose your queen makes a fork while attacking her opponent's king and one of his rooks. He moves his king. Now you can use the queen to protect your face - if not protected. On the other hand, if this rook is protected, you can't use it because it will cost a lot: your queen will be captured later.

We can turn this into a practical game recommendation. You always want to be aware of the free parts on the board. Any piece that your opponent does not protect is a possible target for a tactical attack. Any piece that is not protected is vulnerable. You want to not only observe the free parts of the enemy but also to look for ways to create them.

Constraints

Therefore, convulsions and threats of the husband are considered obligatory. In other words, these are the moves that make your opponent choose from a set of possible answers. They are the essence of tactical chess. These allow you to dictate your opponent's movements and thus control how the board thinks you will look two or three or more steps today.

Here and there in chess, you move; however, you’d like to, and afterward, the rival does anything he desires. Other times: For example, if a knight captures him with his bishop, he is about to have to take your bishop back. Otherwise, he is a short piece and will probably lose. (Other parts on both sides are gradually changed, and you will only end up with only the remaining portion attacking the board.)

Why is the Rapid Development of Chess Pieces So Important?

When playing chess, nothing matters as much as building up your pieces, and at the earliest opportunity, you can be a phenomenal standard for some chess players. From the second you open the chessboard; you will attempt to put all the pieces in a square shape that will be viable rapidly.

When you play a game, the person who quickly developed the pieces will usually be the one who controls the flow, and eventually, the one who will win the game. By taking the time to ensure the parts' rapid progress, you can avoid any pitfalls that the other party plans. The essential rule is to remove your knights and bishops from there and work quickly at the new castle to guide your king. The development soon distracts the opponent from developing his pieces and prevents him from controlling the game.

If your color is on the board turns out to be white, you want to be quick in developing your piece, especially since you have the advantage of being the first to move. If you are a black player, you have to play defense; unless your opponent fails to develop you, then you want to progress quickly. Spend time looking for places to attack your opponent and make sure you set up a perfect defense.

Spend time developing your spaces in the right areas. It is basically true if your rival plays a game or defense that you do not know quickly. Make sure you send the pedestrians to the center as soon as possible so that you can remove the pieces, thus preventing your opponent from saving your pieces. As far as possible, expand into the center and then attack the opponent's squares. Then, take your time to prepare yourself for the possible defenses of your opponent.

Make sure you spend time developing your pieces on the side where you want to place your castle, and many players do this in the kingdom. After you've removed the small pieces, then you want to go ahead and make the castle, then do your best to open the rook in the file. After you make sure that your parts are fully developed, you want to build your queen. Make sure you do it at the right time and that it is not far from many of your other parts, so she can’t protect other components.

Be prepared to mainly develop your bishop, queen, and rooks to advance other goals. Try moving your pieces from time to time, opening them to make sure you don't leave small pieces behind.

There are a few opening traps that you want to learn if your opponent does not develop. This trap requires you to play a certain way, so you can catch your opponent and eventually win the game.

To get started, you need to use the first move called 1. e4, which controls the center and gains an advantage. You have to play 1... e5, which is the right way to control the center and a great reaction to the initial movement.

Next, you can try a move called Wayne Open, where you will move to 2. Nc3, which will help you control the center and help you develop this piece quickly. 2D... Nf6, which poses a threat to white players on foot.

Then 3. Bc4, which develops another track and is ready for the next game. 3... Nxe4, which can be a great control center and an ambitious move. Wife Qh5! Qf6 is a defensive move that makes the game white with a check. Nxe4 means that White will win the song and threaten the Queen, allowing the whites to win the match easily.

Part Two: For Intermediates

Grand Master Tips

1. Look for Forced Moves First

Before you rush into calculations, try asking yourself if there is a forced move first. This could be a checkmate, a capture, or an attack on a valuable enemy piece. An example is worth a thousand words. You are in this position:

White's turn. Before considering other moves, look for the forced move. In this case, the forced move is pawn h4-h5+. The king is forced to go to h6 and finally knight f7, checkmate.

2. Search for Sacrifices

Sacrifice is a great example of a forced move. It is a doubly strong move as it is usually unexpected by our opponent. Often sacrifices start with a checkmate which is the ultimately forced move.

In this diagram, White's turn. He sacrifices the rook with Rh5+. Black is forced to capture with the knight and finally pawn g4-g5# and White wins the game. Always keep an eye out for moves that instinctively you would never make.

3. Look at the Most Common Tactical Patterns

Most tactical motifs are basic tactical motives. Experienced chess players solve dozens and dozens of tactical exercises day after day to keep their eye trained. Here is a list of the main motifs

- Nailing;
- Fork;
- Threading;
- Double attack;
- Attack of discovery;
- Checkmate of discovery;
- Removal of the defender;
- Interference;
- Intermediate move.

In this diagram, it is Black's turn to move. He succeeds in diverting the white queen from c2 thanks to the move 1. ... Dd1+ 2. Dxd1 Rxg6.

It is true that Black now plays with one less queen but he has avoided checkmate and now the a3 pawn is very strong and will soon be promoted.

4. Look at the Whole Chessboard

One mistake we all make is focusing too much on attacking the opponent's king. We place all our pieces in the east, trying to create a formidable attack, but then all it takes is one action in the west by our opponent to put us in crisis.

We tend to focus our attention on that sector of the chessboard where something is about to happen and often forget about the other side which is apparently quieter. Watch this game now, Karpov with white and Taimanov with black.

Black does not see a powerful tactic that would have won him the game. Can you see it? Your attention is probably focused around the rook on a1 or the queen on d4. Yet the knight may surprise you…

1. ... Cg3+ 2. hxg3 Ra8 and White can do nothing to stop the Rh8# move.

5. Practice Solving Tactical Problems

This may seem obvious to many players but not to others. Practicing tactics allows you to learn how to attack and defend faster. However, playing flash games online will only lower your defenses against your opponent's attacks and can cost you dearly in tournament games.

6. Placing Pieces in the Best Possible Way

One of the basic strategies of grandmasters is to place their pieces in the best house (or square). The problem is sometimes figuring out which is the best house... The best house for a piece is the house that gives it the longest range and the best activity.

In the opening game, the grandmasters place the pieces in the best way, and in the center game, they place the pieces as harmoniously as possible so that they cooperate with each other and at the same time hinder the opponent's plans.

7. Strong Control Over the Chessboard Center

From the center of the board, the pieces are faster, more dynamic, and control more squares. Both in the opening game and in the center game the grandmasters control at least two squares of four of the center pieces (e4, e5, d4, d5).

In the endgame, the king also becomes an active piece and moves towards the center of the board. The best cooperation of your pieces is always in the center. So, remember to always have good control over the center.

8. Pressure on Weaknesses

During a game, pawns are always pushed. Every pawn push creates a weakness. Being able to pressure a weakness can quickly lead to winning a game.

The grandmaster attacks you in the sector of the board where you are weakest, not the sector where you are strongest. So, if you have castled and have all your pieces close to the king to protect it, the grandmaster will attack you on the queen's wing.

So always try to cover your weaknesses and attack your opponent's weaknesses.

9. Causes Mistakes in Your Opponent

If there are no weaknesses in your opponent's line-up, the Grandmaster will cause them! To create weaknesses, the Grandmaster employs a refined technique and the use of various tricks. He will make the opponent play the moves he wants to provoke weaknesses.

Finally, with his superior technique (theory of outposts, opposition, weak houses, back pawns, suspended pawns, etc.) he will easily win the game.

10. Repressing Your Opponent's Initiatives

This type of play is also called prophylaxis. You don't always have to think about “yourself” in chess, but you also have to ask yourself: what could my opponent do now that would be lethal to me?

Once we have given ourselves an answer, we play to prevent our opponent from getting that initiative. Playing against your opponent's plans is one of the strongest strategies.

It is better to stifle your opponent, preventing him from doing anything, than to gain a material advantage.

11. Move with Different Reasons

When we move pieces, we do so for a specific reason. "I moved the knight to f3 to develop a piece" or "I'm castling now so I can secure the king." This is what normal chess players think. This is what grandmasters think:

"With long castling, I can secure the king, but at the same time, I get the rook out and put it on the central column where it attacks the opponent's queen. In addition, my three castling pawns are firmly in control because the queen's wing is blocked."

This is complex reasoning but remember that a move should never have only one purpose.

Tips to Accelerate Your Learning

I’ve already shown you the principles that will help you improve your Chess game. Here are a few Skill Artist tricks that can help you get better faster.

Play Faster

Hands down, my Chess game improved the most when I started playing faster. Originally, I was a very slow Chess player. Now I frequently play 10-minute blitz games.

I discovered when I started playing faster that I actually made fewer mistakes. Having more time did not improve my game, and to this day, more than 10 minutes on my clock does not lead to better choices.

If you’re typically a slow player, I would advise playing 40-minute games (20 minutes for each player) to start out. Then, work your way down to 20-minute games. The idea is to play faster than you are comfortable with. Pretty soon, you’ll be comfortable and you’ll have to play even faster.

The advantage of playing faster is it forces you to know your technique before you move. Having excess time can actually lead to Decision Fatigue, which often results in poorer choices later in the game, especially for newer players. Also, the faster you play, the more games you play and having played more games can give you a better perspective of the center game and endgame.

On the other hand, I once saw a pair of new players playing very fast. At first, I was impressed… until I saw they were sacrificing their pieces with bloody reckless abandon. So, if you tend to be a fast player, but make a lot of mistakes, try slowing down for a while until you’ve internalized basic chess and the 8 principles I listed above.

Computer Chess Clock

Chess Clock App for iPhone or Android

These days I would recommend getting an app for your phone. It’s the least expensive option and it usually works the best.

Physical Chess Clock

You can also buy a physical Chess Clock. For some reason, Chess Clocks are heinously expensive. They range from $20 to $70. If it’s twenty dollars or less it will probably break within a few months, so I would recommend getting one of the nicer ones.

Strengthen Your Chess Muscle

Skill artists know that learning a new skill is like strengthening a muscle. Repeat to remember. Here’s how you can think of it. If you want stronger biceps, would you go to the gym, do one bicep curl and go home? No! First, you repeat it nine more times. You do 10 repetitions again. Then again. And then you can move on (and hopefully work something other than your bicep, but that’s another topic for a Skill Artist’s Guide). And a few days later you’ll come back to the gym and follow the same routine.

In order to get your brain to remember a skill long term, you must expose it to the new skill consistently for an extended period of time. For example, to learn Chess, I would say to practice or play every day for at least a week. Then, you can take a couple of days off. But play for another week straight after that. Continue this schedule until you’ve reached your goal.

Your sessions can be anywhere from 10 minutes to three hours. I don’t recommend playing more than three hours because your brain fatigues after a while and training stops being effective. Now, if you have to take an extra day off here or there, that’s okay. Everybody’s schedule is different. But don’t take more than a few days off because your Chess muscle will atrophy.

Get a Partner or Join a Community

Because humans are naturally social, the brain engages easier when there’s a physical person in front of it. Find someone who is at your level or teach him a few of the principles (maybe not all of them, mwahaha) and engage him in friendly competition. After every game, I would encourage you to do a post-game analysis. Discuss with your partner why you either lost or won the game. Learn from it and play again.

If you don’t have a Chess partner, or even if you do, it’s always good to join a community of Chess players. In most cities there are local Chess clubs, just search Google for Chess clubs in your area.

Join an Online Community

You can also join an online community. You can join for free and play live Chess against people from all over the world. This is a great way to practice your Chess skills. They also have a program called Chess Mentor that teaches you strategy and tactics with a premium membership ($14 a month).

One of the biggest advantages of playing online is you can measure your progress by getting a rating. It’s easy to think you’re getting better when… actually you’re not (Trust me I’m guilty of this too). That’s why it’s important to find an objective way to measure your progress so you can constantly strive for a better rating and playing online is a great way to do that.

Most people have a Chess program on their computer. I don’t recommend playing against a computer to learn Chess because computers don’t make the mistakes humans do. You want to play against someone who is at your level and Chess computers either totally destroy you, or they make weird mistakes that don’t make sense.

White's First Moves

King's Pawn Opening/The Open Game

Known as the King's Pawn Opening, this is by far white's most popular choice historically and empirically. 1. e4 has proven a favorite opening move by some of the biggest names in chess. It is easy to see why as the move accomplishes all of the main goals, we set out for our opening. It controls the key central squares d5 and f5 as well as allowing the development of two of our pieces, the bishop, and the knight. It is for this reason that it should come as no surprise that three of our example openings are King's Pawn mainline variations. When black replies back with the move 1...e5 this is called the Open Game.

King's Gambit (1. e4 e5 2. f4)

A historically very popular opening, especially around the 19th century when this opening saw a lot of play. It has since fallen out of favor somewhat but is still worth mentioning to beginners as it keeps to our core opening principles and has a lot of solid theory and evidence to support its success.

The main line starts off:

1. e4e5

2. f4

Immediately white contests the center with the sharp pawn advance f4. A little bit of lingo here for this opening: a gambit is a sacrifice for some other advantage. In this position, black can simply capture the pawn on f4 immediately if they so choose as white is not defending their f4 pawn. There are two main variations to the King's Gambit depending on whether or not blacks accept this sacrifice. They are therefore named the King's Gambit Accepted if black chooses to take the pawn on f4, or the King's Gambit Declined, should black instead choose to protect their now threatened e5 pawn. Let's start off with the King's Gambit Accepted to try and learn why white would ever want to give a pawn away in the first place.

King's Gambit Accepted

With the moves:

1. e4e5

2. f4exf4

We have reached the first position in the King's Gambit Accepted. It is white’s turn to play now. If you remember back to our discussion about controlling the center, white was very happy to have pawns on both d4 and e4 as this gave them very excellent control of the center of the board, as well as options for all of their minor pieces to develop naturally. We will cover what d4 brings to the table in a lot more detail in the Queen's Gambit Opening. This is the most usual continuation for white, but sometimes white will instead elect to play Nf3 followed by Bc4 next turn to both stop black from advancing their f4 pawn, as well as to prepare to castle immediately.

King's Gambit Declined

After:

1. e4e5

2. f4bc5

This is the King's Gambit Declined—Classical Defense. Black has developed his bishop, as well as interfered with white's attempt to castle—as you cannot castle through check. You may be wondering why white wouldn't simply capture the black e5 pawn after black neglects to protect it. Let's take a look at what happens if white takes the pawn.

1. fxe5?? Qh4+

Suddenly white is in some real trouble. They are either going to lose the rook after:

2. g3Qxe4+

Notice how both the King and the Rook are being attacked? This is a tactic called a fork. Because black has forked white's king and rook, black is going to have to move his king and lose the rook.

If instead, white tries to run, the game ends swiftly:

Ke2 Qxe4#

Italian Game (1. e4 e5 2. Nf3 Nc6 3. Bc4)

A historic opening, containing over 500 years of recorded games, it has been studied by many of the biggest names in chess history. The characteristic move of this opening is the move:

1. e4e5
2. Nf3Nc6
3. Bc4

Sometimes referred to as the Italian Bishop. These games are very often sharp-attacking games with white trying to focus on the poorly defended f7 square (only the king defends it at the start of the game).

Also note how white has started developing an attack while, at the same time, preparing to defend with a kingside castle at any moment. A hallmark of high-level chess is accomplishing several goals with just one move.

Black, on the other hand, will usually try a strong counterattack in order to try and prove white was overzealous in their efforts. While more modern variations such as the Ruy Lopez have gained popularity, it is still worth examining this opening as there are great attacking chances for both sides. The two main variations branch depending on how black decides to respond after white moves their bishop. After 3...Bc5, we reach a position known as the Giuoco Piano and after 3...Nf6, we instead reach a position called the Two Knights Defense. We will be exploring each one separately.

Giuoco Piano

The Giuoco Piano main line continues as follows:

1. e4e5

2. Nf3Nc6

3. Bc4Bc5- Giuoco Piano with Bc5

4. c3

White is playing c3 in order to prepare the move d4, grabbing vital central spaces away from black. Black will usually try to either counterattack with the aggressive move 4...Nf6, or hold on to their central control with the move 4...Qe7. Note that while this is a queen move in the early game, it doesn't violate our opening principles here, because the queen is being used far back on the 7th rank, as a support for her more forward pieces. This is a great and safe way to activate your queen without putting her in immediate danger.

Two Knights Defense

The Two Knights Defense starts out with:

1. e4e5

2. Nf3Nc6

3. Bc4Nf6

The most obvious attacking continuation is to continue with the move 4. Ng5. White is increasing the pressure on that f7 square and threatening to win a pawn by force, as well as messing up black's hopes of castling. The usual reply from the black is:

4.4 Ng5d5

From this position, white has little option but to take on d5 as his bishop and e4 pawn are both under attack. After this, there are several different variations we will discuss later on.

However, black can instead try the exciting move:

4. Ng5Bc5

This is a dangerous counterattack from black. He is ignoring the mounting pressure upon the f7 square in favor of developing some counterattacking potential. White has three main variations: 5. d4, 5. Bxf7+, and 5. Nxf7.

Ruy Lopez (1. e4 e5 2. Nf3 Nc6 3. Bb5)

It can be said that the Ruy Lopez is the go-to option for many professional chess players when it comes to the Open Game (1 e4 e5). Unless black plays with perfection, it can be very tough for them to achieve equality. This is one of the key reasons why many black players choose to use the Sicilian Defense in response to 1. e4 instead.

After 3. Bb5, let’s take a moment to analyze the relationship between white's bishop and black's knight. Imagine for a moment that the pawn on d7 didn't exist or had already moved to d6 or d5. If you notice, the white's bishop would attack black's knight and have the king lined up right behind it. This maneuver is called a pin. Pinned pieces can't move or they will expose a valuable piece (King, Queen, or Rook usually, but pawns can be pinned to other pieces too!) to danger. Black someday has hopes of making a break in the center with a move like d5, but with the white bishop attacking the black knight, that is an issue for black to think about. Let's see how black typically likes to respond:

1. e4e5

2. Nf3Nc6

3. Bb5a6- Morphy Defense

Named after the great chess player Paul Morphy during the 1800s, this is the most popular response for white. This moves forces white to clarify their intent with move b5. If he wishes to trade bishop for knight, black has taken no steps to prevent this exchange. If white retreats back to c4, black has won a tempo back from white by forcing him to move his bishop twice.

The most common line is called the Closed Defense and goes as follows:

4. Ba4Nf6

5. O-OBe7

Ba4 from white to retreat away from the attacking pawn. Note that black can still, at any time, kick the bishop away with the move b5. In some variations, the white bishop may find itself trapped in the corner and care must be taken to allow room to escape a possible b5 pawn thrust by black at any moment. Nf6 increases black's central pressure by attacking the e4 pawn, as well as supporting that d5 move black has in the back of their mind. White castles away to safety and black develops his bishop and prepares for a kingside castle of his own.

Other White’s First Move

Queen's Pawn Opening / Closed Game

White starts the game off with the great move d4 and achieves several of our goals for the opening. White again occupies a central square with a pawn and attacks the two important central squares in c5 and e5. Also, white can now look to develop their queenside bishop as the pawn has moved to allow the bishop to move. It's a bit far away yet, but this move does also contribute to the king's safety in the sense that it is the first of several moves that white could use to facilitate a queenside castle.

Although there are several good replies for black, very often black will choose to occupy his central space with a pawn on d5 and there the Close Game has been reached. All the same good things that applied for white, apply to black as well, so black feels very comfortable in staking a claim in the center in this way. Next, we will explore a mainline called the Queen's Gambit. One of the oldest and most exciting chess openings, as it features exciting chances for both sides.

Queen's Gambit (1. d4 d5 2. c4)

The Queen's Gambit is one of the oldest studied openings with well over 500 years of written history to support it. Another gambit opening which, if you remember from the King's Gambit, means some kind of sacrifice in material for a positional advantage.

Play starts out:

1. d4d5

2. c4

Right away, white is telling black that he intends to fight for the center in a serious way. He is offering an undefended wing pawn on c4 in exchange for that ever-tempting double pawn center of d4 and e4. The difference is, unlike the King's Gambit that takes place on the relatively undefended king's side, this gambit takes place on the queen's side and that means the queen can get involved much more readily if the need arises. Because of this difference, it is not a true gambit, as black can't actually hold on to their pawn on c4 after the exchange, which we will cover below. Just like the King's Gambit, the Queen's Gambit has two mainline variations depending on whether or not the offer on c4 is accepted by black, and they are called Queen's Gambit Accepted, and Queen's Gambit Declined. We will cover each variation in some detail.

Queen's Gambit Accepted

To recap, the position is:

1. d4d5

2. c4dxc4

The Queen's Gambit Accepted has been reached after this set of moves. As I promised you earlier, this was not a true gambit and I told you that black can't hold on to their current pawn advantage. Let me first demonstrate that to you now.

3. e3b5?

The move e3 is played if white aims to recapture the pawn immediately, as it opens up the light-square bishop onto the c4 square, threatening the opponent's pawn already. Also, it helps solidify white's center which can be useful in ensuring that white's plan goes off without any interference from the black. The play would continue:

4. a4c6?

5. axb5cxb5?

6. Qf3!

After that dazzling queen move, black is going to lose a piece. This isn't the main line but I wanted to show you how black's best chances are to accept that the pawn isn't going to stay around and play objectively good chess instead.

White's most common play here is actually 3. Nf3.

White recognizes that the pawn on c4 is doomed and instead focuses on getting a slight lead on development. White will usually move to recapture the c4 pawn in their upcoming turns as follows:

3. Nf3Nf6- Black's most common reply is to develop their own knight

4. e3Nc6

5. Bxc4c5

6. O-O

This position leaves both players with solid chances. White has regained their missing pawn and has developed their pieces to effective spaces. Black, on the other hand, managed to get through the opening with equality in terms of development and space and should feel satisfied with his chances of going into the later stages of the game.

Queen's Gambit Declined

While technically, any move that is not 2...dxc4 is considered a Queen's Gambit Declined game, we will be focusing on the orthodox response as follows:

1. d4d5

2. c4e6

By moving his pawn to e6, black is able to defend his central pawn, holding on to his control of the center. In addition, this allows black the option to develop his dark-squared bishop along the a3-f8 diagonal, also getting him one step closer to eventually castling to safety kingside.

While this is a solid and defensible position for black to play from, and indeed many players with the black pieces have found success here, white will try to prove that black's light-squared bishop does not have an effective square to find a meaningful place in the game. Black, on the other hand, will try to either release the bishop, trade it off, or find a useful supportive outpost for it and try to use it in the end game.

Another option for black to try is 2...c6 which is called the Slav Defense.

The main line continues thus:

3. Nc3Nf6

4. Bg5Be7

5. Nf3

White develops his queenside knight to its ideal square behind the c4 pawn where it can exert great control over the center of the board. Black takes the opportunity to get his kingside knight into the game and help prepare his kingside castle. White tries to take advantage of black's last move by creating a pin on black’s knight onto the queen. Black is forced to develop his dark-squared bishop to e7 to free black's knight from this pin (now if the black knight moves, the bishops will face off instead of leaving the queen exposed).

White then develops their knight to a good square and helps solidify the bishop's position on g5 against a potential discovered attack from the knight against the formerly undefended bishop. A discovered attack is when the movement of one of your pieces will expose an attack from another piece behind it. These maneuvers are an excellent tactic to watch out for as they can come as a real shock to an unsuspecting opponent (or you if you get caught in one yourself!).

c4 – English Opening

While the move has been known since antiquity, it only arrived in a tournament-level play in 1843. Considered a somewhat new opening, this was an opening used by such legends as Bobby Fischer in his sensational match against fellow legend Boris Spassky.

It is known as a flank opening, meaning it attempts to exert control over the center of the board from a wing pawn position. Wing pawns are the pawns on the c and f files for both sides. The c4 pawn in the initial position controls the d5 square of our opponent with a non-central pawn. If we could trade our c pawn for our opponent’s d pawn, we would have a slight advantage, since we could then play d4 and control space with our pawn, which our opponent has to use pieces to have the same control. These are small advantages, but they can add up when you keep gaining more small advantages. This is how professional chess players win.

One feature about the English Opening, in particular, is that it is a flexible opening that can transpose between other well-known positions or stay on its own unique path. This flexibility is one of the big draws for players who enjoy this opening, as it allows them to play a very adaptive style of game in response to what their opponents are trying to do.

This opening has two main lines called the Reversed Sicilian, or the appropriately named Symmetrical Defense. This opening is much less rigid than some of the other openings we looked at before, and generally has some goals it tries to achieve and less a strict order of moves. Nonetheless, we will take a look at very common move orders here to go over the strategy behind the opening.

Reversed Sicilian

The line starts out:

1. c4e5

The name of this variation comes from a very popular black opening called The Sicilian Defense. The way that games usually continue after this opening is:

2. Nc3Nf6

3. g3

The knight development to c3 is again perfect since the c4 is already moved. Black likely wants to prepare to kingside castle and solidify their stake to the center so Nf6 is perfectly reasonable. But then there is this odd g3 move. This move seems to break one of the rules we laid out about king safety and pawn structure. We normally don't want to move any of the three pawns around the side of the board we plan to castle. While this move does weaken the pawn chain itself by opening diagonals through g2, what white is intending to do is a maneuver called fianchettoing-the-bishop. This fancy word really just means you will be putting your bishop into that hole you just opened up in g2. This diagonal on the board is called the long diagonal and is a great outpost for bishops, as it gives them the most possible squares that they can move to.

From here black can play either 3...c6 or 3...g6 with both having about equal chances. With that being said, white will almost always follow up with 4. Bg2.

Symmetrical Defense

As the name suggests, the line begins:

1. c4c5

Black holds on to positional symmetry with this move. White has many options of play and many of them are tried. The moves white wants to play in some order are g3 and Bb2 when possible. Additionally, the queenside knight would be quite happy on c3 since the pawn has already advanced. And finally, the kingside pieces need to be developed to allow castling. These moves can really be executed in the most logical sequence based on your opponent’s moves, but for the sake of demonstration we will show a typical move sequence here:

2. Nc3Nc6
3. g3g6
4. Bg2Bg7
5. Nf3Nf6
6. O-OO-O
7. d4

Now that's a lot of moves all in a row, and they are all keeping perfect symmetry, but it doesn't have to happen exactly like this. The important thing to recognize is what the position looks like, and you can do the moves leading up to the castle in a different sequence. In games where black just keeps mirroring white, black is neither falling behind nor gaining ground. It tends to be a line that can lead to positions more likely in ending in a draw, with white being given slightly better odds due to moving first.

First Moves—Blacks

e4c5—Sicilian Defense

Easily the most popular and statistically successful opening for black to the nearly universally played 1. e4 from white. While visually similar to the English Opening: Reverse Sicilian, this is a much older opening with a full and rich history. Indeed, enough has been said on the Sicilian to fill several books in their entirety with this opening alone. Let's start by analyzing the opening move from black c4.

Just like in the Reverse Sicilian for white, black aims to control the center of the board from a flanking wing pawn, keeping their important d and e pawns for a potential break in the center later. Again, if black could ever trade their c pawn for white's d pawn, he could see that as a slight advantage over white, as he could then have a central pawn majority over the white player. As we have seen before, the advanced c pawn also provides a great outpost for black's queenside knight that is a major factor in how the game usually plays out.

From a theoretical standpoint, black is starting to lay a claim to the dark-colored squares in the center of the board. Imagine for a moment that black could achieve their goal of a Knight on c6 as well as the eventual move e5. Notice the grip that black would have on all those central dark squares. The c pawn gives control over b4 and d4, the hypothetical pawn on e5 targets the d4 and f4 dark squares, and a knight on c6 could exert its influence on a5, b4, d4, and helps protect e5. This is a very common theme for black to try and have a rock-solid grip on the dark squares, especially d4, where white would otherwise have plans of eventually making a break with moves like c3 and d4. Lastly, to further show dark-square dominance, a common strategy for black will be to fianchetto their dark square bishop at g7 giving them even greater control over those squares.

There are two mainline variations to the Sicilian Defense, called the Open and Closed Variations. Let's take a look at the Open Sicilian first:

Open Sicilian Defense

The main Open line goes as follows:

1. e4c5
2. Nf3d6
3. d4

White develops their kingside knight, preparing to castle shortly. White is also taking a chance to control more of the center of the board, especially those dark squares we know black is so keen on in d4 and e5. Black has other options for his second move other than d6, however, this is the most common reply. The move d6 by black creates a pawn chain with the c5 pawn, solidifying its defense. Additionally, it opens a path for the light-square bishop to activate along the c8-h3 diagonal. Finally, this move actually prepares black to play their kingside knight to f6. Notice how if black played the knight move immediately, as in 2. Nf3 Nf6, white could cause some real problems for black with the simple move: e5, threatening to capture our freshly developed knight and taking a lot of central space. Best to avoid that scenario with the preparatory move d6.

There are of course many other ways black could respond after Nf3. From here the main continuation is:

3. d4cxd4

4. Nxd4Nf6

5. Nc3

Black has achieved one of his goals of exchanging his c pawn in for white's d pawn. Black continues to develop the kingside knight now that white can't disturb it with their e pawn because of the d6 pawn protecting the e5 square for us. White continues development with Nc3.

In this position, black will try to prove that his central pawn majority is winning and has a clear advantage. White, on the other hand, has a significant lead in piece development, as well as more control over the center of the board, which he will claim, giving him more than fair compensation for his d pawn.

Closed Sicilian

The main line looks like this:

1. e4c5

2. Nc3Nc6

And here, black will develop similarly to in the open Sicilian but not always in the same order. Black has goals they wish to accomplish and not a rigid plan of attack requiring a strict move order.

We want that knight on c6 and usually, we want our bishop to fianchetto on g7 (Notice how the black pawn chain is otherwise in the way for black to put their bishop on a meaningful square. Fianchetto is a great way to solve this problem!). We get our queenside knight into the game on its favorite square now as well. This is a great example of why knights like to be behind pawns. Look at the difference between the two knights on the c file. Notice how black's c pawn has contributed to his plan in a significant way. White would love to be able to play moves like c3 and d4 and grab some of that juicy center, but right now his knight on c3 is in the way! This is one of the major draws for players who enjoy playing flank openings such as the English and the Sicilian.

Let's see what is considered to be the main line, but again this move order can vary significantly:

3. g3g6
4. Bg2Bg7
5. d3d6

Both white and black have the same idea here: My pawns are in the way and I need to get my kingside bishop into the game somehow. Once again, a fianchetto is an answer, and in this case, both sides will usually opt for this strategy, as they are both being walled in by their pawn chain. White's pawn on e4 is still on the way—for now. White can, at any time, open a discovered attack with a cheeky move like e5, both attacking black's pawn chain (assuming it is played after d6 from black), and disrupting the scope of black’s bishop. Both sides solidify their pawn structure by creating pawn chains in turn 5 with d3 and d6 respectively.

From here both sides will develop their last pieces and castle, and we have reached a stable and about equal position to start a mid-game. Both sides have great chances here and many fantastic positional games have been reached from this opening.

e4 e6—French Defense

The French Defense is a fairly recent opening that began to see more prominent play in the early 1800s. This is a bit of a slower start compared to some of the flashier openings and can lead to some very technical closed games.

The main line opens as follows:

1. e4e6

2. d4d5

White gets his classical double pawn center, but black intends to fight back from the very start with an early pawn advance on d5 supported by his first move e6.

White has several responses. The most popular is 3. Nc3 to protect the attacked e4 pawn.

Another common try is 3. Nd2 called the Tarrasch variation which is similar to the usual move 3. Nc3 in that it defends e4, but also different in the sense that the knight has a broader scope for its second move, and the dark-squared bishop has been blocked in, meaning it cannot be developed until a solution is created.

There is another variation known as the Advance Variation, where white plays 3. e5 taking the space given by black's second move and avoiding the exchange of central pawns.

Finally, there is the exchange variation that can be tried after 3. exd5 exd5, which leads to a symmetrical pawn structure, with each player having a pawn on d4 and d5 respectively. The exchange variation leads to a position that is objectively equal for both sides, and either side will have to try to unbalance the position if they hope to achieve a win instead of a draw.

Winawer Variation

Let's take a look at 3. Nc3 and a typical continuation of the main line called the Winawer Variation now, as it is one of the most well-studied continuations for the French Defense.

3. Nc3Bb4

4. e5c5

5. a3Bxc3+

6. bxc3Ne7

Let's walk through each move. White moves his Knight to c3 protecting the e4 pawn. Black moves his bishop to b4 creating a pin on the c3 knight against the white king. This pin effectively means that e4 is no longer defended as that knight cannot move to recapture while pinned to the king, as it would leave the king in check, an illegal move.

To deal with the undefended pawn, white advances it to e5, claiming some extra space, and making a pawn chain with d4. Black seeks to undermine this pawn chain with the pawn move c5 attacking the d4 pawn, protecting the e5 pawn now. White aims to dislodge the bishop on b4 with the move a3, by attacking the bishop with a lesser piece, making black decides what they want to do.

Black captures the knight on c3 and white recaptures with his b pawn, creating doubled pawns for white to worry about later. Finally, black develops his kingside knight to a square preparing to castle soon. White is still several moves away from being able to castle and if black castles and breaks things open in the center, white can find himself in a real danger being caught in the center of the board with his king.

This variation is a very good try for black to achieve equality or possibly an advantage. He is exchanging a slightly cramped space by virtue of white’s e5 pawn, for a lead in development and better king safety.

Other Black’s Moves First

e4 c6—Caro-Kann Defense

Compared to some of the big-name chess openings like the King's Gambit and the Italian Game, the Caro-Kann Defense is a very newly adopted opening by chess masters, only entering into professional play in the late 1800s.

From the initial position, white will almost universally play d4, to claim the classical d4 and e4 center white loves so much. Black's plan with c6 was to prepare for turn two and the move d5. Black immediately competes white for the center. This tension makes many newer white players uneasy and results in an early exchange, which favors black. Since white is the one to initiate the exchange, black will end up trading the c pawn for white's precious e pawn.

By preserving both central pawns in the event of an exchange, black hopes to avoid some potential weaknesses found in some other openings when playing for control of the center directly with a move like e5.

By creating this tension on d5, it forces white to clarify his intentions and allows black to react accordingly. There are three main ways white tends to reply and these are the main variations of the Caro-Kann. They are the exchange variation, either of Nc3 or Nd2 as they very often transpose into each other, and the advance variation where white pushes their pawn to e5. We will take a quick look at the exchange variation and the Nc3/Nd2 line. The advance variation plays very similar to the French Defense with some positional differences to consider.

Exchange Variation

This line starts out as follows:

1. e4c6
2. d4d5
3. exd5cxd5

Black strikes back into the center with d5 and white chooses to trade pawns. The next moves vary but the most common line and considered the main line goes like this:

4. Bd3Nc6

White develops their bishop to d3. The main purpose of this move is to control the f5 square, preventing black from developing their light-squared bishop to its optimal square on f5. The next moves can vary. But, to finish off the main line for the exchange variation, a common continuation is:

5. c3Nf6
6. Bf4Bg4
7. Qb3

White makes a solid pawn chain with c3 and limits the potential scope of black's dark-squared bishop by taking away the b4 square. Black develops their kingside knight to better defend the kingside squares, including g4 which will be important in a moment. White develops their dark-squared bishop to a useful square on f4. And black takes advantage of the support of their knight on f6 to play Bg4 attacking white's queen while developing to a useful square. Finally, white will move the queen to safety and develop to a useful square by moving her to b3. This move gives her excellent scope over the board, including the now weak b7 pawn, since the black's light-color bishop is now sitting on g4.

From this position, we have reached an equal position with both sides having roughly equal chances.

Nc3/Nd2 Variations

This line is considered together since they will usually transpose into the same position after black plays the move, 3...dxe4, and white recapturing with the knight at either position, moving to be on e4. This is where the line begins:

1. e4c6
2. d4d5
3. Nc3/Nd2dxe4
4. Nxe4

The classical variation then continues:

4. Nxe4Bf5

5. Ng3Bg6

Black attacks white's undefended knight after the capture, and so white retreats to g3 and now attacks the bishop! The black bishop retreats to g6 to stay in a good position and get out of harm's way.

There is actually a special relationship here between black's bishop, and white's knight that is pretty annoying for white to deal with. A bishop that is four squares away from a knight (e.g., Bg6 and Ng3) can cover every square the knight can move forward.

Because of this reason, white will sometimes continue with the idea of eventually disrupting that bishop with 6. h4. Black will usually respond with 6...h6, giving the bishop a spot to back into if needed and stopping that h4 pawn from disrupting black's pawn structure.

The main line goes like so:

6. h4h6

7. Nf3Nd7

8. h5Bh7

9. Bd3Bxd3

10. Qxd3

Both sides activate their knights, black wants to get into the action kingside so it deploys to d7. White continues on with his pawn on the h file, moving up a square. Black tucks his bishop away in the corner where it will be safe as well as to shore up the space left behind by the move h6. White plays Bd3—a final challenge to that pesky light-colored bishop for black: Capture me or I will capture you and leave your king more exposed. Black is forced to trade bishops, and white will collect the annoying black bishop once and for all with Qxd3. From here we have a position where black can hope to have some solid defensive options in the mid-game without having conceded too much to our opponent in terms of positional weakness.

e4 e5 2. Nf3 Nf6—Petrov's Defense (Russian Game)

Also known as the Russian Game, this is a symmetrical response that became more popular after it was introduced by Alexander Petrov in the mid-1800s. It is a favorite by many who prefer to avoid the Sicilian Defense, and it also steers white away from common lines such as the already shown Italian Game and the Ruy Lopez.

Classical Variation (3. Nxe5)

Let's take a look at the classical variation:

1. e4e5

2. Nf3Nf6- Petrov's Defense

3. Nxe5d6

Note that it is a mistake for black to try and mimic white with a recapture of their own, as white will come out ahead in position or material. Instead, black should dislodge the knight on e5 to force it to move with the simple move d6. Let’s see what happens if black tried to capture with 3...Nxe4.

3. Nxe5Nxe4?

4. Qe2

And now white either wins black’s queen (4...Nf6?? 5. Nc6+) after a discovered attack with the knight moving to strike at the queen or gains a much better position after 4...Qe7 5. Qxe4 d6 6. d4 f6 7. Nc3 dxe5 8. Nd5 Qd6 9. Bf4 Nd7 10.0-0-0.

Instead, black plays the move 3...d6 taking, the central space with his pawn, supporting with that knight on f6. Mainline play continues:

4. Nf3Nxe4

5. d4d5

6. Bd3

White brings his knight back to safety, black now takes the opportunity to capture white's pawn with Nxe4. Both white and black fight for the center with central pawn advances to d4 and d5, respectively. And finally, white tries to increase the pressure against the advanced knight on e5 with his bishop moving to d3. It will take white a couple more pieces if he hopes to come out ahead with an exchange of bishop and knight, as if white is not careful and simply exchanges pieces now, it could be black that ends up with a large space advantage. If they get a pawn on e4 supported by moves like f5 and g6. Black could then tuck his king away queenside instead, and be left with a brilliant mid-game to look forward to with a nice spatial advantage.

Steinitz Variation (3. d4)

This variation progresses as follows:

1. e4e5
2. Nf3Nf6
3. d4

From here black can capture either pawn. If pawn takes pawn, the line would go:

3. d4exd4

4. e5Ne4

5. Qxd4d5

6. exd6 (ep.) Nxd6

7. Nc4Nc6

8. Qf4

Black captures pawn for pawn with exd4, white advances his e pawn further to e5, threatening the knight on f6. The knight moves to a more central square with Ne4. White wants to continue having central control and so scoops up black’s hanging pawn on d4. Black plays d5 to protect the knight on e4, supporting itself from the black queen on d8. White exchanges with exd6 (ep.).

En Passant, meaning “in passing” in French, is a special move that happens when a pawn tries to run past another pawn like we just saw. In the turn right after the pawn runs past, the other player will have a one-time opportunity to capture the pawn as it passes.

Knight captures back with Nxd6. Next, we continue with development on the queenside with Nc4 and Nc6 respectively. Finally, white activates their queen to f4 pressuring black's somewhat exposed kingside. This is a pretty even position for both sides.

If black decides to capture with the knight instead, we would have the following:

3. d4Nxe4

4. Bd3d5

5. Nxe5Nd7 or Bd6

Here, black captures the e4 pawn instead with his knight. White again adds pressure against the e4 knight—a real theme in the Petrov, and Black defends with d5. White captures black’s pawn now with the move Nxe5. And now black can continue development with either Nd7 or Bd6, as both help to increase black's control of the center, while also developing pieces. Notably, the Bd6 option allows black to castle.

Conclusion

I hope that you found this book about Chess Openings an informative and an interesting read. But this is just not another book that should be closed and left to rust in your folder! Use it as a guide to improve your game.

With the basic tactics, tips, and strategies mentioned here, it is only a matter of time and hard work to help you become a professional player. So, go on and show off your chess skills.

This book is a very important work to know how to play chess effectively. Especially if you want to become a champion or a master-level player.

This book is mainly about 1. e4. So, if 1. d4 or 1. c4 is your favorite opening, go ahead and give it a try, but you should read this book first before giving it a try as these files contain very specific tactics and strategies to help you in your game of chess.

Chess is a game where anyone can get better at, by reading books and becoming more intuitive. But it takes a lot of time to master this game and become a professional player.

These are very basic and straight to the point, but for most chess beginners they would be like a foreign language to them. To make things easier for beginner chess players, I have put these tutorials into steps so that you can easily understand them and read along as you need to.

I have put these with the chess diagrams in order to help you find out what is wrong and what is right in your understanding of chess. It is best to understand the concepts before you start practicing.

You should use this book as a reference guide for your game. Either you want to improve or you want to become a master, then this is an excellent book for that purpose.

Learn the basic chess tactics and ideas that will help you become a better player. There are many stages to becoming a chess master, but all start with these basic principles.

These are the fundamentals of chess. This book will help you become a better player in only one month (if you are really dedicated).

I would like to recommend this book to all those who want to learn how to play chess and improve their game.

This is the defacto chess book for beginners. This book is not only for beginners, but it will also help anyone who has just started playing chess to have a firmer grasp of the game and a better understanding of the strategies and techniques necessary to master this complicated game.

This book will help you to improve your chess skills in all aspects of the game, including tactics. Chess is a game of wits and even though there are no tricks to knowing how to play chess, the moves must be made with intelligence, patience, and strategy.

After reading this chess book you will have a firmer grasp of the basics of chess. And most importantly you will be on your way to becoming a better player.

The book is organized according to the various chess openings so you can understand chess concepts quite easily.

Once you are finished reading this book, I will be able to guarantee that you will understand chess and how it works.

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Chess Strategy

Advanced Strategies And Tactics Explained. Moves And Techniques To Improve Your Endgame On The Board And To Become An Expert Player.

Table of Contents

Introduction

Chapter 1: Play Chess to Improve Problem-Solving Skills

Learn to Play for Preparation Skills

How to Improve Your Skills if You Are Terrible at Chess?

Think Right if You Want to Play Right Chess!

Chapter 2: Strategies in Chess

The 10 Tips to Win a Chess Game

Be More Cautious of the Moves Taken by the Opposition Than Your Moves

Make Sure to Reply With the Best Move Each Time

Play With a Plan

Knowledge of Each Piece

Well-Development of the Pieces

Control the Center

Safeguard the King

Timing of Trading the Pieces

Work on the Endgame

Concentration

Chapter 3: Analysis and Puzzle Games

Strategy and Tactic

Paul Heuäcker 1930 Win

Homework

Pawn Structure—The Skeleton of the Position

Kon—Rubinstein Sankt Petersburg, 1909

Lasker—Consultants Moscow, 1899

Opocensky—Prokop Prague, 1942

Homework

Chapter 4: More Puzzle Games

Problems 1–49

Chapter 5: Openings

King’s Pawn Openings

Queen’s Pawn Openings

Flank Openings

Choosing Your Opening

Chapter 6: Opening Movements

Ruy Lopez

English Opening

King’s Gambit

Queen’s Gambit

Dutch Defense

Center Counter

Additional Tips and Reminders

Chapter 7: Middle Game

Protecting the King

Pinning

Material

Fork

Exchange

Mobility

Chapter 8: Important Middle Game Principles

Control the Center

Centralize Your Pawns

Pawn Weaknesses Will Weaken You

Use Pawns to Protect Weak Squares

Use a Knight to Blockade an Isolated Pawn

Use Rooks to Occupy Open Files

Predicting the Opponent

Chapter 9: Endgame

The King

Pawns

Classic Checkmates

King and Queen

King and Rook

King and 2 Bishops

King, Bishop, and Knight

Chapter 10: Endgame Strategies

Double Queen Pawn Opening (Closed Games)

The Queen’s Gambit

Slav Defense

Mainline: Slav Defense

The Semi-Slav Defense

The London System

Chapter 11: Strategize

How to Think

Piece Placement

King

Pawn

Chapter 12: Tactics to Support Your Strategy

Discovered Attack

Pins

Nets

Forks

Skewer

Destroying a Defender

Driving off the Defender

Chapter 13: 7 Aspects to Focus on to Become an Expert Chess Player

Know the Rules and Play Lots of Games

Practice With Chess Puzzles and Analyze Fundamental Endgames

Watch Your Back!

Learn From Experienced Chess Players

Don’t Waste Time Playing Weaker Players

The attack in the “Middlegame”

Don’t Play Too Fast!

Conclusion

Introduction

Chess strategy book talks about how to play chess.

This book covers some important parts of the strategy of the game. Also included are practice problems that help the student with some basic strategy concepts. The material is adequate for a student who is just learning chess but maybe somewhat thin for an experienced player. It is written in a semi-humorous style that makes the subject matter interesting. The author’s style is very informal, and his enthusiasm for chess is contagious. Not a book to be engaged seriously, but as an introduction or refresher course, it may do the trick. It may be useful for experienced players who want an understanding of the history of chess and don’t want to read a textbook. It would also be helpful for instructors or parents who are looking for a short book that can be used in class.

This chess strategy book talks about how an expert player approaches the game in general. The basic principles are explained by the author. A player should be aware of the mental aspects, and how to deal with them. Learning some basic concepts of chess can make it easier to understand how the pieces move. Where to place your pieces for maximum effectiveness, and when not to do anything. When the player can’t win by conventional means, there are a few simple tricks that can help along with other strategies. The book also contains a few games of chess where some of these concepts are illustrated.

The book includes topics such as the basic principles of strategy, types of pieces and how they move, a complete description of castling in chess, chess-pieces combination, chess study, and a few games. The book is written in an easy way for beginners and students who want to learn about chess at a better level. It will help to improve your chess skills. The author has a great knowledge of the game, and his experience with playing as well as the research he has done on chess is very evident in this book. The author states that his objective is not to point out every little thing but to give an overall idea of the tactics and strategy involved in playing chess. This book covers some important parts of the history and strategy of a game, as well as practice problems that help with basic strategy concepts. The problem is appropriate for a beginner to get a better understanding of the basics of chess. The book is focused on training the central strategies and concepts that are necessary for beginners to learn, as well as techniques and practices that can be learned.

The information in this book is good enough for a novice reader but maybe somewhat thin for an experienced player. The book is written in the form of an anthology, so there are a variety of short tips and short case studies. The author also emphasizes that all the maneuvers included here are not necessary to be successful in chess strategy and that some players may use any one of them at will. The writer states that his objective is to give an overall idea of the tactics and strategies involved in playing chess.

Chapter 1: Play Chess to Improve Problem-Solving Skills

Life is full of difficulties. Learning how to treat them is an ability that anyone should use. Chess will show us how to do this. For example, the ability to face challenges and not panic is important in life. Chess offers us practice if our queen is caught suddenly.

Too often we respond with little thought to the problems of life. However, chess teaches us to take our time and look at the problem from all angles, and this isn’t all; often, our challenges in life give us no choice. We learn to build imaginative solutions in the face of slow odds in chess.

Another important problem-solving ability in life is to weigh our choices.

We’re also trained in chess to do this. We do that when we give parts values. It allows us to weigh our choices. Finally, in life, we must choose the right alternative. Then take steps. In this lesson, every move we make in chess gives us practice.

1. Learn to Play for Preparation Skills

In chess, you have limited resources, just like life. If you win, you have to think ahead. There must be a justification for each step. There should be nothing lost. Failure to prepare 2 or 3 steps ahead may be fatal in chess. Each step brings a response. An unexpected move by our adversary could take us out of the game. The same is true of creation.

There’s an ancient saying, “If you fail to plan, you are planning to fail.” In chess, or life, this could not be truer. Thankfully, chess gives us a safe place to practice our strategy skills. In our preparation, we can make mistakes, but they can only cost us a game at least. By learning how to prepare, we can use this ability in other aspects of life that are less forgiving.

The last skill I want to discuss might be the most difficult to master. It is patience.

We live in an era of immediate appreciation. We seldom wait for something with microwaves, ATMs, and quick credit. We get mad if we’re in line for more than a few minutes, and it’s just a wonder we can’t be patient?

It was a day when “Patience is a virtue” was said. That’s still true today, I believe. We just forgot about its meaning. Again, chess can teach us this potential. One of the main errors inexperienced players make is not to be careful. It takes patience to wait for an error from our enemy.

The establishment of strategic steps requires patience. You need to be careful and don’t resign if the odds are against us, but these patience exercises will teach us valuable skills that can be applied elsewhere in our lives.

2. How to Improve Your Skills if You Are Terrible at Chess?

Have you ever wanted to improve on chess and tried it and found it difficult? Don’t fear, many people have done this, and they spend their whole lives trying to improve it for many who love chess!

In theory, improving chess is just a case of learning how to find the best way for individual players to play in any position. Typically, the player who finds the least good moves loses.

But even this model is faulty. You have to think and look forward to chess. After at least 2 or 3 more moves by the opponent, the best move in that position will not be best in certain positions.

That means, once you determine the likely best move for that position, you need to think about a minimum of 2 or 3 moves ahead of your opponent’s best play. This is where estimation becomes more complicated.

First, you must also assess each position for strengths and weaknesses and evaluate which side is better or whether equality exists. If the evaluation is inaccurate, the subsequent transfer’s estimates and considerations would also not be correct. To make a comprehensive decision, you need to understand chess’s essence, including chess principles, tactical, positional, and strategic chess play variables.

All those areas that make up the chess game can be learned by playing and advising other chess players, videos, and chess courses from books. After a player knows and frequently plays the fundamentals of these areas, the importance of the 3 distinct chess phases, the start, the middle game, and the end game, becomes clear. All the chess, as mentioned above factors is relevant at any point in the game.

However, every step of the game has special considerations. The purpose of the opening is to create all the parts with care for the king’s protection with casting and regulating the center of the board.

In the middle game, players strengthen their pawn’s position and weaken the opponent’s positions (through captured pawn or piece and successful piece exchanges and weakened pawn structures).

In the end game, the king’s operation becomes essential along with pawn’s promotion and passed pawns. Checkmate patterns are becoming important for interpretation and understanding. The game ends with a checkmate but be careful not to stand still if you win. If you lose, you may want to play to stop and draw.

However, consider a chess game as a whole, preferably comprising all 3 pieces. Moves, strategy, and tactics in the opening have a strong impact on the middle and the end and prepare ahead to consider that.

Short-term benefits can be overturned by longer-term strategies (for instance, exchanging a bishop for the capture of a knight, a bad decision can offer more advantages depending on the game, whether it is open, half-open, or closed).

A terrific way to progress is to study popular and renowned chess games and understand the tactical, strategic, and positional elements. There are so many to choose from but try finding some that use your favorite opening or defense. Paul Morphy’s “Night at the opera” is a popular game that illustrates how well one player understands average movements by the other.

Studying all the world chess games can also help to improve your game. Some believe Bobby Fischer was the greatest player ever, and he liked to play 1. e4 as a white. If you concentrate on studying his games, your chess will improve. Similarly, Kasparov is considered by many to be the greatest modern chess world champion, playing 1.d4 as Mikhail Botvinnik, the world champion, played 1.c4 successfully.

Strong chess players understand the basic concepts of chess well and play every opening or position conveniently, as they understand all the factors involved in making good chess movements. Less strong players typically have no basic knowledge of chess and make more mistakes, particularly when inexperienced.

You do have to remember your opponent in chess! It’s a clear and fundamental error to just focus on your plans and moves and not care enough about what the opponent is playing.

If you ignore your opponent’s movements, you will easily get into trouble. Determining your chess move is then based on your best move, and your opponent will make the best move and decide on your move (strategically, positionally, and tactically) from there!

If we are reading annotated game sets, analyzing gaming openings, practicing chess tactics, etc., we prefer to read. Well, just read! This is a notable example of being a spectator. If it explains how we train, get this: chess is NOT a spectator sport. To get better in chess, you can better understand how to smooth your hands and compete.

“How do I do that?” You might inquire.

Let me send you a few examples:

Passive chess improvement training: Reading annotated games—you’re just playing on the table and the variants, and if you have verbal feedback, just pause, and read it for a moment.

Active chess development training: Play through the opening move, read, and learn from annotated chess games in an ACTIVE way (a.k.a. Solitaire Chess). Afterward, cover your moves, try to forecast the winner’s moves. Along the way, write down your thinking train and the lines you saw.

This is only one EXAMPLE! You may also research openings—comment on the opening movements, instead of just memorizing variations and descriptions of various opening lines.

Why is it better, and why being it worse?

Why does this move take place instead of the other one?

Check the notes after forming your own “opinions” to see how near or far your evaluation is.

Active chess improvement training ensures that you involve YOURSELF, consider and evaluate yourself before studying the notes. It will help you remember SENTINEL chess lessons and make it easier for you to apply those ideas to your games.

GM Smirnov says: “With passive learning, you only hold 10–20% of what you’ve read, but you will maintain 70–90% with successful learning.”

BUT I am going for better retention; I don’t know about you!

3. Think Right if You Want to Play Right Chess!

This is another important tip for improving chess! As a thought-out guy, this is NOT your hand’s pace, which counts in chess (which is possibly what blitz residents believe).

Learn how to think like a powerful chess player—see threats from your opponent and parry, find movements that cause your entire army, find weaknesses in the camp of your opponent, and most importantly, learn how you will pounce.

Concentrate, concentrate! I’m sure you saw that coming.

We heard that repeatedly, but did you ever take the time to concentrate on one aspect of chess (tactic, open, ending, etc.) before you know it?

Here’s a tip: when you decide to read a book or course useful for your chess improvement, take a note. Not a mental one but a written note that before choosing another book, you’ll read it from top to bottom and understand it DEEP enough to apply the ideas in your games.

Any good chess book will help you develop your chess. Ensure you absorb it. 10 half-read chess books are NOT better than a chess book read and understood.

Here is another thing: continue your training (reading books, seeing videos, etc.) ACTIVE! Instead of just passively reading game notes and variations, cover them and anticipate the moves MUST analyze the position.

Set up the location for videos on the board and think about yourselves before you play again. A. Nimzowitsch attributes his significant increase in strength because of his concentration and preparation. He’d spend 6 hours in one annotated chess game rather than spoon-fed!

Concentration and active training are important. However, only half the equation is important; the other half is equally important: focus on required. Endgame is helpful—there are no questions about that. However, if you’re losing to basic forks in the opening or middle game, you have to focus on strategies!

Chapter 2: Strategies in Chess

4. The 10 Tips to Win a Chess Game

The game of chess can be classified into 3 distinct stages. The first stage is known as the opening, where calculated opening moves are made to have an upper hand over the opposition. The second stage is known as the middle stage, where the players play for control and position in the board by an attack, counter, and defense. The last stage is the endgame where the kings come into play where saving the king becomes the motive along with the strategy to checkmate the opponent.

In the process of the game, pieces will be captured by both parties. Each player loves to capture more pieces than his rival to dominate the game. As we get to indulge in overthinking, we may place our piece in danger of capture by mistake. Such an inviting capture is known as “En Prise” or “In Taking.” But, in some cases, players voluntarily place their pieces for intake as a part of their strategy to trap the opponent when he captures the piece.

Following are the top 10 tips that will lead you to a victory in a game of chess:

Be More Cautious of the Moves Taken by the Opposition Than Your Moves

- Make sure you always take time to think about the following questions once your opponent makes a move.

- What is the reason behind moving that piece?

- Is there any risk to my piece or any piece of the opposition?

- Should I be cautious of any other danger which I did not see coming?

- What can be the strategy of my opposition?

After answering all the questions, make your move that will be a reply to the questions by spoiling the plan of the opponent.

Make Sure to Reply With the Best Move Each Time

While contemplating your move ask yourself the following question:

- Can this piece be moved from this place to a better place?

- Can the improved effectiveness of a piece lead to a better position?

- Is this move capable of tackling the tactics of the opponent?

- Is the new position safe for this piece?

- Is the new position safe from attack if a pawn is moved?

- Is the piece worthy of the move and will it be chased by the opposition?

Emanuel Lasker, a former Chess Champion, has advice for all the Chess enthusiasts out there. He said, “When you see a good move, wait, look for a better one!” Despite it being a great move, it may not be the right time to make that move.

Play With a Plan

As a chess player, it is very important to make moves according to the action plan. Moving around the chessboard without any precise plan will only lead to defeat as the opponent will not face a challenge from your side. Each piece should be moved according to a plan and played together as a team. Just like an orchestra that plays the same tune, chess pieces should play for the same plan.

The plan causes the unity of the chess pieces. It is more impactful to attack the king of the opposition together as an army than attacking as a single piece that would be captured in a losing cause. The strategy can be to capture a certain area of the board to dominate the game. The plan can differ from a person to person, but it should be a well thought out plan.

Knowledge of Each Piece

The value of the pieces should be considered over the fact of the number of pieces each player has in the game before trading a piece. The player who has more total value of the pieces over the other has an upper hand.

The pawn is considered as the least effective piece as it has just a point value and also, it cannot be moved backward, unlike other pieces which can be moved in the desired direction according to the movements of the pieces. Hence, this estimation of the total value to know the position of the players is a good assessment. The value of 3 pawns will equal the worth of 1 bishop or knight. The knight has the unique power to jump over other pieces. The bishops move along the diagonal squares. The bishop in the black square can move only on the black square and likewise for the bishop in the white square. But the bishop can move faster than the knight.

The rook has the power of moving around the length of the board in a short time. The value of a single rook is equal to 5 pawns. The opponent’s rook can be captured using a combination of bishop and knight.

The worth of a queen is equal to 9 pawns, which is equal to the value of a pair of rooks. The queen can move in any course across the squares of the board.

The king is the piece around which the game is played. But it has no value or worth since it cannot be captured or traded in the process of the game.

Well-Development of the Pieces

The time factor is considered to be a vital element to take control of the game. The faster the pieces are developed, the better is the chance for the player to dominate the proceedings of the game. Control of the board is only possible with quickly well-developed pieces brought into the play.

As a beginner, the players may waste time by moving the pawns and capturing the spaces on the board. But the game cannot be controlled by just making the pawn movements. Make use of other pieces, which can attack more valuable pieces of the opponent, even when they are at a distance, due to the reach they have. The stronger pieces should be brought into action as soon as possible by removing the pawns that are in the way. Also, make sure that the valuable pieces do not face any danger in the process, as the opponent will keenly watch all your moves to quickly eliminate the stronger pieces. The pawns can be moved to render to the plan after the valuable pieces come out for the play.

It is a common temptation for the players to bring the queen into the play. The queen is the key piece, which can win you the game. It is vital to make usage of it only when it is the right time and place. If the queen is lost in the initial stage of the game, it will be a great loss for the player and a greatest trade to the opponent. Make the moves when it is the best for the piece to attain the desired place to attack in a few moves. The calculated moves will save the time of the player and the opposition.

Control the Center

The 4 squares of the center should be controlled to dominate the game. Firstly, when a piece is in the center, it can make more movements than in any other position of the board. For example, a knight in the center can more in 8 distinct positions as compared to a knight in a corner, which can move to only 2 positions on the whole board.

Being in the center also facilitates the advantage of faster movement. A piece can be taken to the opponent’s territory easily when the center is in your control. The player who first captures the center can launch the attack first as the travel of the pieces is easier.

Safeguard the King

The final aim in the game of chess is to checkmate the king of the opposition. Sometimes we get so occupied with the plans of defeating our opponent that we forget that our opposition is also playing with the same aim.

Always ensure the safety of the king by castling it on the board. The pawns around the king are the lifesavers. The movement of such pawns should be minimal as the king will be in danger once pawns are moved away. Apply the same strategy to attack your opponent by forcing the movement of the pawns surrounding the king.

Timing of Trading the Pieces

Full use of a trading opportunity should be made when a piece of lower value can be traded in exchange for a higher value piece of the opponent. But such chances do not arise if you are playing against a skillful opposition. So, in most cases, only an exchange of equal value is possible and the decision should be made on whether the capture is worth the loss or not.

Without a clear-cut benefit, do not risk the exchange of pieces when you have an edge over the opponent. The attack is weakened by the factor of having lesser pieces in play and the defenders face the threat.

Trading should not be carried on when there is not much place to move your pieces in the opponent’s area. Only when the spaces open up, it is beneficial for the player to attack.

The pawn formation of the opponent can be affected by the trading done by the player. A situation where you can get a piece when your opponent is eligible for only a double pawn is advantageous in your cause.

Work on the Endgame

Concentration on the endgame should always be in the mind of the player from the very first move. Every move should be played with the determination to acquire the desired endgame result. For instance, a knight and bishop are considered to be similar in the initial stage. But, at the time of endgame, the knight would move slowly as compared to the bishop, which strikes with a single move. So, if a decision has to be completed on the trading of a bishop in place of a knight then think about the effect of the pieces during the endgame.

Pawn structure is also a critical element when it comes to the endgame. Usage of a pawn to capture a piece of the opposition will lead to exposure of file which in turn opens up the way for the movement of the queen and rooks. It may result in a double pawn that cannot be defended by either party. The endgame has to be well fought in this case.

Both, the short-term and long-term goals should be taken into consideration while making a move to emerge as a winner.

Concentration

A lapse of concentration is what the opposition is looking to exploit to dominate the game. A move that would cause trouble will be played making use of the lapse in concentration. It is essential to be alert all the time to have the game in control. If you are distracted, you may also make a move that you will end up regretting later in the game.

Chapter 3: Analysis and Puzzle Games

5. Strategy and Tactic

Since there is a clash of minds on the board, the tactic in chess strategy plays an important role. This is essentially a practical game from move to move. Do we not strive to implement our plans with the help of tactics? Of course, we have many definitions of combination, but: If a tactical motive is forced and is connected with the sacrifice, we say that a combination has been made.

How E. Lasker said: “A positional play is just a preparation for a combination.”

The general principle: whoever is the first to take the initiative will be able to impose his will on the opponent and dictate the pace of the battle. This is achieved with the help of threats that restrict the choice of moves of the opposing side. At the same time, all strategic and tactical ideas are subordinated to one main goal—to maximize the activity of pieces and achieve their harmonious interaction. How to achieve this is the main topic of this book.

The close connection between strategy and tactics is evidenced by the following example:

Paul Heuäcker 1930 Win

Let us start by evaluating the position. From the material side, the forces are equal. This position was probably preceded by a calm strategic struggle related to the idea of promoting pawns in the queens. However, from a positional point of view, white is better. Indeed, if necessary, the white king can control the past pawn and promoting square, the black king cannot do this. Therefore, the potential strength of the white pawn should be higher. Another important point is white to move; therefore, on occasion, they will be able to seize the initiative. Based on this assessment, we can draw a preliminary conclusion that, from a theoretical point of view, white’s position is preferable.

Wilhelm Steinitz believed that equal positions with equal play from both sides again lead to equal positions, and, therefore, the game to win is unreasonable. Only when one of the sides is out of balance, the other side has the right to play for a win. Steinitz even claimed that a chess player who is in a better position than an opponent must play for a win because, otherwise, his advantage could disappear. The problem is in the correct evaluation of the position.

Let us get back to our example. White should decide in his progress whether further advancement of the pawn is advisable or whether there are tactical paths that ensure its advancement. Does white have a plan? If 1. h7, then 1. … e4 and the black bishop will control everything. With his seemingly “logical” move, white breaks one of the most important principles—before making a move, one should take into account the countermeasures of the opponent.

Naturally, after 1. ... e4 “main enemy” the black bishop refutes our plan—promoting the pawn. The idea arises involuntarily: maybe should we attack the bishop? Based on this reasoning, a specific tactical idea is revealed.

1. Ba7! …

At first, is a sacrifice to distract the bishop. black cannot accept it, since after 1. ... B: a7? White immediately realizes his strategic plan, because the bishop is away from his sentinel post on d4.

1. … Bc3 2. Kc2 …

Again, the bishop does not get a break and is forced to retreat.

2. … Ba1

But how to increase pressure and keep the initiative alive? At first glimpse, it is not clear how to achieve this. Nevertheless, chess is a game of impossible possibilities. A stunning blow follows.

3. Bd4!! …

The idea of the blockade! It turns out that after 3. … ed 4. Kd3 the pawn is slowed down and the bishop cannot control the h8-square.

3. … B:d4 4. Kd3! Ba1

With a hope to play e5-e4.

5. Ke4! …

The “e” pawn is nailed to the e5-square, and the bishop, resting on its pawn, is hopeless to slow down white’s passed pawn (we usually call such bishops “bad”). Now white can realize his original plan—to promote the h-pawn into the queens.

So far, we have been dealing with provisions in which certain positional signs of one of the sides stood out, and we only had to win through a planned action (or tactical strike).

In practice, the matter is much more complicated. Positional advantage should be gained in a struggle. The process of a planned game can be divided into 3 stages:

1. Preparation for the general battle.

2. The struggle to achieve an advantage.

3. Realization of the achieved advantage.

The first, stage begins in the opening. The second, most complex one, begins in the Middlegame. And decisive importance is the desire to get ahead of the opponent with the seizure of initiative. It is especially important to identify the importance of strategy, the knowledge of numerous skillful methods of interaction of forces. In the third stage, the one who achieved success in the previous stages reaps the fruits of the advantage.

The first 2 stages have their own specific goals, their laws of the methods used. In the opening, we primarily try to develop the figures. After we managed to mobilize forces, the game goes into a Middlegame, which largely depends on how the opening was set. In the Middlegame is a clash of plans, a contest in search of the truth—whose plan is better. It is also typical that the kings in the Middlegame are not active, but of course, we have exceptions. Moreover, they have to be defended, and the attacks of the kingside are one of the main goals of the plans.

At first, we will analyze endgame positions, where one of the opponents has a material or positional advantage. This will provide a clearer picture of the plans. The book also contains studies, for example, Kubbel’s studies. Their solution develops tactical skills, analytical abilities, etc.

Before the first homework, I would like to give a piece of advice: try to devote at least an hour daily to solve tasks. Work carefully and intently. Only after finding and writing down your solutions compare it with the text in the book. I want to emphasize again—try to solve the task on your own. This will permit you to better master the most important principles and ideas of the endgame.

Homework

6. Pawn Structure—The Skeleton of the Position

The pawn structure makes up the skeleton of the position, since pawns go only forward, pawn advancements can lead to the formation of weak squares in your camp. Let us examine the next classical example:

Kon—Rubinstein Sankt Petersburg, 1909

Black to move

It is not difficult to evaluate the position: the on f3 created a gap in the white camp. The h2 pawn is isolated, and to protect it you need to draw a piece. However, the more significant factor is that the h3 square is not protected and accessible to enemy forces. Also, such weakness allows the active side to choose an object for an attack—the point of least resistance.

Follows next plan:

1. The black king goes to h3.

2. Since the white king will be bound by the defense of the h2 pawn, he cannot prevent the advancement of black pawns.

3. To advance the pawn to g3, the black king will get access to the white pawns after exchanges and win them.

Black follows the advice of the famous master and theorist of the 18th-century Filidor: The pawns should be advanced by phalanges.

By the way, this famous quotation belongs to Filidor: “Pawns are the soul of chess.”

Kh1 g4 11. e4 f: e 12. f: e h4 13. Kg1 g3 14. h: g h: g

White resigned because after the exchange the e4-pawn is lost.

We return to the starting position and imagine that we managed to put back the f3-pawn to g2. The situation would have changed in a moment—the pawns would be in the same row, reliably defending all the invasion fields—on f3, g3, h3, and stopping the invasion of the enemy piece. If we will advance the g2-pawn only one square—g3 in the white camp appears “holes” on f3 and h3. In practice exists such pawn configurations in the early stages of the game, but in this case, the bishop is usually located on g2. This fianchetto bishop not only covers the gap in its camp but also puts pressure on the center along the diagonal h1–a8.

In any case, caution must be exercised with pawn moves, pawns do not move back, and created weaknesses are not easy to fix!

Lasker—Consultants Moscow, 1899

Black to move

Black has 2 positional weaknesses in the camp: the isolated e5-pawn, which can easily become the object of attack by the white king, and white can create a passed pawn on h-file.

Before continuing with the explanations, I want you to imagine how the white’s plan unfolds on the board in stages:

At first, white push his pawns on the kingside.

The white king goes to the center, attacking the e5 pawn.

White creates a passed pawn on h-file.

Then white advances the past pawn and sacrifice it to distract the black king from the protection of the e5-pawn;

The white king wins the e5-pawn and invades the black’s camp.

1. h4 a5 2. g4 a4 3. Kf2...

The white king goes into the center to attack the e5 pawn.

4. ...a3 4. Ke3 Ke6 5. Ke4

The object of the attack is not only an isolated pawn. The square in front of it turns out to be weak, and the enemy’s pieces can easily invade.

5. ...Kf6 6. c4 b6 7. c3 Ke6 8. h5 gh 9. gh Kf6 h6

The black king is overloaded: he is not able to hold the h-pawn and hold the e5-pawn.

10. ...Kg6 11. K: e5... and black resigned.

Opocensky—Prokop Prague, 1942

White to play

Kings stand against each other. This is the instinct of “self-preservation”—the king who will be forced to retreat will open the way. Moreover, this will lead to defeat. The most curious thing is that in such positions, the side that should not make a move takes a more advantageous position! In a word, the king that is forced to make a move loses so-called opposition.

White’s winning method is to put the opponent’s king in a zugzwang position. Regarding the evaluation of the position, it is not difficult to establish that the white king is more active, and since the black pawn on c6 cannot advance (1. ... c5? 2. Kd5). White has more waiting moves and this ensures the victory.

1. g4 Kd7

While the f6 square is protected, the opposition does not play a decisive role. Therefore, white aims to advance the h6 pawn and creating a gap on f6.

2. g5 Ke7 3. h4 Kd7 4. h5 Ke7

While the black king does not do anything, but soon his position will become a critical situation.

5. a4 a5 6. c4 Kd7 7. h6! g6 8. Kf6 Kd6 9. Kg7 Ke7 10. K:h7 Kf7

Victory provides an extra tempo: 11. c5! Black resigned.

Homework

Chapter 4: More Puzzle Games

7. Problems 1–49

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1. White to move

Answer: 16. Nxd5 (NxP) wins the pawn by taking advantage of the pin on the e-pawn.

2. White to move

Answer: 20. Qd6+ wins the bishop on c6.

3. Black to move

Answer: 2… Rh4 threatens mate-in-1 and 28. h3 only delays mate briefly: 28… Rxh3+ 29. Kg1 Qh2#.

4. White to move

Answer: 15. g5+ Kg6 16. h5#.

5. Black to move

Answer: 13… Nf3+ forking the king and rook.

6. White to move

Answer: 21. Qxg6 wins the rook for free because black’s f-pawn is pinned. Note that white couldn’t play Bxh4 because the bishop was pinned.

7. Black to move

(NOTE: Black is moving up the board).

Answer: 55… Rxd6+ winning the rook on h6.

8. Black to move

Answer: 42… Rxe4 (RxN) removing the defender of the queen. Qxc5+ and if white captures the queen first with 43. Qxe7 Rxe7 and black is a rook ahead.

9. White to move

Answer: 18. Bf5+ forking the king and queen.

10. Black to move

Answer: 21… Bb3! and the white queen has nowhere to go.

11. Black to move

Answer: 56… Nxe3+ and mate can’t be stopped. For example, 57. Kg1 Nf3+ 58. Kh1 g2# or 57. Kh1 Nf3 (threatening g2#) 58. Bh3 Kxh3 followed by g2#.

12. Black to move

Answer: 25… Rxc1+ (RxR) uncovering an attack on the white queen.

13. White to move

Answer: 25. Rd1 simultaneously pinning the bishop and attacking it a 3rd time. The bishop can’t be saved.

14. Black to move

Answer: 15…e2 forking the rook and queen. A key thing to realize is that 16. Re1 doesn’t pin the pawn because after 16… exd1=Q it’s the rook that’s pinned! I missed this in the game and almost instantly played 15… exf2+ as the 2nd move of a 2-move combination. Only a few weeks before this I had advised a novice at the club to never move instantly. Talk about not heeding my own advice!

15. Black to move

Answer: 14… Bg4!. Black would like to take the knight. This move breaks the pin and attacks the queen at the same time so that after say 15. Qe3 can safely play 15… axb5. Alternatively, white can give up the knight with 15. Nxd6+ Bxd6.

16. White to move

Answer: 34. Qd8+skewering the king and rook.

17. Black to move

Answer: 31… Qxf1 32. Kxf1 Rc1#.

18. Black to move

Answer: 25… Rxg2+ starts mate-in-3. 26. Kh1 Qxh3+27. Nh2 Qxh2#, or 26 Kxg2 Qxf3+27. Kg1 (or Kh2) Qg2#.

19. Black to move

Answer: 51… Bf6+! turning a loss into a win after 52. Kg3 Bxh5. This is an example of “removing the defender” where the defender isn’t actually removed, but just pushed away from the defense.

20. White to move

Answer: 47. Bb4+ forking the king and pawn.

21. White to move

Answer: 22. Re1 winning the bishop.

22. White to move

Answer: 16. Rfb1 wins the bishop. The bishop is now attacked twice and cannot move (and cannot be defended a second time).

23. White to move

Answer: 26. c6 forking the knight and the bishop.

24. Black to move

Answer: 31…Be7 trapping the queen.

25. White to move

Answer: 26. f4 forking black’s knight and bishop.

26. White to move

Answer: 21. Rd8+ Rxd8 22. Rxd8#

27. White to move

Answer: 17. b5 winning the knight. The knight can’t move as it is pinned against the queen by the rook on c1.

28. White to move

Answer: 13. Nxd5 nabs the knight for free due to the attack on the queen—Scandinavian (aka Center Counter) players beware the bishop on d2!

29. White to move

Answer: 17. Bh5 wins the exchange (rook for bishop).

30. White to move

Answer: 32. Nd6+ forks the king and the rook.

31. White to move

Answer: 22. Qh4 wins the black queen by threatening mate on h8. The only move to stop the mate is 22… Nh5 and white take the queen with 23. Qxe7.

32. White to move

Answer: 11. Nxd5 advantage of the reality that the c6 pawn is stuck. Of course, Nxd5 does more than winning a pawn as it threatens Nc7+ which will result in black losing at least a piece.

33. Black to move

Answer: 23… Rfd7 wins the bishop. The bishop is now attacked 3 times but only defended twice. If the bishop pulls back to c2 or e2, the bishop is still lost after 24… Rxd1+ 25. Bxd1 Rxd1+. If white plays 24. Bxe4 Rxd1+ 25. Be1 fxe4 and black are up a full rook.

34. Black to move

Answer: 19… Qc5 wins the exchange. The queen attacks both the rook and the knight. In the game, I (white) made what I thought was a clever attempt to get out of it, but I wasn’t as clever as I thought I was. I played 20. Nc2 (which in reality is probably the best move) but 20… Bb2 forks the rooks and wins the exchange.

35. White to move

Answer: 8. Qxd8 breaks the pin on the knight so that white can play 9. Nxe5.

36. Black to move

Answer: 15… Ne2+ forking the king and the queen.

37. Black to move

Answer: 24…Bxc5 grabbing the knight and uncovering an attack on the knight on e2. The game continued 25. hxg5 Qh8 26. bxc5 Rxe2 and black won easily with the extra knight.

38. Black to move

Answer: 5… c6 and the knight have no place to go.

39. White to move

Answer: 41. Qh5+ Kf8 (or 41… Ke6 42. Re3#) 42. Qxh6+ Kf7 43. Qg6+ Kf8 44. Qg8# (or 43… Ke6 44. Re3#).

40. White to move

Answer: 35. Rxc7+ wins the bishop. If black plays 35… Kxc7 white has 36. Bf4+ and 37. Bxh2 winning back the rook.

41. White to move

Answer: 15… Rxe5 wins the queen for a rook. Despite making this “winning” move, I lost the game. Ernest was usually rated about 400 points below me, but he was an always dangerous competitor and beat me more times than I care to admit.

42. Black to move

Answer: 33… Nc4 forking the rook and the bishop. Nxb2 35. Rxb2 Be5! winning the knight which is now pinned against the rook.

The best that white has is 34. Nf5 (or Nb5) Nxd2 35. Nxd6 Ra5! so that if white takes the knight with 36. Kxd2 black has 36… Rxd5+ followed by taking the knight on d6.

43. Black to move

Answer: 33… Bc5 34. Rad1 Rd6! followed by 35… Rxd4 winning back a rook. Black is now up 4 pawns and has an easy win.

44. Black to move

Answer: 43…Qe1#

45. Black to move

Answer: 22… Kg7—Defense! Defense! White is threatening Nh6+ forking the king and the rook. 22…Bf8 would also answer this threat but would allow Nxf6+, so Kg7 is the only good defense.

46. White to move

Answer: 24. Nxg6 (NxP) uncovering an attack on the queen to which black has no adequate reply. For example, if black plays 24… Qf7 or Qg7, 25. Re7 pinning the queen. If black tries 24… Qd8, white again plays 25. Re7+ and black is forced to play 25… Qxe7* 26. Nxe7 with mate in short order.

* If 25… Kxg6 26. Qg4+ Rg5 27. h5+ Kf6 28. Qe6#.

47. White to move

Answer: 50. h6. Saved by the fork! White wins due to the knight fork after 50. h6 Ra7 51. h7! Rxh7 52. Nf8+ followed by taking the rook. The continuation after 50. h6 in the actual game was: 50… Kf6 51. h7 Ra8 52. h8Q+ Rxh8 53. Nxh8 Kg7 54. Kf3 Kxh8 55. Kf4 Kg7 56. Kxf5 with an easy win.

48. White to move

Answer: 33. Ng6 wins the bishop. After 33… Bf8 white has 34. Rg8 pinning the bishop and attacking it a 2nd time and now nothing works to get blackout of trouble. If 34… Be7 white plays 35. Nxe7 winning the bishop and guarding the rook at the same time. Black’s best reply is 33… Bd6, getting a pawn back for the bishop—not much, but better than nothing.

49. Black to move

Answer: 35… Bb7! traps the knight and 36… Kf7 wins it.

Chapter 5: Openings

The opening ranks begin to mobilize as the pawns start their slow march across the board. Knights take to the field, aiming to thin enemy formations, while bishops begin seeking out the slightest chink in the opposing defense, ready to lash out and escalate the game into an all-out war. The opening game is where strategists begin laying out their elaborate plans, carefully preparing to spring them into action when the time arises.

In technical terms, the opening game is defined as the first few moves of play, where pieces are developed and formations assembled. If that doesn’t sound overly specific, it’s because it’s not. There are no absolute delineations between the phases of a chess game, and often openings and Middlegame will overlap.

Chess openings have been studied perhaps more than any other facet of the game, in no small part because many top-level games are won and lost in just the first few moves. Many critical exchanges can take place even in just the first few moves. Even if you’re not directly capturing an opponent’s piece, shutting down their best-laid plans can establish a dominating positional and mental advantage.

Like any stage of the game, there are boundless ways your opening strategy can take shape. While extreme high-level players study and memorize openings up to dozens of moves, there’s no need to be intimidated. While opening strategy is an important aspect of play at any level, it’s only one of several stages that make up the full scope of chess strategy.

There are millions of ways a chess game can evolve based on just the first few moves. Still, the most strategically sound openings have been divided into 3 basic categories: Flank openings, king’s pawn openings, and queen’s pawn openings. Each of these 3 categories branches out into dozens of divisions and subdivisions.

8. King’s Pawn Openings

From turn one, white has 20 possible opening moves, and the king’s pawn opening of e4 is widely considered as one of the most popular and efficient. This may take new players somewhat by surprise, as it seems to leave the king’s file exposed to attack. However, mounting a practical attack on the king remains largely infeasible, especially if white takes advantage of the opportunity to develop both their queen and bishop.

The king’s pawn opening begins with the white’s pawn moving to e4. From there, 2 more powerful pieces can quickly be deployed.

In addition to speeding the development of the queen, e4 is a strong opening because it establishes an early presence at the center of the board. While the downside of this is that white’s pawn is temporarily undefended, the player has an opportunity to quickly reinforce it with a robust formation of pawns and harder-hitting pieces.

After such a strong opening, how is black meant to answer? The most common answer to the king’s pawn opening is the Sicilian Defense of c5. This is one of the most common opening exchanges in all of chess. The stark difference in the strategy behind white and black’s opening moves in this scenario perfectly highlights the distinctions of playing as either of the 2 sides.

In the Sicilian Defense, unlike white, black’s first move to c5 does little to develop pieces. However, there are other substantial advantages.

Whereas white almost always holds an early lead by holding a default initiative, black must struggle both to halt white’s advantage and seize one of their own. Thus, while white’s first move in the king’s pawn opening focuses on asserting quick dominance and pushing a plan into action, the Sicilian Defense is a more reserved response. Black offers white the opportunity to take control of the kingside files quickly, but in exchange, a powerful phalanx of black’s pawns can dominate the queenside field. If black acts quickly, they can establish their zone of control while creating a thorny shield against white’s attack.

Alternatively, black may opt for the even more conservative Caro-Kann Defense, in which the pawn moves only one space to c6. This is generally a move favored by more strategic players who seek to establish a long-term positional advantage and are less concerned with opening exchanges.

Of course, some players prefer direct and immediate confrontation. If dynamic play is more of your style, you might answer the king’s pawn opening with e5 or an open game. White will often answer with Nf3, threatening black’s pawn, to which the most common response is Nc6. From there, white attacks the developed knight with Bb5, creating the Ruy Lopez or Spanish game.

In the Ruy Lopez opening pictured above, threats are made quickly, and both players must leap to action.

One of the fantastic things about the Ruy Lopez is that it offers several viable moves for both sides at almost every point throughout the game. In contrast to more formulaic approaches, Ruy Lopez offers quick-thinking tacticians a veritable buffet line of attacks and gambits to pursue. There are so many different chains of play that can arise from this opening that it has become one of the most studied phenomena in chess.

While king’s pawn openings are the most common in high-level play, they’re far from the only viable opening strategies. While opening the pawn on the queen’s file may not be as popular, it does provide some distinct advantages.

9. Queen’s Pawn Openings

Like the king’s pawn opening, this opening emphasizes controlling the center of the board from the outset. To begin the game by moving to d4, white prepares to develop the queenside bishop and potentially perform the more difficult queenside castling.

A classic evolution of this opening occurs when black responds with d5, and white proceeds to offer the queen’s gambit by moving another pawn to c4. Here, black is faced with a hard decision. They may choose to accept the offered pawn with dxc4, but doing so gives white total control of the center. Alternatively, in denying the bait, black allows white to pen them in.

In the queen’s gambit shown above, white seems to offer black a pawn, but the gift is poisoned with a difficult choice.

While the queen’s gambit was extremely popular in the early 20th century, developments in the hypermodern school led to an increasing number of players adopting the Indian Defense and its variations. With this strategy, black instead opts for the somewhat unusual first-round play of Nf6. Rather than confront white’s opening or even attempting to establish their center of power, black begins to develop an elaborate web meant to undermine white’s supposedly free development.

There are several possible progressions of the Indian Defense, but one of the strongest and most commonly seen in all levels of play is the Nimzo-Indian Defense. In this variation, black opts to remain flexible for several turns, delaying the building of their pawn structure with the sole intent of hindering white’s.

The standard Nimzo-Indian Defense evolves as such:

1. d4 Nf6
2. c4 e6
3. Nc3 Bb4

In the Nimzo-Indian Defense, black opts to quickly field their kingside bishop, knowing it will most likely be sacrificed in due time.

While both the king and queen’s pawn openings derive much of their power from establishing a strong presence in the center, there are always other viable options. The final main category of opening, called the flank openings, seek to exploit the very concept of central control.

10. Flank Openings

A reference to military flanking maneuvers, in which one force intercepts the other from the side rather than head-on; the flank openings avoid the center of the board and threaten from the sides. While any number of different opening moves could be considered a flank opening, the 2 most common are 1. Nf3, and 1. c4.

The simplest of the 2, 1. c4, is often referred to as the English opening. In addition to the obvious opportunity to field the queen, this opening also gives white several viable strategies to fall back on, making it difficult for black to counter. For example, white can easily shift back into a queen’s gambit or advance into the Réti opening to threaten from both flanks.

In stark contrast to the king or queen’s pawn openings, the Réti opening controls the center from outside, rather than within.

The Réti opening is itself normally played as a progression of the Zukertort opening—the name given to 1. Nf3. Much like the Indian Defenses, which also emphasize the quick deployment of knights, this opening is a strong example of the hypermodern school of strategy. In contrast to the classical school, which tends to engage in tactical play, hypermodern players tend to be more fluid strategists. The Réti opening exemplifies their belief that while the center of the board is an important strategic asset, it is controlled most effectively by outside threats rather than a direct confrontation.

11. Choosing Your Opening

You’ve familiarized yourself with the 4 most popular opening moves: 1. e4, 1. d4, 1. c4, and 1. Nf3. You’ve also learned ways to advance the game from these openings, whether you’re playing on the black or white’s side. While various masters have theorized on which of these strategies is the strongest, the truth is that no single sequence of moves will allow you to win every game or even most games. If that were the case, chess would almost certainly lose most of its appeal as a pastime!

Rather than searching for an answer on what the “strongest” opening is, ask yourself instead, what openings are most suited to your style of play? Do you prefer straightforward play rooted firmly in tactical prowess? The king’s pawn openings may serve you well, while the queen’s pawn openings and the queen’s gambit may be of use to those who enjoy a balance of flexibility in direct confrontation. Or, if you’re mostly interested in outmaneuvering and out-scheming your opponents, then the flank openings may be your most enjoyable path to victory.

You’ll also need to consider your opponent if you have enough information to do so. If your opponent has you outmatched in raw tactics, consider a slower-paced opening that will allow you to build out a secured strategy before engaging. On the other hand, you might counter a brilliant strategist with an explosive and direct offensive play that prevents them from setting up their elaborate plans. Above all, always try to keep your opponent guessing and on their toes.

The early exchanges of the opening can produce ripples that are felt throughout the game. However, don’t assume that losing your first battle means you’ve lost the war. Likewise, never assume that your opening strategy was so effective that you could begin to let your guard down. A game of chess can turn over on its head with just a few moves.

Unlike the openings and endgames, the Middlegame seems to be the least heavily studied area of chess strategy. However, if one thing is true in chess, it’s that no detail can ever be overlooked. As you read on, keep these opening strategies in mind, and consider how they can inform your play as we move into the next major phase of play.

Chapter 6: Opening Movements

The player’s first movements in a chess game are referred to as the opening or opening moves. A well-thought opening will provide control over different areas of the board, more opportunities to capture opposing pieces, and also better protection for the king. These moves are important because once you make mistakes in your opening and have a lot of your pieces captured then both your offense and defense will be weakened.

Throughout the years, the movements in a chess game have been studied and were then documented to help players step up their games. Here are some of the important things you need to bear in mind in doing your opening moves:

1. Open your game by moving either the d or e pawn to gain a claim of the center of the board. As much as possible, play in a way that you can control the center. By controlling the center part of the board, you will be able to adapt quickly to anything. Also, you will have a greater influence on the board and have greater mobility for your other pieces.

2. Only make one or 2 pawns move in the beginning. You do not want to advance all your pawns in the same line because it will just hinder the movements of your other pieces.

3. In positioning your pieces, try not to place them in a square that is prone to easy attacks. Otherwise, make sure that when you do, you have supporting pieces to counter the attacks.

4. If possible, try to position your pieces in such a way that they threaten your opponent’s pieces or in a way that makes it difficult for your enemy to develop strategic placements.

5. It is advised to position and develop your knights before the bishops because it is easier to see where the knights are allowed to move given their limited choices as compared to that of the bishop’s.

6. Do not bring your queen early to avoid being chased around. This will also help you avoid losing time trying to get away from any possible chase. The queen is a very useful piece that is why avoid having it captured early in the game.

7. You can bring your king into safety by doing the castling move.

8. Do not give away your pieces (even the pawns) without having a good reason behind it. Each piece is important in your game so be careful about every movement you do.

In addition to these tips and recommendations, here are some examples of simple and well-established chess openings that you might want to use during your game:

12. Ruy Lopez

This opening move is a favorite of several chess grandmasters such as Bobby Fischer and Gary Kasparov. It allows you to have a potential capture of either a pawn or a knight. While doing this immediate attack, you can also prepare to castle.

13. English Opening

The English opening is often considered as a flank maneuver because it starts the game quite differently. Remember that it is advisable to move a d or e pawn, but in this case, the white player moves the c pawn first with the hopes of gaining center control through building support on the side first.

14. King’s Gambit

This is one of the most popular opening moves in the 18th century. In this set of moves, the white offers a pawn in order so that more pieces can be moved out. It is moving one pawn from e2 to e4 and then followed by another pawn from f2 to f4.

15. Queen’s Gambit

This move is more likely similar to that of the king’s gambit where 2 pawns are set out to move. Again, this offers a venue for the rapid development of the other pieces. The first step is to move the pawn from d2 to d4. If the opponent mirrors your move, then take another pawn from c2 to c4. This second pawn serves as your queen’s gambit.

16. Dutch Defense

The Dutch defense is considered an aggressive and risky counterplay by the black piece because it creates weaknesses from the beginning. In this set of opening, a black pawn moves immediately towards the white’s kingside.

17. Center Counter

In this opening move, the black tries to counter white’s movement on the center area of the board. When the white moves a pawn from e2 to e4, the black answers by moving a pawn from d7 to d5.

While it is advisable to follow these things during the game, the movements of your pieces should also depend on a case-to-case basis. But to summarize the important points in doing your opening movements, you need to control the center, develop and position your pieces strategically, and castle as soon as you can to protect the king better.

18. Additional Tips and Reminders

Game chess is an addicting game and a lot of people get fascinated by it. A person requires both skill and strategy to succeed in playing this board game. After knowing the components of the game, the basic rules, and other important information about chess, what you need is to practice to improve your chess skills. It does not necessarily require one to be a genius to start playing chess. Here are some friendly tips and suggestions for beginners of chess:

- During your first few matches, you can record the moves you have made. In this way, you can analyze your strengths and weaknesses in every game and see if the same patterns occur in your games. Find out the moves you think were done wrong so that the next time you can improve your game and do better.

- To know more strategies and improve your skills in playing, you can study the games of different grandmasters. A lot of this information can easily be found online. You can watch videos and tutorials so that you can gain more insight into the game.

- Do not consider some piece’s inferior as compared to the others. It is important to remember that each piece has its value to your game. Do not directly consider your pawns as useless. If used properly, they can be very helpful in stepping up your gameplay.

- Also, don’t forget to use all the pieces on your board. Do not just keep moving 1 or 2 pieces around because it can give you a lot of checks. You need to utilize your whole army and maximize all possible means of winning the game. One mistake that beginners usually commit is the use of only a few of the pieces in the game. Keep your board alive by moving all your pieces during the game.

- The queen is the most important and versatile piece you have. Try to protect it as much as possible but if you ever lose it do not also think that the game is over and you have no more chance of winning. Some people being to play carelessly once they lose their queen. This is a wrong notion because other pieces are still present and besides, you still have pawns that can be promoted to a new queen.

- Before making any movements on the board, think about it twice and do not act on impulse. For beginners, your games are not usually under time pressure so you have the luxury to think about your moves properly to avoid mistakes. Analyze the best possible responses you can do with regards to your opponent’s move. Also, think about the possible moves your opponent might do to counter your moves. Constantly keep track of the moves done by both sides so that you can avoid making mistakes.

- Always be alert and maintain focus while playing. During the game, a lot of distractions may be present around. Try to maintain your attention on the game so that you can keep track of the movements on the board. Some people tend to relax and lose focus which is why they are prone to miss out on the moves done by their opponent. If you keep looking away, you might not notice that your opponent is already building a strategy to trap your king.

- Practice makes perfect. In almost anything you do, whether it is a sport or a hobby, you need to continuously practice to improve your skills from time to time. The same thing applies to chess. For beginners, it is advisable to practice regularly and have a partner to play along with and learn with. Patience is a virtue that is why do not get disappointed if during your first few matches you still find it hard to win. After some time, you will find it easy to read your opponent and create your game strategies as well.

Chapter 7: Middle Game

19. Protecting the King

It is best that at the beginning of the game that you start building defenses around your king. It will be difficult for your opponent to capture your king the more bodyguards you have. Keep this until the end as much as possible. Never move away from your king’s guards unless it is necessary. Remember, you can play without the guards, but never without the king.

This tip, however, cannot be used alone. You cannot keep on defending yourself without coming up with a strategy to catch your opponent’s king, or else, you might run out of chess pieces trying to defend your king. Whether you like it or not, it is also necessary to attack and find ways to capture more of your opponent’s pieces. This may be done by creating diversions somewhere else to keep your opponent’s attention on other things while you deal with other matters on the chessboard.

There are a lot of things going on when you play a game of chess. Despite this, always remember to stay focused on capturing the opponent’s king. It is very important not to be too confident, even if you feel that you are going to win. You will never know that this may be your opponent’s strategy.

20. Pinning

Pinning happens when a piece attacks and a defending piece is not able to move anywhere without giving away a more valuable chess piece on its other side to be captured by the attacker.

The defending piece is “pinned” when it is so restricted, and the action of attacking is “to pin.”

It is only possible for chess pieces with an indefinite number of squares, such as the bishops, rooks, and queens, to pin other pieces. The rest of the chess pieces cannot. Due to its importance, the only chess piece that cannot be pinned is the king. If it is, then the king is in check.

21. Material

There are point values assigned to each piece in a chess game. This determined how valuable each piece is strategical. Point values do not have a formal role in chess other than helping players evaluate positions.

Calculations made are only a rough idea of the state of play since the exact values will depend on the game situation or the position of each piece. This means that the values of each of the pieces can vary significantly in some game situations. A piece in the right position may be much more valuable than those indicated by heuristics.

22. Fork

The tactic wherein a single piece makes 2 or more direct attacks simultaneously is called a fork. When 2 pieces are threatened, this is usually called a double attack. The pieces that attack your side is called a “forking piece,” and the pieces taken are said to be “forked.” If the forking piece is of lower value, then it is possible that a piece that is defended can still be forked.

Material is the aim of capturing your opponent’s chess pieces. It is often quite tricky to defend yourself from a double attack with a single move.

Attacking an unprotected knight while setting up a battery of queen and bishop is a perfect example of using forking as a direct mating threat. In another situation, a knight attacks an unprotected piece while threatening to fork a queen and a rook simultaneously; this can be an implied threat. Forks are not used alone; this technique is often used together with other types of chess ploys additionally.

23. Exchange

The exchange or trading of chess pieces is when 2 pieces of closely related moves are captured. Any type of piece in the exchange can be captured, except for the king. Usually, the word “exchange” is used when the pieces that are exchanged are of the same or equal value, which then would be called an even exchange. Statistically, a bishop and a knight are more or less the same in value.

24. Mobility

There are many reasons why mobility is important. Mobility is important because when you check the mobility of each of your chess pieces; it gives you a better idea of what moves you should do next and lets you calculate your next moves.

A chess piece is stronger when it is more mobile, therefore it is more useful. When a piece has only a few places to go, it is possible to trap that piece. This is why mobility is so important. When a piece can’t move, it is useless. Situations like these are not uncommon and should be sought after to avoid. Knowing when this Zugzwang may occur can give you the winning advantage.

Chapter 8: Important Middle Game Principles

Essentially, the middle game aims to:

- Ensure the safety of the king.

- Force material and mobility.

The importance of these factors varies from game to game. For instance, the safety of the king is important and a serious issue and material advantage is irrelevant if at such a time the king is under a well-executed attack. Material advantage, on the other hand, is also an important consideration because while material advantage does not necessarily translate into a direct checkmating attack unless the advantage is large such as a rook or more, it can usually be decisive, and many players use it to gain more material and endgame advantage.

A king that has castled on the opposite wings with a queen that remains on board is often very violent primarily because, in such a position, both players will be on the offensive trying to attack each other’s kings.

In such a case, many players are unlikely to pay much attention to material consideration; most are likely to concentrate on attacking and are therefore likely to make smart pawn sacrifices in front of the opposing player’s king as a way to open up the game for the queen and the rooks.

If the chess game progresses to a point where it now has a static and locked pawn structure; such a game will see both players attack each other since they can choose to play on the side where their pawns are pointing, the side where they have more space.

In such middle games, lengthy maneuvers are common, and because time is not the main consideration, players attempt plays that develop their pieces while weakening the opponent’s pieces and positions. Such a middle game requires that you be uniquely aware of pawn break and take advantage of now available open fields.

In instances where one player seems poised to win (because he has a material advantage), he, the stronger player, is often free to flaunt the middle game principles we shall discuss shortly, as a way to get to the endgame.

As an example of this, the stronger player can trade queens even if it means a ruined pawn structure.

Because each middle game is unique, what we shall do here is outline some underlying principles that no matter how you play your middle game, will always come in handy.

25. Control the Center

White to Move

We have talked about this, or at the very least hinted at the importance of center control, in many instances in this guide. While it is not always mandatory to control the center, centralizing your pieces means you will have more control of the game because more than anywhere else, the centerpieces control the most squares.

You should always have this in mind, even though it is not mandatory to control the center, more so, when you are dealing with knights, because when well placed at the center they (knights) can control 8 squares; if cornered, they can only control 2 squares.

When you centralize a bishop, you have more control of the board (and mobility) than you would with a bishop positioned in the flanks. This principle also applies to other pieces such as the queen. When it is safe to do so, centralize your queen and the bishop. In the image above, you can see that the white player has centralized 4 pieces and thus, is in complete control of the center.

26. Centralize Your Pawns

White to Move

The general idea here is that, when necessary, you should be willing to sacrifice/trade your flank pawns for central ones, you now understand the importance of center control. From a gameplay perspective, central pawns are more effective than flank pawns simply because they [the central pawns] give you control of the squares d4-d5-e4-e5, squares that you can use to form a strong attack on the king and queenside, as well as the center. Control of these squares also helps to develop and support pieces, not to mention the increased mobility and space. Because of this, instead of trading your central pawns for flank pawns, do the opposite. In the image above, you can see that when white plays fxe3, he creates a strong pawn center with the pawns e-d-c.

27. Pawn Weaknesses Will Weaken You

White to Move

Pawn weaknesses, isolated, doubled, or backward pawns and holes, give your opponent an immediate edge that he can exploit to his advantage to dominate an otherwise equal endgame.

It is important to avoid pawn weaknesses, and thus guarding against endgame mistakes; you need to have complete command of your pawn structure as the game transitions from the opening to the middle game.

From the image above, you can see that both players have pawn weaknesses because while black has isolated pawns, white has backward and doubled pawns.

28. Use Pawns to Protect Weak Squares

Black to Move

The general idea behind this principle is to ensure that you avoid weak squares. Weak squares are squares that remain unprotected by pawns; they (weak squares in your position) allow your opponent’s pieces to create a strong outpost. When the weak square is closer to your king or the center, the more trouble it is.

Because pawn advancement is what creates weak squares, be mindful of your pawn structure, and always remember that pawns cannot double back. On the image above, you can see that the white player has a weak f3 square, which is next to the king, and that black’s knight or queen can use to make threats.

29. Use a Knight to Blockade an Isolated Pawn

Black to Move

While they are a weakness you should avoid, in the hands of the enemy, an isolated pawn is something an opponent can use to launch a commendable attack, simply because an isolated pawn provides extra space and supports other opponent pieces.

30. Use Rooks to Occupy Open Files

White to Move

Rooks are most effective when on open files; when you have an available open file, move your rook there if it is possible and then if it is possible at all, double your rooks on the open file.

If such a file is not open, use a rook to occupy a semi-open one, to force it open later. In the image above, you can see that white has a serious advantage since he has taken control of the open file.

31. Predicting the Opponent

When you have seized the initiative and done something to force the opponent’s hand, you narrow the likely moves that the opponent can make and this makes predicting his move easier. However, it is never possible to predict what the opponent will do. The trick instead is to be ready for anything he does. This requires that you predict, not your opponent’s actual precise move, but all of his likely moves so that you can have in mind what you will do in each case.

For example, let’s say you are playing white and are using a classic Ruy Lopez opening. Your move B-b5 sets up situation 1: your bishop is threatening your opponent’s knight. The knight is protected by a pawn, but if you make this exchange, black’s pawn position will be worsened, and you will have retained the initiative.

What will black do? Of course, you have no way of knowing exactly what he will do, but what you do know is that he has several decent moves in response. He can:

- “Put the question” by moving a6. This threatens your knight, and you must then choose whether to go ahead with the threatened exchange, or retreat.

- Move N-e7 (with the other knight). This protects the threatened knight with something other than the pawn, reducing the value of the exchange. It also develops black’s other knight, although not in an ideal fashion, at the cost of blocking his bishop. You are left with the initiative.

- Move N-f6. This ignores the threatened exchange, leaving you the option of going ahead with it or not while developing the other knight and threatening your pawn at e4. This is not a real counter-threat, because if you do take it, the black knight’s next move will necessarily be to take your bishop, leaving you with the initiative and able to do something about your threatened pawn; however, it does improve black’s position so that at the end of the exchange he will still have a developed knight.

- Move either b6 or g6, preparing to develop a bishop by fianchetto. This ignores your threat to his knight and leaves you with the initiative and to be able to either make the exchange or do something else.

- Move d5, threatening your pawn at e4, with a pawn rather than the knight, while strengthening black’s mid-board dominance. You have the choice of proceeding with the exchange or responding to the threat to your pawn with a different move.

The point here is not to know which of these moves your opponent will make. There’s no way you can do that, unless you know your opponent very well and can study what he’s done in similar situations in the past. Barring that, what you should do is keep all of these options in mind, so that you have a good strategy for follow up no matter which of them (or any others you can foresee) that your opponent chooses to do.

If you expect and are prepared for any move your opponent makes, then odds are you will win the game. You will be in a position to seize and retain the initiative, force favorable exchanges to achieve a material and/or position advantage, and set yourself up well for the end game and victory.

Chapter 9: Endgame

32. The King

The chess game that ends with a king and a pawn vs. a king is important to master. Most other endgames reduce this type via an exchange of pieces instead of ending it in a checkmate. Of course, it is quite beneficial to know ahead that this game would be a win or a draw. At the end of this game, we find out whether the pawn can be promoted to a queen and if a checkmate can be forced.

33. Pawns

Endgames involving pawns are seen by International Master Cecil Purdy as something very basic. “Pawn endings are to chess as putting is to golf,” he says. More often than not, an extra pawn is very beneficial to an endgame like this.

34. Classic Checkmates

One of the classic checkmates is called the 4-move checkmate. A lot of players choose to move a knight, which gives the player the upper hand in doing almost instant damage. Sometimes players choose to use their bishops and rooks. Some even choose to bring out the queen first to protect all others.

The 5-move checkmate is more difficult than the 4-move checkmate even if it has more moves. There are extra combinations with this move and that is why an extra move is allowed.

35. King and Queen

Getting your opponent’s king to checkmate is quite easy just as long as you have a queen involved. What you need to do to checkmate the king is to force him to the edge of the board. If you use your king and queen together, assuming you have a king and queen left on the board, it increases the possibility of stalemate.

36. King and Rook

A king and a rook endgame take longer than a king vs. queen. This is because the rook and the king have to work hand in hand to get the king to the edge. The most commonly taught technique is trapping the king into a box involving a rook, which of course is smartly protected by the king. The idea is to get the box smaller and smaller up until the point that the king is made to go into the corner.

37. King and 2 Bishops

The idea of checkmating a king with 2 bishops can be done in several ways, but it is usually done like the diagram shown below. Just like the rook vs. king, instead of boxing it in like a rook, the bishops are being sided by side to create a V instead of a box like a rook. The king has to be in between these pieces to protect them while moving closer and closer to the king.

38. King, Bishop, and Knight

For endgames involving a king, bishop, and knight, this is one of the ways it can end. With perfect play, the checkmate can be forced in almost 33 moves from any starting point on the chessboard. Only with the defending king in the corner can this be accomplished.

Chapter 10: Endgame Strategies

The endgame is the phase when minimal pieces are remaining on the board. At this stage, a pawn assumes a more prominent role as each player will strive to advance a pawn to the eighth rank and promote it to a more powerful piece. This is also the phase where the king takes a more active role in the game. A king takes the centerboard to attack opposing pawns, protect its pawns, and cramp the movement of the enemy king.

Here are Endgame strategies you can use to win your games:

- Use your rooks to restrict the movements of the opponent’s king. The long-range threat of a rook is very effective in keeping the enemy king from protecting its pawns or attacking your undefended pawns.

- Use your rook to defend your pawns and prevent the promotion of enemy pawns.

- If you have the advantage in material, simplify the board by exchanging pieces. As in the Middlegame, you’re not supposed to exchange your pawns.

- Escort a pawn to promotion. If there are opportunities to create a passed pawn, you should, by all means, clear the path for your pawn.

- The endgame is the perfect time to activate your king. You can use your king to attack undefended enemy pieces.

- Coordinate your pieces before pushing your pawns.

- Push your pawns on both flanks.

- While you can promote several pawns to have multiple queens, you should focus on taking advantage of any opportunity for a checkmate.

39. Double Queen Pawn Opening (Closed Games)

The Double Queen Pawn Opening is marked by the symmetrical moves 1. d4 d5 were both queen’s pawn advance to the center of the board. The 1. d4 move offers white the same level of potential for development as well as control of the center as 1. e4. It has a slight advantage, however, as the pawn on d4 is protected by the queen.

40. The Queen’s Gambit

The queen’s gambit is one of the oldest chess openings and probably the most widely used gambit. It is typified by the moves 1.d4 d5, 2. c4:

In this classical opening, white offers to sacrifice a pawn to gain a stronger center. Black has the option to take the c4 pawn or refuse the offer.

If black takes the gambit with 2.c4 dxc4, white is expected to respond with 3. e3. This move will not only provide support to the pawn on d4 but will free up the light square bishop to attack the black pawn on c4. At this point, white’s d4 pawn is threatening to advance and black will have to set its sight on making counterattacks to stall the advancing piece. After 3.e3, rather than risk bigger losses, black will have to concede the c4 pawn. For these reasons, the queen’s gambit is not a real gambit. It is, in fact, a very powerful opening for white and a popular one because of its attacking potentials. It is the perfect opening for players who want to put relentless pressure on their opponent. Now take a look at what happens when black decides to protect its pawn on c4 with these moves:

1. e3           b5
2. a4           c6
3. axb5       cxb5
4. Qf3

The queen is poised to capture the rook and black can only save the rook by blocking the attack with Bb7. white will take the bishop with Qxb7. Black may then proceed to protect the rook with Nd7 and simultaneously forestall white’s attack on the diagonal white line leading to his king. Here is how the Board would look at this point:

At this stage, white can press the issue and score a pawn advantage with Rxa7. On the other hand, black’s rook can move to b7 to threaten the queen and at the same time protect the pawn on b5. Now you see why the queen’s Gambit is so effective for white and why black would rather concede the c4 pawn. The queen’s gambit has many variations and black has better options when it decides to decline the queen’s gambit.

41. Slav Defense

The Slav Defense is one of black’s most solid defensive lines against the queen’s gambit. A popular opening in high-level games, it has many variations that allow players to be creative with their opening moves.

This opening is reached by the moves 1.d4 d5 2.c4 c6. Here is a diagram of the Slav defense:

Mainline: Slav Defense

1.d4 d5 2.c4

The plays open with the queen’s Gambit.

2…c6

Black responds with the Slav Defense, defending his d5 pawn with the c6 pawn instead of the e-pawn. This opens the diagonal line for the light square bishop.

3. Nf3

White develops his kingside knight with Nf3 and supports his d4 pawn.

3…Nf6

Black develops his kingside knight and defends the d5 pawn.

4. Nc3

White brings out the queenside knight and poses a double threat to black’s d5 pawn.

4…dxc4

Black responds to the knight’s threat by taking the c4 pawn.

5. a4

White’s move prevents black from advancing to b5 but leaves the b4 square vulnerable.

5... Bf5

Black develops his bishop and tries to prevent white from taking the e4 square.

6. e3 e6

Both sides open the diagonal lines for their kingside bishops.

7. Bxc4

White’s bishop recovers the pawn.

8...Bb4

Black’s dark square bishop pins the c3 knight to white’s king.

8. O-O

White castles and breaks the pin.

8... Nd7

Black develops its queenside knight.

9. Qe2

Queen defends the e4 pawn.

9... Bg6

Black anticipates white’s pawn on e4 and retreats.

10. Bd2

Bishop supports the knight on c3.

10... O-O

Black secures his king.

11. Rfd1

White’s rook defends the d4 pawn.

11…Qe7

Black’s queen supports its e-pawn.

12. Rac1

White develops queenside rook.

12…e5

Black pushes its e-pawn.

The Semi-Slav Defense

The Semi-Slav Defense is one of black’s most solid defenses against the queen’s Gambit opening. The sequence may vary but it can be reached with the following moves:

1. d4 d5
2. c4 e6
3. Nc3 Nf6
4. Nf3 c6

From black’s view, here’s an image of the Semi-Slav position:

Black creates a strong pawn structure around its d5 pawn but delays the development of its light square bishop. The position gives black a bigger space in the queenside.

Play usually continues with the Meran Variation which is the main variation for this opening:

5.e3

White opens the light square diagonal line and allows its bishop to defend the c4 pawn.

5…Nd7

Black develops its queenside knight and defends c5 and e5 squares.

6.Bd3

White develops its light square bishop, puts pressure on the b1-h7 diagonal

6…dxc4

Black captures c4 pawn.

7.Bxc4

White recovers pawn.

7…b5

Black threatens white’s bishop and expands queenside space.

8.Bd3

Bishop retreats and puts pressure on the b1-h7 diagonal.

8…a6

Black pushes queenside attack.

42. The London System

The London System is a strong opening that can be used by white against any black defense. White starts with the queen pawn opening but doesn’t proceed to the queen’s gambit. Its variations depend on how the black responds to 1.d4 but it usually ends in a closed game.

The use of the London system allows white to develop its dark square bishop and kingside knight early in the game. The setup offers white several options both in terms of attack and counterattack. It is extremely effective against the king’s Indian Defense as it leaves black with little space for maneuvering.

The most common line for the London system is marked by the following moves:

1. d4 d5
2. Nf3 Nf6
3. Bf4

Here is how the board will look after the initial moves:

From this position, white can opt to advance its c-pawn and e-pawn to strengthen its defenses around the center, develop the queen and other pieces, and strengthen the king’s safety.

The London System may also transition to the following lines where black opts to respond to 1.d4 by moving its knight to f6 and placing a pawn on the 6th rank of the g-file or e-file:

1. d4 Nf6 2. Nf3 g6 3. Bf4

43. d4 Nf6 2. Nf3 e6 3. Bf4

Chapter 11: Strategize

Chess strategy is the plan you develop to achieve your goals.

The first step in developing a good plan is to understand how to position your pieces. Each piece has different things it likes and dislikes. Piece placement preferences may change for each piece as the game progresses through its different phases.

A basic strategy for any position is to improve a piece’s placement by moving it to a better square. For each piece you should always be thinking about where the best square for it will be, how long will it take to get there, and can your opponent stop you.

Deciding when to trade or exchange pieces is important throughout the game.

To evaluate a position correctly, it is important to take into account the elements and types of advantages in the position: king safety, material, piece activity, space, and pawn structure.

There are different basic strategies to learn and apply in the opening, Middlegame, and endgame.

Most amateur chess players spend too much time looking at immediate moves (and tactics) and don’t spend enough time thinking about their overall strategy.

Before developing a strategy, you need to be observant and pick-up clues in the position, and look at the big picture. Keep an open mind to discoveries.

Look at the entire board, not just part of it, and don’t automatically just react to what your opponent is doing.

Always have a purpose for your moves, don’t waste moves or tempi, and think several moves ahead.

A few other general strategies are to use all your pieces, don’t give your pieces away, control the center, and keep your king protected.

Keep in mind that there isn’t always a “best” move. Some moves may be about the same and some may be much better than others.

Don’t follow general chess principles blindly. You always have to evaluate each position carefully and determine if the general principle holds or if an exception to the rule exists.

44. How to Think

Organizing your thoughts and knowing what you should be thinking about on your move and your opponent’s move is important to improving your game.

When it is your turn to move you should be looking at the details in the position. Here is a checklist to follow:

- In tournament play, write down your opponent’s move.

- Ask, “What is my opponent threatening?” Pretend you are your opponent with a free move and try to figure out what you would do if you were him. Remember he can threaten more than one thing.

- Determine your candidate moves. Candidate moves are moves which upon initial observation of the position, warrant further analysis. On average, there are about 5 candidate moves out of typically 25–35 legal moves. This is a fairly quick step as you are only identifying your main choices.

- Thoroughly analyze all candidate moves. This is a time-consuming step where you look as deep as you can into the position to find the best move. It is usually most efficient to calculate forcing moves first.

- Once you determine your best move, double-check it to make sure it isn’t a mistake. Make sure you aren’t blundering away a piece or walking into a checkmate. If your move is okay, go ahead and make it. If not, go back to step 4.

- When it is your opponent’s move you should be looking at the big picture. This is the time to look at strategies for both players and make observations about the position.

- Ask questions: where is the safest place for the kings, where should each player expand on the board, what is the best square for each piece, who wants to trade pieces and which ones, how are the pieces lined up for tactical patterns, what are each player’s dreams and goals, etc.

45. Piece Placement

Each piece has different strengths and weaknesses.

To develop a good plan, it is important to find the best way to organize your pieces as a group effectively.

Each piece may have different preferences in different phases of the game.

Pieces like to have mobility and options; you want each piece to play to its strength.

46. King

Proper positioning of the king is of paramount importance since checkmating him is the object of the game.

The king needs to be protected in the opening and Middlegame, but he can be used as an offensive or defensive piece in the endgame.

Because the king is valuable and slow-moving and the main battle usually takes place in the middle of the board, it is best in the opening and Middlegame to keep him away from the center.

Castling early in the game should be a high priority since castling moves the king out of the center to safety. Castling also develops a rook.

It is a good idea to avoid moving too many pawns in front of your castled king as this can leave him exposed and vulnerable to attack. Also, don’t move pawns on the side of the board where you plan to castle.

When an exposed king doesn’t get checkmated, often the defender has to give up material to survive the attack.

White’s king is safely castled.

White sacrificed a piece earlier in the game that forced black’s king to move and become a target on e7.

White can checkmate black’s king in 2 moves by playing 11. Bg5+ hxg5 12. Qxg5 mate or 11. Qg5+ hxg5 12. Bxg5 mate.

In the endgame, once the risk of getting checkmated in the middle of the board has passed, the king should move toward the center to join the battle.

This is called “centralizing” your king.

Normally it is safe to centralize the king once the enemy queen and about half of the opponent’s rooks, bishops, and knights, are captured since the risk of being checkmated in the middle of the board is reduced.

Black’s king is much better positioned near the center than white’s king and will capture white’s pawns on the queenside.

White moves his king toward the center by playing 54. Kf1.

Black will win the game by playing 54…Kb4 55. Ke2 Kxb3 56. Kd3 Kxa4 and advancing his queenside pawns with the support of his king.

47. Pawn

Pawns make up the backbone of your position.

In the opening, try to control the center of the board with your pawns.

Pawns in front of a castled king should generally avoid moving forward since this exposes the king unless you are creating left.

Although they are the least valuable piece, take good care of your pawns and try not to lose them, as they are the only piece with the potential to promote into a queen.

Promotions usually occur in the endgame when the opponent has fewer pieces on the board to stop the pawns from promoting.

When a pawn promotes, the vast majority of the time you want to promote to a queen, since she is the most powerful piece. You don’t need lots of extra queens; usually, 1 or 2 is more than enough to win the game. The risk of stalemate is much higher when you have additional queens on the board.

Pawns can be strong or weak depending on their positioning on the board concerning the other pawns and pieces. They prefer to be positioned side by side, like at the start of the game, because they can protect each other when they are on adjacent files. pawns in front of each other on the same file don’t have this ability.

White is a pawn ahead in this position that illustrates the different types of pawns and pawn structures. Adding knights, bishops, rooks, or queens to the position doesn’t change how the pawns are defined.

A passed pawn is a strong pawn because it can march across the board to its promotion square without running into an enemy pawn on the same file or the possibility of being captured by a pawn on an adjacent file. In other words, a passed pawn is a pawn that has passed all of the opponent’s pawns.

Black’s pawns on d3 and h5 are passed pawns.

Since it is protected by the pawn on g6, black’s h5 pawn is called a protected passed pawn. Protected passed pawns are stronger than ordinarily passed pawns because they have a friendly pawn to protect them.

The h5 pawn is also called an outside passed pawn because it far away from the center. The defending king has to travel further from the center to capture an outside passed pawn.

Isolated pawns are weak pawns that cannot be protected by a friendly pawn on an adjacent file.

White’s pawns on a2, a5, and g5 are isolated. The a-pawns are called doubled isolated pawns because there are 2 of them on the same file.

White’s 3 pawns on the e-file are not isolated, because the pawn on d4 is on an adjacent file and can provide protection. These pawns are called tripled pawns and are weak because they cannot protect each other. Tripled pawns are, however, stronger than tripled isolated pawns.

Base pawns are the weakest pawn in a pawn chain (where pawns protect each other diagonally) because they are the only pawn that is not protected by another pawn. Black has base pawns on a6 and f7. White has base pawns on c3 and e3.

A backward pawn is a specific type of base pawn, one on a half-open file whose friendly neighboring pawns are too far advanced to protect it. Backward pawns are especially weak when they can be attacked by rooks on the file. Black has a backward pawn on f7 and white has 1 on c3.

Pawns can have both weak and strong attributes. For example, although technically not an isolated pawn because black has a pawn on e6, black’s passed pawn on d3 acts like an isolated passed pawn. The weak, isolated attribute is dominant in this case because of the proximity of the white king.

Pawn islands are another important feature of a pawn formation.

Imagine rivers running up and down the files where each player has no pawns. Each cluster of pawns that is divided by the water is referred to as a pawn island.

Open files (rivers) from white’s perspective are the b- and f-file. white has 3 pawn islands.

From black’s perspective, the only file where he doesn’t have any pawns in the c-file. This river divides his pawns into 2 islands.

Since pawns can only protect one another on their respective islands, when both players have the same number of pawns, it is generally better to have fewer islands.

Chapter 12: Tactics to Support Your Strategy

Every move in chess matters and each of these moves can greatly affect the outcome of the game. It’s also because of this fact that all players strive to learn tactics that they can employ at any point in the game to get the results that they want.

48. Discovered Attack

Threats to the opponent’s pieces can come from anywhere within the board. Sometimes, the player can suddenly threaten their opponent’s piece by simply removing one of their own that is previously blocking it. This is called a discovered attack.

This kind of tactic is often employed if a player sees that, along with the threat to a valuable piece of his opponent, he can also get a check by removing one of his pieces from its initial location.

To better understand this tactic, here is an example:

White can threaten black’s unguarded queen. However, the knight is in the way. By moving that piece to f5, white checks black and suddenly reveals that the latter’s queen may be captured. This is what the discovered attack is. Whether the check is removed by capturing white’s knight or the king is moved to another square, black still gets to capture the opponent’s queen. A variant of this tactic is called the double check and is considered a more effective means of attack. In this tactic, 2 pieces are putting the opponent’s king in check; one check is from the removed piece while the other check is from the piece behind its initial position.

This image is a good example of how to double-check looks like:

This shows that the white’s bishop in d2 can check the opponent if his bishop isn’t blocking the path. By simply getting it out of the way, he can get the check. However, white can do a double check by moving the bishop to g5. It may seem redundant to have 2 pieces check on the same piece, but this tactic eliminates the possibility of getting out of check through blocking or capturing the piece that is checking it. With this tactic, the king is forced to move to another square just to get out of check.

49. Pins

All pieces in chess can be used to win the game. But what if they are rendered immobile? Surely, if this happens, they won’t be able to help the player achieve victory. This is what the pin tactic can achieve. This tactic is used to “immobilize” an opponent’s piece or pieces. This can be achieved by threatening their piece, but the opponent can’t move it out of harm’s way because doing so will expose a more valuable piece.

To better visualize this situation, here is an example:

In the image above, it can be seen that both knights of black are pinned. The d7 knight cannot move because his king will be discovered, while the f6 knight should stay put so that his queen will not be captured.

The d7 pin is also called an absolute pin, which happens if the piece being pinned is protecting the king. The f6 pin from the same image is called the relative pin. This happens when the protected piece is not the king but has a higher value than the piece being pinned.

Although the pin doesn’t always achieve the goal of directly capturing their opponent’s piece and reduce their overall power and board presence, it restricts the movement of the opponent. This somehow forces them to make unimportant moves because the important pieces in their plan are temporarily paralyzed. It can also result in an uneven trade if the player didn’t notice that he removed his protection for the more valuable piece.

Players have to keep an eye on possible pins, as this is a good way to effectively stop the opponent from picking up the tempo. The same is also true if you are the one planning to start on offense, as any pin from your opponent could ruin the momentum that you want to build.

50. Nets

Another tactic that is somehow related to the previous one because it can paralyze pieces is the net.

In this tactic, the piece isn’t directly threatened by the player. However, the piece won’t be able to move to another square because it will “get caught in the net” and captured (sometimes for free).

This image is a good example of what a net is:

In the image above, white has forced black’s king to g8. Now, that piece is in a net. Every other square where it can move will place it in check. Since it is white’s turn to move, all he has to do is to checkmate the opponent by moving his light bishop to c4 and claim that explosive win.

Although the image above appears to be close to a stalemate, it is not because it’s white’s turn to move. One simply has to be careful with the use of this tactic because having too much can cause a stalemate.

51. Forks

Hitting 2 birds with 1 stone is possible with chess! How? By using the fork tactic.

The main idea in this tactic is that 1 player moves his piece in a square wherein 2 or more pieces of the opponent can be captured. Since players can only make 1 move at a time, they have to make the hard decision of choosing which piece should be spared over the other.

This is an example of a knight fork. In the image above, white just moved his knight to f7. With this move, he can introduce a fork to black’s rook and queen. In this context, no matter what black does, he will capture something that has a higher value.

Here is an example of a pawn fork. In this image, it can be seen that when the pawn advanced to d5, it is now able to target the white bishop and pawn. Even if white’s pawn decides to capture the forking pawn, it will still be an equal trade for both sides. It will also remove white’s position in the center area, allowing black to claim this territory and set up a strong defense using the queen.

Using a fork in any part of the game is possible, even during the endgame. In this image, it can be seen that the white queen can use this tactic. He simply has to move it to e5 and it will check the king and threaten the rook. Black will choose the king. If he decides to move the king to a8 or a7, that’s the only time that white should capture the rook. Moving the king to c8 results in a checkmate. For this kind of example, make sure to not be blinded by capturing the rook. The checkmate is a better move.

52. Skewer

This tactic is somehow similar to the pin. This is because the idea behind the skewer is that the player usually attacks his opponent’s piece, but the piece that it is threatening has a higher value. The piece being threatened is covering another piece with a lower value. Once that piece moves, it will expose the other piece that it is covering and will make it available for capturing.

In this image, it can be seen that black’s queen can simply capitalize on the unguarded pawn on b4. However, he can capture a more valuable piece by moving it to a1. Once he does, a skewer will be observed. The queen can check the king. In case white chooses to block with his knight, it will be captured by black’s rook from d8 and eventually capture white’s rook on h1. This same result will also happen even if the king simply evaded the check and moving it to e2.

53. Destroying a Defender

These defenders are passively interrupting your plans and carry out any possible tactics during that moment. Thus, it should also be part of your tactics to check how you can eliminate defenders.

The image below will give you an idea of how this tactic is put into action.

Looking at this situation, it can be seen that white almost has a knight fork if placed in e6. However, he cannot do so because of black’s pawn in f7. In this case, white has to “sacrifice” to remove the defender. The best move for him is to capture the f7 pawn with his rook. Once he does, black will surely respond by capturing with his rook. Since f7 is now free of defenders, white can safely move his knight to that square, initiating the fork on king and queen. This will give white a material advantage, as his opponent will need to sacrifice the queen. Employing this tactic involves looking ahead, as getting a key defender out of the picture can make it easier for you to launch the offensive.

54. Driving off the Defender

A tactic that is closely related to removing it would be to drive it off. Attacking the defender and chasing it away performs the same function as removing it, as this will give you access to the square that it is previously defending.

To see how this tactic works, let us analyze the image below.

With this formation, it can be seen that white has a good position. He has developed all of his pieces and has pawns on d4 and e4 (which are both parts of the central area). However, if you look closely, it is black that can apply serious pressure in the middle because of its more intact formation. There is also a weakness to white’s defense in his e4 pawn, as it only has the knight on c3 to defend it. Knowing this, the best move for black is to remove that defender by moving his b5 pawn, putting it in range for capturing.

Now, black made his move. White can only respond by moving the knight to another square, as leaving it there will result in a material advantage for the opponent. With this knight out of the way, black can now capture the unguarded e4 pawn. This may be a small material advantage, but it did break down the claim of white in the center area.

Chapter 13: 7 Aspects to Focus on to Become an Expert Chess Player

55. Know the Rules and Play Lots of Games

If one aspires to be an expert player in chess, one should start by knowing the rules of the game and then by playing lots of games to gain experience. An expert player is the one who knows how to play the game well and has a practice in playing a lot of games. Experience makes it easy for an expert player to decide what moves are right in a given situation, and they know when to use them.

56. Practice With Chess Puzzles and Analyze Fundamental Endgames

An expert player has to know how the pieces move. Chess puzzles and analyzing fundamental endgames are helpful for a chess player in practicing what they have learned, especially in relating to an actual playing situation. Analyzing endgames that occur daily will help a player learn the principles and strategies of these situations.

57. Watch Your Back!

A player’s safety is very important in playing a chess game. If a player is careless, his pieces can be taken by the opponent. And this could lead to defeat. Always do your best to protect your pieces at all times.

58. Learn From Experienced Chess Players

There are no shortcuts in becoming a chess expert. One should find good teachers and learn from them. In this way, a player can learn the right way of playing and can avoid making the mistakes that new players tend to make.

In every chess game, the players have to make many decisions throughout each match. A smart expert player would always listen to their advisers to win a chess game. The best adviser is the one who knows what he is doing and has won before numerous times. So, if one wants to become an expert player in chess, it is better to listen only to those who are experienced than those whose advice is not worth anything because they do not know what they are talking about. Also, it would be helpful for a beginner in chess if his/her adviser has adequate knowledge on how choosing an opening move helps him/her gain an advantage or lose ground against a strong opponent.

59. Don’t Waste Time Playing Weaker Players

Some experts have been playing for many years. But they still cannot win over a beginner in chess. It takes more than just power to win a chess game. It is done by patience and carefulness in planning out moves to gain an advantage over one’s opponent. If one keeps playing against weaker opponents, one can lose their confidence in the game and this happens more often when a player loses because they believe that he has the talent to become a chess expert, but maybe he does not even have the patience and skill to learn from some experienced chess players who can guide him effectively to learn success methodically.

60. The attack in the “Middlegame”

Although chess is perceived as a game of defense, there are times when one should go out all guns blazing. For a player to become a chess expert, the player must know the difference between a passive and aggressive style of play. A passive player waits for his opponent to make the first move while an aggressive player has the initiative to seize control over the board. Both players should learn how to play defensively and offensively effectively.

61. Don’t Play Too Fast!

Playing too fast can result in one making mistakes. A player should know how to avoid playing too fast as they could lose some valuable pieces or get them trapped. A good chess player knows when to go slow and when to go fast in a game. The best players have learned from their mistakes and have become more skillful because of it.

Conclusion

In this book, you have learned about strategies for playing chess. This book also guides you on how to apply what you learned about advanced tactics, techniques, and moves in playing chess. This book also helped you to improve your endgame and turned you from an immediate to an expert chess player. This book also taught you the basics in which strategies should be applied. This book is a must-read for every chess player. This book is a valuable asset to every chess player who wants to improve their chess game and get promoted to be a veteran of the game. Chess books are not meant for casual chess players but for those who want to become veterans of the game. This book will help you gain experience in how chess pieces move, plan and think. Your opponent will not know what you intend to do until you make your move. This book is both a tactical and strategic study of chess. This book is a guide on chess strategy and tactics.

Apply what you have learned about chess in competitive level tournaments. If you want to be successful in playing chess, you must be willing to learn the art of chess. You will encounter a lot of challenges and hurdles when you play chess. What makes a good player is that he knows how to transform his mistakes into success. Chess is not only limited to learning basic rules but also includes strategies, tactics, skills, and techniques needed for every game. It is important to take note of your mistakes and improve on them. Turn your mistakes into success will be a good trait for every chess player. Good students learn from their mistakes and turn their weaknesses into strengths. Do not forget to analyze your game after each match. You will notice a big turnaround in improving your skills in playing chess just by analyzing your games after every tournament.

Your objective in playing chess is to achieve success by winning games against other players. The more you play chess, the more you learn about the strategy and techniques that are used in playing chess. By becoming a better player, you will see improvements in your skills and knowledge to play this game called chess. There are no shortcuts in playing chess, what is needed is hard work and dedication. You cannot achieve success if you do not put the effort into playing this game called chess. By staying focused on playing chess, you will be able to acquire knowledge in this game. It is important to keep a positive mindset when playing chess and it is also important that you have the right attitude towards competition. You will notice improvements in your skills and knowledge in playing chess by being committed and participating in playing tournaments.

Chess is a game where it is not only focusing on how you play but also on the decisions you make. Your decision in each move will determine your success and failure. It is important to know that every chess player has their style of playing chess. You have your strengths and weaknesses just like other players. This book will guide you on how to play when you are in a checkmate position. You have learned all the basics about chess.

Chess Exercises

The Workbook With Tactics, Puzzles And Strategies. 501 Exercises To Learn Basic Concepts, Develop Your Strategy And Improve Your Chess Level

Table of Contents

Introduction

Chapter 1. Thinking Techniques

Chapter 2. Attack Preparation

Chapter 3. Important Things to Keep in Mind

Chapter 4. Exercises 1-115

Chapter 5. Exercises 116-230

Chapter 6. Exercises 231-345

Chapter 7. Exercises 346-417

Chapter 8. Rules of Chess Tournaments

Chapter 9. Chess Puzzles 417-446

Chapter 10. Past Games Plus Exercises 446-480

Chapter 11. More Tactic Exercises 481-501

Conclusion

Introduction

To help you to understand the following text, we should introduce the book you are going to read. Its title is a conjunction of two words, Chess Exercises. The first word tells something about the content of this book: Chess means that this book contains exercises, i.e., chess problems with solutions. Their aim is to develop your skills in solving typical chess problems or puzzles (so-called tactical positions).

The second word in the name of the book is Exercises. This word tells something about its structure. When you read the book, you will find there some chapters, each of which contains a large number of exercises arranged in groups.

The above introduction should help you to understand the structure and aim of this book. To read it properly, we recommend that you don’t skip any part of the introduction: its obligatory parts are marked by bold font style for your convenience.

The book contains two main parts. In the first part, you will learn about the structure and types of chess problems. This knowledge will help you solve them faster and more efficiently, i.e., with fewer mistakes. The second part consists of groups with many exercises on typical tactical themes. Each group is devoted to a particular tactical theme or idea. It is recommended that you solve these exercises one by one from the first (easiest) to the last (most difficult). You will learn to solve typical tactical positions in a fast and efficient way and your skills in solving such problems will grow significantly. When you progress from the first to the last exercise of a group, you should have no problems with solving similar problems on your own (from now on).

The exercises are arranged by difficulty level. The easiest ones are at the beginning of each group, they are followed by more difficult exercises, and this trend continues until the most difficult ones appear at the end of each group. This way you will master the skills of each difficulty level and you will be able to solve even the most difficult problems on your own.

The exercises are designed to test your knowledge of and abilities in solving typical chess problems or chess puzzles.

You will find it difficult to solve many exercises. But the more difficult problems are solved, the easier they become. You should start with the easiest ones to overcome your initial difficulties and learn what difficulties there are in solving a problem. You will get adequate feedback and your confidence in solving such problems will grow.

Before you begin solving the exercises, it is recommended that you read through all the hints given in them. If you don’t understand some of them (or if you wouldn’t have understood them without the help), then it is very likely that you wouldn’t solve them and would have made mistakes. In this case, you should repeat those exercises from the beginning. You will learn to overcome your initial difficulties and you will solve more difficult problems on your own.

When you solve a problem, it is very important that you do it thoroughly. You should read through each hint in order to get all the relevant information about solving a problem and how to do it properly.

Thinking Techniques

Spotting strategies and checkmates could be a fundamental ability that all great players require. This ability can be made strides by working through puzzle books, and there are many of these avaiable. The books by Heisman and Nunn are two great later illustrations of such books.

Purdy offers a straightforward considering help for spotting combinations, counting checkmates. His brief run of the show is:

“In any position, display or future, see around for all conceivable checks, all jump-checks, and especially all jump-mates.”

In Purdy’s framework, “jump-moves” are moves that would be conceivable in the event that each piece might bounce over anything in its way and might not be captured. Purdy gives cases of how to utilize this run of the show for making strides in strategic vision.

Calculating varieties precisely is a basic ability, and usually available in different books. Kotov’s book is the spearheading content in this range. His book has been the subject of reactions and expansions since it was distributed. The books by Nunn and Soltis offer later exhortation.

Symbols

The following symbols are also used.

x

capture

+

check

#

checkmate

!

good move

!!

brilliant move

?

bad move

??

blunder

1–0

White wins the game

0–1

Black wins the game

The side to move on a diagram is denoted by a white or black circle on the side of the diagram.

Great Secrets

Secret 1: Think! Do Not Hurry!

Chess is a very deep intellectual game. The young chess player still lacks the knowledge and experience to find the right move in a short period of time.

Even the great masters, when they play in Blitz mode, are sometimes very difficult views. If you look at the rest of the time in the games of young chess players, you can see that they do not spend even 20% of the time dedicated to thinking.

They often play games with classical time control (45 minutes per game) in just 5-10 minutes. They quickly lose.

Secret 2: Do Not Miss a Long Time to Study Openings

Often beginner chess players devote much time studying openings, and sometimes they are interested in studying these trap openings.

The desire to win quickly and beautifully is quite understandable, but in most cases, this approach does not bring the desired result.

Practice shows that for a successful game at the initial level, it is not necessary to know the theory of OPENINGS. It is enough to know the basics of the game at the beginning. Knowing these principles, you can find the right moves early in the game, even without knowing the theory.

Openings are a huge amount of information. It is very easy to drown in them. You can spend a lot of time studying them, but most of these studies will not help you significantly increase the number of tournament victories and raise your level.

You also do not need to search for some kind of proper opening that will take the role of a "magic pill." This opening does not exist!

So, play different types of openings without deep soaking them. Try it, start the game with different initial movements.

You will become less predictable to your opponents in the early stages of the game, and will also teach you to browse different types of positions, which will increase its total strength in chess.

Learn the fundamental principles of the center of the board opening, development of pieces, among others, and over time they will realize on their own that you have a style that is unique as the great masters of chess. Each of them made history and acquired an especially unique and peculiar way to face their most aggressive opponents. Others are more defensive, tactical and strategists. And then when you realize what's your best way to move the pieces, one that makes you more comfortable, then they might lose some time with the same openings you already will be at a much higher level and assimilate more easily.

Secret 3: Learn with the Losses of Great Scholars

Let go of the training programs only, see some matches of the great masters.

Be sure to learn the game of great chess players. Start with the work of world champions. Find your best games with the comments of their own champions.

In the visualization process of the parties, it is useful to guess the next move. If you use a book, you can close the next move in the game with a piece of paper and then check your guess.

With the review process of each game, you will deepen your understanding of the game in all phases of chess: the opening, the middle game and the endgame. So, it's a very effective means of development for the beginner player of chess.

But unfortunately, this advice is overlooked by many young people and even experienced players. Be smarter than your competition! Learn the work of great chess players!

Secret 4: Do Not Enter in a Blitz Game!

This is one of the most important tips. Many novice chess players like to play online and live-in blitz for 5 minutes (and even less).

It's fun, exciting, dramatic, but extremely harmful, especially for chess beginners.

As a result of the blitz game, you have the ability to play quickly and thoughtless that will surely be transferred to a game with classic time control in major competitions.

The famous world champion Mikhail Botvinnik said he only played blitz games once in his life when it came to training.

As you can see, the lack of experience in blitz games did not stop him from being world champion for a long time.

Another world champion, Robert Fisher, said:

"Blitz kills your ideas!"

Do not kill a chess player! Play games with long control!

Secret 5: Play with Other Opponents "Live," Not Only Online

With the spread of the Internet, online chess game has become very popular. Remember that any online game will replace the "live" atmosphere when you sit directly in front of the opponents on the board.

Behind the chessboard, you will have completely different emotions!

It is very important that the young chess player accumulate chess experience offline! If you do not have the opportunity to play with a partner "live," then play with strong opponents online with a time control of at least 10 minutes per game and up.

Secret 6: Analyze Your Match! Learn in Your Bugs!

There will be more benefits of a well-considered part of that 10 played, but not analyzed.

If you do not understand why you lost the game, you are doomed to repeat the same mistakes in the future.

It is necessary to analyze not only the lost games but also the losers!

Even in winning games, you will always find at least inaccuracies. Only by analyzing your games, you can move forward in your development.

To do this, you need to learn chess notation as soon as possible. Get a notebook for your games. The partisan analysis will tell you what you need to work and identify your weaknesses.

Unfortunately, most young chess players are lazy and do not return to their own games. As a result, their progress is very slow.

Secret 7: Use Your Computer in Training Only for Learning Past Mistakes and Antheanalysis of the Gatherings

They are often asked, "Should I play with a computer?"

With strong chess programs, even the strongest masters stopped playing.

In this game there is not much point: the "iron buddy" will still hit you. You will gain all ratings and chess achievements in competitions in batches with people, so you need to train with another person, not a computer.

Gatherings with a man and a computer are developed according to completely different scenarios. With the computer, you will play up to your first mistake. After that, it will inevitably punish you. A gatherin with a live opponent is a real fight, in which an advantage can move from side to side several times.

Chess is above all, a sport. When playing with a computer, the sports component disappears.

We recommend using the computer only to study and debut as an assistant in the analysis of his own games.

Secret 8: Study Endgames!

Many chess players simply do not reach the endgame. They find it boring. At this stage of the game, the role of knowledge increases dramatically.

If you give serious attention to this stage of the chess, you will have a great advantage over their competitors.

Especially pay attention to the study of the tower endings, since they make up more than half of the end that usually occur in a chess game.

Often critical errors that affect the result in a game of chess occur at the very end of the game due to a lack of basic knowledge!

Secret 9: Do Not Throw Too Many Tournaments

Conventional wisdom: "Better fewer, but better"—suitable for chess.

Leave time to develop and think about your game.

Some chess players play in almost every tournament, but "stand still" because they do not spend time preparing and analyzing their own mistakes.

In addition, from very frequent tournaments, fatigue builds up and the "freshness" of thought is lost, which inevitably leads to a superficial game.

The world champion Mikhail Botvinnik said the following about it:

"To play successfully, you need to experience hunger chess."

Try to take part only in the most important competitions. Spend the rest of your time training and coaching.

Secret 10: Preparation Time

Today, chess is not just a game but a sport that requires a lot of stamina.

It is very difficult to sit for several hours on the chessboard and make the right decisions. All successful chess players pay close attention to their physical form. And you also need to do this.

Tennis and swimming are very popular among chess players. Wary of sports where there is a high probability of injury. In my first tournament used up from the table and cycle through the other it seemed to be a strategy to bewilder your opponent and show confidence just went realize that the more I concentrated and focused thus trying to take advantage of the opponent's time to make the next move would make me better prepare for college entrance and contest is a way to work your fitness when I say I have to prepare physically does not mean that you need to do a marathon or prepare for a TAF.

Attack Preparation

One of the attacker’s goals is to make the pawns in front of the defender’s king move in order to expose the king and create holes for his pieces to occupy.

The defender should generally avoid moving pawns in front of his king. Since pawns aren’t allowed to move backwards, often you can’t fix problems they may create by moving.

Having more attackers than the opponent has defenders is a key component of a successful attack as the extra pieces force the defender to protect multiple weaknesses.

The defender also has challenges defending his position when the players have opposite color bishops and the attacker has a well-placed bishop aimed at his king. The reason is that the aggressor has an extra attacker on the color of his bishop because the defensive bishop is unable to defend those colored squares.

The attacker usually focuses his attack on a square in front of the enemy king.

When Black castles on the kingside, the squares for White to target in front of Black’s king are f7, g7, and h7 (For Black, the corresponding squares are f2, g2, and h2).

The f2/f7 square is the weakest square near the king before castling because the king is its only defender. After castling kingside, it is stronger because the rook then becomes a second defender. f2/f7 can become a target once again after castling if the rook moves off the f-file.

Moving the g-pawn forward a square in order to fianchetto the bishop creates a hole on g2/g7 and by extension holes on f3/f6 and h3/h6 in front of the castled king. These holes can become severe weaknesses if the fianchettoed bishop is captured. The attacker often tries to eliminate the fianchettoed bishop by trading his bishop on that color for it by moving it to h3/h6 with the queen protecting it on the diagonal. Trading the fianchettoed bishop for a knight when the opponent has the bishop’s counterpart and his queen still on the board is usually a bad idea and can critically weaken g2/g7. Moving the g-pawn forward to fianchetto the bishop places the pawn on a square where the opponent can attack it quickly by pushing his h-pawn in an attempt to open the file. This is a common attacking strategy when the attacker castles queenside and still has a rook on the h-file.

The pawn on the h2/h7 square can also be a target for the attacker. The defender’s knight usually develops to f3/f6, giving the pawn an additional defender along with the king after castling kingside. One of the attacker’s goals may be to trade off or chase away the knight in order to weaken the h2/h7 square.

The h3/h6 square can become the target of a bishop sacrifice when a pawn moves there to attack a bishop that is often on the g4/g5 square pinning the knight on f3/f6 to the queen.

Holes Around the King

Black sacrificed both his rooks. White has holes on the light squares around his king.

Black invades these squares by playing 12...Qf3 threatening both 13…Qxe2 mate and 13…Qxh1+ 14. Ng1 Qxg1 mate.

13.Kd1 White’s king cannot escape. 13.0-0 Bh3 followed by 14…Qg2 mate or 13. Kf1 Qxe2+ 14. Kg2 Qf3+ 15. Kg1 Bh3 threatening 16…Qg2 mate.

13…Qxe2+ 14. Kc2 Qxc4+ 15. Kb1 Qd3 mate.

Only Pawns Guarding the King

White’s pawns on the kingside appear to sufficiently protect his castled king, but Black’s knight is nearby and both bishops and queen are aimed at him.

Black breaks in by playing 12...Bxh3!

13.gxh3 If White refuses the bishop sacrifice, he loses a critical pawn in front of his king.

13…Qg3+ The f-pawn is pinned to the king and cannot take the queen.

14.Kh1 Qxh3+ 15. Kg1 Ng4 with the threat of 16…Qh2 mate.

16.Nf3 16. Re1 Qh2+ 17. Kf1 Qxf2 mate.

16…Qg3+ 17. Kh1 Bxf2 with the threat of 18…Qh3+ 19. Nh2 Qxh2 mate.

18.Rxf2 Nxf2 mate.

Exposed King

White sacrificed a rook to expose Black’s king.

White continues his attack with 19. Qh5+.

19…Kg7 20. Qh6+ Not 20. Qxg6+? Kh8 pinning White’s queen to his king.

20…Kf7 21. Qh7+ Ke6 21…Rg7 22. Bxg6+ Kf8 (22…Ke6 23. Qh3 mate) 23. Qh8+ Rg8 24. Bh6 mate. If Black plays 21…Ke8 or 21…Kf8, then 22. e6 with mate soon to follow.

22.Qh3+ Preventing the king from moving to d7 in an attempt to escape to the queenside.

22…Kf7 23. e6+

Black played 23…Ke8.

Other losing moves are:

23…Kf6 24. Rf1+ Kg7 25. Rf7 mate.

23…Kg7 24. Bh6+ Kh7 25. Bg5+ Kg7 26. Qh6 mate.

23…Kf8 24. Qh6+ Rg7 (24…Ke8 25. Bxg6+ Rxg6+ 26. Qxg6+ Kf8 27. Bh6 mate) 25. Qh8+ Rg8 26. Bh6+ Ke8 27. Qxg8+ Rf8 28. Qxf8 mate.

24.Qh7 Qd6 25. Qxg8+ Bf8 26. Bg5 Preventing the king from moving to d8. 27.Bxg6 mate is threatened.

26…Qe7 27. Bxg6+ Kd8 28. Qxf8 mate.

Opposite Color Bishops in the Middle Game

White’s bishop has open diagonals on the light squares aimed at Black's king.

He sacrifices his rook by playing 36. Re7! threatening 37. Qh7 mate.

36…Bxe7 37. Qh7+ Kf8 38. Qh8+ Kf7 39. Ba2+ Taking control of the a2-g8 diagonal.

39…Kg6 40. Qe8+ Rf7 41. Qg8+ Rg7 41...Kf5 42. Be6+ Kf6 43. Qxf7 mate or 41...Kh5 42. Bxf7+ Kh4 43. Qg6 with mate soon to follow.

42.Bb1+ Kh5 43. Qxg7 Rxf2 Desperately launching a counterattack on White’s king.

44.Rxe7 White also wins with 44. Kxf2, 44. Re6, 44. Qg6+, or 44. Bg6+.

44...Qc5 45. Qxh6+! A queen sacrifice to finish Black off.

45...Kxh6 46. Rh7 mate.

Removing the Fianchettoed (Dark-Squared) Bishop

A downside risk of fianchettoing the bishop on the side you castle on is if that bishop is captured, holes are left around the king.

This can especially be a problem if the opponent still has his queen and bishop on that color.

19…Bg7 filling the hole as well as attacking White’s bishop on h6 was a better move for Black on his last turn.

White eliminates the bishop on b2 with 20. Rxb2!

20…Rxb2 21. Qd4 Attacking the rook on b2 and threatening mate on g7.

21…Qe5 22. Re1! Skewering the queen and rook.

22…Qxe1 23. Qg7 mate, 22…Qxd4 23. Rxe8 mate, and 22…Rb5 23. Rxe5 Rbxe5 24. f4 are all losing for Black.

f2/f7 Square Before Castling

After castling, the rook becomes a second defender.

White takes advantage of Black’s uncast led king by playing 11. Bxf7+.

11…Kxf7 12. Qc4+ Ke7 13. Nh4 Nb6 13...Kd8 14. Ng6 Rg8 15.0-0-0 gives White a lot of pressure for the piece which he will win back quickly.

14.Ng6+ Ke8 15. Bxb6 axb6 16. Nxh8 g5 17. Ng6 Bc5 18.0-0-0 Leaving White up the exchange with a powerful attack.

g2/g7 Square

The h-pawn can be a good extra attacker on the king. Moving it forward doesn’t expose the attacker’s king much since the opponent’s pieces can’t circle around the board to attack him.

White plays 20.h5 gaining a tempo by attacking the knight.

20…Ne7 21. Bxg7! Invading on the dark squares.

21…Kxg7 22. Qg5+ Ng6 22…Kh8 23. Qf6+ Kg8 24.h6 threatening 25. Qg7 mate.

23.h6+ Kg8 24. Qf6 with mate to follow on g7.

h2/h7 Square

A knight on f3/f6 is often a key protector of the h2/h7 square. White has a lot of pieces eyeing the Black king and the h7 square in particular.

White plays 17. Nxh7!

17…f5 If Black captures the knight with 17…Kxh7, White forks the king and queen by playing 18. Nf6++.

The game continued 18. Nhg5 with threats of 19. Qh5 and 19. Bc4. Black’s king is in trouble.

18…Qd7 18…fxe4 19. Bc4.

19.Qh5 Nf6 20. Nxf6+ gxf6 21. Qg6+ Kh8 22. Nxe6 Qxe6 23. Rxc7 White threatens mate on g7 and h7.

Important Things to Keep in Mind

While playing chess, try to see every position after every move as a puzzle! Opportunities may come once in a blue moon that you should never miss.

We have learned several tactics. You cannot gain anything by using just a single tactic, but by using multiple tactics that are suitable for a particular position. Also, note that you may need to use more than one tactic in a single position or even a single move.

Example of a combination of tactics:

Position 1: Pin, Decoy, and Deflection.

Position 2. Decoy, Fork

Position 3. Square vacation, Back rank, etc.

You will use all these tactics together wherever necessary.

If you’re solving a Pin type of puzzle, it doesn’t mean that you’re going to Pin something and win something!

You might be required to bring the piece to the bad square to pin it. That would include a Decoy and Pin!

A combination of tactics!

Try to understand the position properly by spotting the enemy’s weakness, your strength, and your weakness to defend. Pieces can be used in attacks, Pinned pieces, inactive pieces, etc. Try to start thinking about variations for better playing strength.

Do this not only when solving puzzles, but also while playing each and every move in chess as well, because each position after a move is a puzzle itself!

I’ve taught you how to think and solve any problem that pertains to the solutions of the tests below. If you can practice that way of thinking, you will reach a new milestone soon!

Hopefully, you understand these basic tactics in an advanced way!

With Chess Tactics, knowing is Only Half the Battle

There is a difference between knowing something, and being able to APPLY that knowledge.

On the off chance that your behavior doesn’t change, you did not learn anything.

Fundamentally, in case somebody tells you the ceiling is about to break down, you'll listen to the words—but unless you run out of the building to safety, you didn’t truly learn what the words implied.

Our “I get it” mechanism drives us to figure things out. That is very powerful and very important. But once we think we’ve figured it out, we say, “Okay, I get that. Now I can go on to the next thing.”

When you feel like you get something, but you don’t, that’s when you’re in danger.

The challenge with chess strategies is that the fundamental thoughts are fairly simple. There are as it were some essential strategic thoughts. So, it is simple for a chess player to think, “I know that.”

But to understand something well enough to use it, you have to know it inside and out, backwards and forwards.

I keep in mind looking at a diversion from a companion of mine some time ago. He missed a basic knight fork. I told him that he needed to work on knight forks. He was safe doing this since he felt he as of now knew what a knight fork was. I told him that obviously, he didn’t, since he missed it within the amusement!

When I looked at the game, the knight fork just jumped out at me. I couldn’t avoid seeing it. It would have been like seeing the Batmobile roaring down the street. There is no way I could have missed it!

That is the level that you want to get to with your chess tactics.

You want the chess tactics in your game to just pop out at you! And once you’re at that level, you can apply two or more ideas TOGETHER, making them really powerful—like combining a pin and a back rank mate threat or a fork and an overloaded piece!

Exercises 1-115

1. Abad Vines (1760)-Lebron Duran (1813) Aragon, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×g7# 1–0

2. Abrisqueta Zudaire (1570)-Aguinaga Ruiz (1952) Pamplona, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…R×e1# 0–1

3. Albuquerque (1858)-Farias (1539) Belem, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rb4# 0–1

4. Alcaraz Lopez (1820)-Agut Alvarez (1759) Barcelona, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qh6# 1–0

5. Aleknavicius (1615)-Vasiliauskas (1596) Kaunas, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×g7# 1–0

6. Alekseenko (1762)-Vidruk (1635) Chernivtsi, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×e7# 1–0

7.

Alev (1668)-Bal (1936) Antalya, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qf5# 0–1

8. Alonso Prieto (1507)-Densing (1807) Caleta, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Re1# 0–1

9. Alvear Zapata (1503)-Lopez Martinez (1648) Madrid, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rh7# 1–0

10. Ananias (1511)-Souza (1699) Joao Pessoa, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Nf3# 0–1

11. Ananias (1511)-Borges (1784) Joao Pessoa, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rb1# 0–1

12. Andjelic (1435)-Delevic (1765)  Bar, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qg5# 1–0

13. Andrade (1698)-Rivera Fernandez (1521)  Belem, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×f7# 1–0

14. Angel (1653)-Rata (1496) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rg7# 1–0

15. Anton Quevedo (1922)-Pareja Cerrato (1509) Madrid, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×f6# 1–0

16. Anton Quevedo (1922)-Baeza Escudero (1821) Madrid, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…R×c2# 0–1

17. Araujo (1979)-Frankental (1782) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qg7# 1–0

18. Raines Bruna (1890)-Miranda Herrera (1496) Aragon, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qg7# 1–0

19. Arteaga Medina (1639)-Rodriguez Perez (1894) Tenerife, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×g2# 0–1

20. Atipov Hadzhiev (1566)-Lerendegui Lasa (1929) Pamplona, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Nd3# 0–1

21. Avalos Arguello (1673)-Wilberger (1588) Asuncion, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Ng5# 1–0

22. Avellanas Pau (1861)-Bailo Remacha (1957) Aragon, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qd3# 0–1

23. Avila Lopez (1704)-Trabado Nieto (1700) Barcelona, 2014

Find the mate for White.

1.R×e8# 1–0

24. Ayala Abenza (1997)-Banzo Sabate (1552) Hospitalet de Llobregat, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qg8# 1–0

25. Babel (1484)-Pecorini (1637) Geneve, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×g2# 0–1

26. Bagvilas (1740)-Jeriominas (1456) Vilnius, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.g4# 1–0

27. Bajenaru (1183)-Voicu (1048) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Ne7# 1–0

28. Bajt (1405)-Herega (1514) Nova Gorica, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qh7# 1–0

29. Bakalov (1435)-Musikic (1735) Tri Buki, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qe2# 0–1

30. Balbys (1576)-Da Silva (1663) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rh2# 0–1

31. Banciu (1402)-Rata (1496) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rd8# 1–0

32. Bandza (1477)-Jablokov (1783) Vilnius, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qa1# 0–1

33. Basso (1895)-Guglielmi (1510) Napoli, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qc1# 0–1

34. Bernwald (1591)-Just (1914) Leipzig, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…N×f2# 0–1

35. Boldt (1846)-Auschkalnis (1708) Bad Woerishofen, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×f7# 1–0

36. Borger (1708)-Oliveira (1621) Sao Paulo, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qh8# 1–0

37. Borges (1849)-Santana Freitas (1574) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Nh6# 1–0

38. Bori (1596)-Aktas (1612) Antalya, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qf5# 0–1

39. Braje (1787)-Vega Lopez de Nava (1904) Neustadt an der Weinstrasse, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Ng3# 1–0

40. Brindza (1746)-Petrovic (1992) Subotica, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×a7# 1–0

41. Bruckner (1705)-Pilic (1488) St Veit, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…N×b6# 0–1

42. Bucinskas (1917)-Ivanauskas (1758) Lithuania, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×h2# 0–1

43. Burns (1847)-Dennison (1937) Harrogate, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qb1# 0–1

44. Caetano (1843)-Perondi (1538) Joinville, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Nf3# 1–0

45. Calderon Zuluaga (1694)-Argote Heredia (1960) Cali, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×b3# 0–1

46. Campos (1724)-Tramutolo (1421)Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rh7# 1–0

47. Campos (1724)-Ribeiro (1800) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.N×c7# 1–0

48. Campos Perilla (1500)-Arias Peralta (1449) Bogota, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×f7# 1–0

49. Cardena Contreras (1935)-Beekhof Harmsen (1561) Madrid, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×h6# 1–0

50. Carmo (1752)-De Oliveira (1800) Caldas Novas, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qf7# 1–0

51. Carmo (1618)-Vieira (1760) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Be6# 1–0

52. Carmo (1618)-Juliatto (1800) Pirai do Sul, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×h7# 1–0

53. Casar (1599)-Grobelsek (1594) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Ra8# 1–0

54. Cassi Gimeno (1700)-Sarrio Vendrell (1792) Barcelona, 2014

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×f5# 1–0

55. Cassou (1733)-Pontes (1805) Pirai do Sul, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×h6# 1–0

56. Cassou (1733)-Fassini (1700) Pirai do Sul, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×f7# 1–0

57. Castro Estrella (1417)-Exposito Perez (1448) Barcelona, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qa3# 0–1

58. Cavalheiro (1836)-Moreira da Silva (1827) Belem, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qd2# 0–1

59. Cedeno (1874)-Salcedo (1964) Bogota, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qe1# 0–1

60. Cezar (1501)-Do Prado (1723) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qc1# 0–1

61. Cezar (1545)-Da Cruz (1764) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×f2# 0–1

62. Chekletsova (1723)-Velichko (1927) Moscow, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qg2# 0–1

63. Chekletsova (1639)-Szurkos (1749) Budapest, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×g2# 0–1

6. Chekletsova (1723)-Lysenko (1504) Moscow, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…R×a2# 0–1

65. Chesa Chavarria (1770)-Miranda Garcia (1844) Aragon, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Be6# 1–0

66. Chiarotti (1818)-Nobrega (1741) Caldas Novas, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Bb6# 1–0

67. Chilton (1756)-Bullock (1563) Caleta, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qf7# 1–0

68. Chong (1994)-Tay (1638) Hong Kong, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×h6# 1–0

69. Cimperman (1762)-Jelen (1686) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Ra8# 1–0

70. Cimperman (1762)-Kodric Plevnik (1692) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.g3# 1–0

71. Cocchia (1835)-Giovine (1593) Napoli, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Ne8# 1–0

72. Coman (1466)-Ciolacu (1615)Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qg2# 0–1

73. Coronado (1710)-Gomez Ferreras (1523) Santo Domingo, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rc3# 0–1

74. Costa (1871)-Pinto (1793) Sao Paulo, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qf2# 0–1

75. Covrig (1563)-Banciu (1402) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qg5# 1–0

76. Craciun (1944)-Paun (1425) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×e8# 1–0

77. Creixans Comerma (1645)-Cort Hidalgo (1658) Barcelona, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rf1# 0–1

78. Creixans Comerma (1752)-Elias Arguelles (1638) Barcelona, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qg6# 0–1

79. Cruz (1863)-Goncalves (1480) Lisbon, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.g6# 1–0

80. Cruz (1863)-Antunes (1612) Lisbon, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rh8# 1–0

81. Cruz Beltran (1606)-Meza Galvan (1600) Bogota, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qc4# 0–1

82. Cuello Toledo (1868)-Dominguez Orono (1680) Montevideo, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qg3# 1–0

83. Da Costa (1544)-Rial (1625) Rio de Janeiro, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rd8# 1–0

84.Da Silva Filho (2000)-Chiarotti (1818) Caldas Novas, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rh6# 1–0

85. Damaceno (2000)-Nikolic (1997) Sao Paulo, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×f7# 1–0

86. Danovski (1409)-Zilakauskis (1619) Vilnius, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rc1# 0–1

87. Davidsson (1562)-Sinitsyn (1488) Drammen, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qd1# 1–0

88. Davidsson (1562)-Sorensen (1409) Drammen, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

Black missed 1…Qg3#.

89. De Araujo (1611)-Palhano (1945) Joao Pessoa, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…f2# 0–1

90. De Campos (1874)-Camargo (1742) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qf1# 0–1

91. De Freitas (1419)-Pereira Fo (1737)Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qh3# 1–0

92. De Moura Filho (1403)-Quaranta Neto (1973) Joao Pessoa, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…g3# 0–1

93. De Vilhena (1818)-Andrade (1698) Belem, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qh2# 0–1

94. De Villiers (1567)-Galant (1559) Gauteng, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Ra8# 0–1

95. Denes (1556)-Bonciu (1744) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qc7# 0–1

96. Diener (1705)-Pek (1830) Neustadt an der Weinstrasse, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qh8# 1–0

97. Diogo (1912)-Cavadas (1562) Lisbon, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qd8# 1–0

98. Djurovic (1473)-Raicevic (1762) Niksic, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×h2# 0–1

99. Do (1413)-Pham (1384) Ho Chi Minh City, 2014

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×h3# 0–1

100. Doan (1399)-Tran (1370) Ho Chi Minh City, 2014

Find the mate for White.

1.Qh7# 1–0

101. Doge (1544)-Sena Moura (1833) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Ne7# 1–0

102. Dolinar (1761)-Suligoj (1425) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×f8# 1–0

103. Dominguez Orono (1693)-Gomez Troccoli (1863) Montevideo, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qh1# 0–1

104. Dornelles (1980)-Ferreira Junior (1403) Joao Pessoa, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×g7# 1–0

105. Dos Anjos (1605)-Buiar (1800) Pirai do Sul, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rb8# 1–0

106. Dumitrescu (1471)-Nastore (1814) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×g2# 0–1

107. Dumitrescu (1471)-Radoi (1609) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rg8# 0–1

108. Dyga (1512)-Koerbel (1910) Hofheim, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Re2# 0–1

109. Elishev (1572)-Savage (1705) Gibraltar, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qh2# 0–1

110. Elliott (1729)-Monatisa (1545) Gauteng, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qb2# 1–0

111. Faderbauer (1619)-Bauer (1824) St Veit, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qe1# 0–1

112. Fan (1952)-Li (1525) Auckland, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.R×f6# 1–0

113. Faria (1727)-Santana Freitas (1495) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rh7# 1–0

114. Faybish (1595)-Rits (1419) Blankenberge, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rg8# 1–0

115. Ferreira (1431)-Serrano Martinez (1855) Lisbon, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qg2# 0–1

Exercises 116-230

116. Ferreira (1431)-Garcia (1832) Lisbon, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rh1# 0–1

117. Ferrera Ache (1728)-Vargas Ramirez (1796) Barcelona, 2014

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qf4# 0–1

118. Ferrero (1930)-Mangini (1732) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×d8# 1–0

119. Figueroa (1801)-Gomez Troccoli (1863) Montevideo, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qf1# 0–1

120. Filgueiras (1938)-Ikeda (1519) Joinville, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.R1h6# 1–0

121. Florez Castro (1797)-Arboleda Orozco (1914) Cali, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qh5# 0–1

122. Foth (1735)-Tanz (1629)Solingen, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qf8# 1–0

123.  Fraenzel (1809)-Gallas (1666) Solingen, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Na3# 0–1

124. Fuertes Cirauqui (1442)-Roldan Marques (1536) Pamplona, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×g2# 0–1

125. Fungueirino Pique (1693)-Castro Estrella (1417) Barcelona, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×g7# 1–0

126. Fungueirino Pique (1693)-Garcia Vidal (1475) Barcelona, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.R×a7# 1–0

127. Gallo (1873)-Esposito (1508) Napoli, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Ne6# 1–0

128. Galvan Perez Ilzarbe (1751)-Fuertes Cirauqui (1442) Pamplona, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Ra5# 1–0

129. Garcia (1832)-Damjanovic (1550) Lisbon, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rf8# 1–0

130. Garcia Diez (1911)-Ballesteros Jimenez (1592) Madrid, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Nh4# 1–0

131. Garcia Donoso (1678)-Fernandez Garcia (1856) Madrid, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×g2# 0–1

132. Garcia Serrano (1859)-Alameda Arellano (1507) Madrid, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Ne5# 1–0

133. Gheorghiu (1712)-Denes (1556)Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Ra5# 1–0

134. Gherghel Butan (1781)-Panainte (1861) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qg1# 0–1

135. Gillot (1941)-Barsegjan (1608) Blankenberge, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qh8# 1–0

136. Girdziusas (1409)-Povilaitis (1607) Vilnius, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qd4# 0–1

137. Girdziusas (1409)-Gurevicius (1683) Vilnius, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rh2# 0–1

138. Giusti (1440)-Toscano (1627) Napoli, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qa1# 0–1

139. Godoy (1800)-De Carvalho (1531) Pirai do Sul, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×g2# 0–1

140. Gomes (1996)-Arruda Filho (1826) Joao Pessoa, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.R×h6# 1–0

141. Gomes (1996)-Born (1425) Joao Pessoa, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Nf6# 1–0

142. Gomes (1817)-Damschi (1775) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Re4# 0–1

143. Gomes da Silva (1615)-Shimamura Silva (1417) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qd4# 0–1

144. Gomes da Silva (1615)-Weibull (1452) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qb4# 0–1

145. Gomez (1557)-Montoya (1507) Bogota, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×g2# 0–1

146. Gomez Ferreras (1523)-Ventura Ruiz (1930) Santo Domingo, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.R×f8# 1–0

147. Gomez Guardo (1935)-Murillo (1781) Bogota, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×g8# 1–0

148. Gordon (1483)-Laube (1925) Leipzig, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qh2# 0–1

149. Goriachkin (1898)-Ivakin (1763) Irkutsk, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rg8# 1–0

150. Grelier (1771)-Lucbernet (1916) Rochefort, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rd1# 0–1

151. Grobelsek (1594)-Novak (1627) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

Black missed 1…Nf2#.

152. Groselj (1604)-Premk (1511) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×f7# 1–0

153. Grubelnik (1527)-Vaupot (1593) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×e4# 0–1

154. Gruden (1826)-Skrbec (1613) Nova Gorica, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qf4# 1–0

155. Gruntovskiy (1483)-Balikoev (1738) Taganrog, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×g2# 0–1

156. Guegan (1738)-Laszlo (1894) Gibraltar, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rf2# 0–1

157. Guglielmi (1510)-Buonanno (1947) Napoli, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rf2# 0–1

158. Guia (1527)-Fernandez Vazquez (1995) Lisbon, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qa2# 0–1

159. Gundersen (1825)-Yilmaz (1566) Fagernes, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qb5# 1–0

160. Hak (1759)-Faja (1500) Kouty nad Desnou, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qf1# 0–1

161. Haugaard (1687)-Bucka Lassen (1594) Logumkloster, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×h7# 1–0

162. Heil (1890)-Neumann (1695) Braunfels, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×g8# 1–0

163. Hermann (1897)-Schoeber (1800) Hofheim, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Nc4# 1–0

164. Herrera Vargas (1748)-Julian Solera (1781) Barcelona, 2014

Find the mate for White.

1.Rh1# 1–0

165. Hirota da Silva (1938)-Da Silva (1688) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rf8# 1–0

166. Hoelss (1747)-Eg (1825) Hofheim, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×h2# 0–1

167. Horlock (1611)-Laszlo (1894) Gibraltar, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×f2# 0–1

168. Ibanez Camara (1626)-Molina Tabernero (1490) Barcelona, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.N×c4# 1–0

169. Idzeliene (1628)-Navickaite (1710) Vilnius, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qc7# 1–0

170. Ikejiri (1988)-Kojima (1467) Sao Paulo, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×d8# 1–0

171. Indriunas (1777)-Motuza (1411) Kaunas, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×f7# 1–0

172. Ipek (1644)-Gulbeyaz (1932) Antalya, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Be3# 0–1

173. Isik (1731)-Pektas (1933) Antalya, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…g5# 0–1

174. Jaen Gonzalez (1942)-Gonzalez Jurado (1929) Cornella de Llobregat, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qg3# 0–1

175. Jalinskas (1492)-Janulaitis (1907) Vilnius, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×g2# 0–1

176

Janulaitis (1907)-Girdziusas (1409) Vilnius, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rh×f8# 1–0

177. Javornik (1689)-Kitak (1621) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×f2# 0–1

178. Jelen (1909)-Skrbec (1613) Nova Gorica, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qf8# 1–0

179. Jereb (1605)-Ruzic (1479) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Ra2# 0–1

180. Jeriominas (1456)-Povilaitis (1607) Vilnius, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rh1# 0–1

181. Jersic (1736)-Siraj (1475) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×f7# 1–0

182. Jersic (1736)-Menciger Kocbek (1696) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qc7# 1–0

183. Juliatto (1800)-Boutin Neto (1801) Pirai do Sul, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Ra6# 0–1

184. Kaciusis (1677)-Toledo (1862) Montevideo, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…g4# 0–1

185. Kapoor (1540)-Lake (1709) Gibraltar, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qh7# 1–0

186. Kasperkiewicz (1975)-Celinski (1762) Warsaw, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×h7# 1–0

187. Kasperski (1788)-Kurowski (1809) Warsaw, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…c2# 0–1

188. Kasperski (1788)-Pesko (1802) Warsaw, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rf2# 0–1

189. Kaydanovich (1811)-Afanasieva (1914) Moscow, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qf3# 0–1

190. Kearsley (1687)-Sevillano Garcia (1816) Caleta, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qg2# 0–1

191. Kikuchi Cadilhac (1521)-Gomes (1792) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qh5# 0–1

192. Kitak (1621)-Averyanov (1503) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×h7# 1–0

193.Kitak (1621)-Polajnar (1663) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rg1# 0–1

194. Klevansky (1814)-Waters (1500) Gauteng, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×f3# 0–1

195. Klubal (1684)-Kosut (1815) Kouty nad Desnou, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Ra7# 0–1

196. Kodric (1624)-Groselj (1604) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rf1# 0–1

197. Kodric (1624)-Muzel (1500) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×g7# 1–0

198. Kodric (1624)-Radej (1632) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qd8# 1–0

199. Kodric Plevnik (1692)-Polajnar (1663) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…R×h3# 0–1

200. Kodric Plevnik (1692)-Jelen (1686) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×h7# 1–0

201. Koljevic (1620)-Rakic (1543) Bar, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Nd4# 1–0

202. Konstantinovskij (1992)-Schaefer (1813) Hofheim, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qg2# 0–1

203. Konstantinovskij (1992)-Vega Lopez de Nava (1907) Hofheim, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×g1# 0–1

204. Kopec (1713)-Martirosyan (1881) Kouty nad Desnou, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qa2# 0–1

205. Kosic (1753)-Herega (1494) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rh1# 0–1

206. Kosic (1753)-Kumin (1714) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qh6# 0–1

207. Kostov (1709)-Ivanov (1604)Sofia, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qe3# 1–0

208. Kumin (1714)-Selan (1668) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qg3# 1–0

209. Kusej Kolosa (1766)-Novak (1627) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rg8# 1–0

210. Kyshtymov (1992)-Ginzburg (1949) Irkutsk, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×h4# 1–0

211. Lai (1861)-Chong (1994) Hong Kong, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rf5# 1–0

212. Lajkovic (1666)-Kosem (1734) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qd×d6# 1–0

213. Lajkovic (1503)-Novak (1540) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×g2# 0–1

214. Lajkovic (1503)-Vaupot (1593) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rg1# 0–1

215. Lam (1883)-Kumar (1703) Auckland, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rb8# 1–0

216. Lanz (1797)-Wolf (1717) Hofheim, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qg1# 0–1

217. Lapanje (1500)-Lukac (1680) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qh2# 0–1

218. Lapanje (1500)-Premk (1511) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×a3# 0–1

219. Laperuta (1821)-Thomazelli (1763) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qg7# 1–0

220. Lauron (1796)-Baron (1975) Rochefort, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×g7# 1–0

221. Li (1436)-Hou (1635) Harbin, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…h×g5# 0–1

222. Li (1525)-Lu (1710) Auckland, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Ra5# 1–0

223. Li (1780)-Narayanan (1777) chess.com INT, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qh5# 1–0

224. Lim (1691)-Nylund (1477) Auckland, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rg5# 1–0

225. Lima (1425)-Desideri (1929) Sao Paulo, 2017

Find the mate for White.

White missed 1.Q×g6#.

226. Lisboa (1476)-Juliatto (1793) Pirai do Sul, 2017

Find the mate for White.

White missed 1.Ng6#.

227. Liu (1440)-Picken (1853) Auckland, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×g2# 0–1

228. Lopes da Silva (1592)-Juliatto (1793) Pirai do Sul, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qf1# 0–1

229. Lopez Diaz (1779)-Kuenitz (1690) Gibraltar, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

Black missed 1…Qf2#.

230. Lopez Mijail (1836)-Juzgado Niella (1625) Madrid, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×g7# 1–0

Exercises 231-345

231. Lopez Orellana (1754)-Diaz Begonte (1664) Madrid, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rh3# 1–0

232. Lukac (1680)-Radej (1632) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rh8# 1–0

233. Luksas (1689)-Dadurka (1474) Lithuania, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rg3# 0–1

234. Lupascu (1604)-Nistor (1464) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rh4# 1–0

235. Luz (1750)-Da Luz (1790) Teresina, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qg1# 0–1

236. Machacek (1579)-Kopec (1713) Kouty nad Desnou, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rh3# 1–0

237. Macias Reyes (1455)-Barrera Martin (1560) Las Palmas, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Bc4# 0–1

238. Madsen (1580)-Larsen (1459) Logumkloster, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qb8# 1–0

239. Maiboroda (1696)-Streblyanskii (1876) Zheleznogorsk, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qh2# 0–1

240. Makilla (1951)-Paeslack (1830) Hofheim, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×g2# 0–1

241. Mamani (1671)-Duran Luna (1654) La Paz, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rh8# 1–0

242. Marabajan Navas (1723)-Bes Alvarez (1734) Barcelona, 2014

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qe6# 0–1

243. Marcas Vila (1699)-Barragan Hernandez (1879) Barcelona, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rh2# 0–1

244. Marchal (1421)-Shimwa (1522) Blankenberge, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rd1# 1–0

245. Margarido (1854)-Dias (1650) Lisbon, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Nd5# 0–1

246. Markiewicz (1923)-Szewczak (1789) Warsaw, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qg8# 1–0

247. Marques Junior (1690)-Moyses Sobrinho (1963) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rd6# 1–0

248. Martin Diaz (1724)-Estevez Sacristan (1813) Madrid, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×f7# 1–0

249. Martinez (1714)-Fein (1607) Montevideo, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qh5# 1–0

250. Martinez (1812)-Silva (1773) Muriae, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qf8# 1–0

251. Martinez Carrasco (1636)-Sanchez Lucena (1431) Madrid, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qc1# 0–1

252. Martinez Pascual (1493)-Cortijo Manso (1518) Madrid, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Bc1# 0–1

253. Mastalos (1525)-Stepanencu (1753) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Re8# 1–0

254. Mauro (1598)-Radice (1796) Napoli, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×g2# 0–1

255. Meckel (1782)-Ehringfeld (1585) Solingen, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rh8# 1–0

256. Mendoza Barcia (1662)-Antonano Fedz Quincoces (1949) Aragon, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qg1# 1–0

257. Menezes (1886)-Lourenco dos Santos (1719) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×g7# 1–0

258. Meyer (1577)-Creixans Comerma (1645) Barcelona, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×f8# 1–0

259. Mihalev (1760)-Babatov (1709) Sofia, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rd7# 0–1

260. Milans (1881)-Riera (1465) Montevideo, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qd5# 1–0

261. Miranda Garcia (1844)-Bailo Remacha (1957) Aragon, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rh1# 0–1

262. Mirkovic (1707)-Dragojevic (1898) Belgrade, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Ra1# 0–1

263. Mitrovic (1950)-Sandor (1513) Niska Banja, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Nf6# 1–0

264. Molnar (1850)-Kimpel (1956) Austria, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rh1# 0–1

265. Molnar Gabor (1930)-Szirovicza (1529) Senta, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Be8# 1–0

266. Monatisa (1545)-Jacobs (1659) Gauteng, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rag1# 0–1

267. Moreno (1814)-Veljacic (1948) Montevideo, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rg7# 1–0

268. Moskwinski (1806)-Celinski (1762) Warsaw, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qd8# 1–0

269. Muzel (1500)-Premk (1511) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qh1# 0–1

270. Narvaez Talavera (1554)-Leon Sandoval (1709) Managua, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rh8# 0–1

271. Nazario Sebastiao (1565)-Camara (1832) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qe4# 0–1

272. Nazarova (1998)-Olsen (1513) Drammen, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qg7# 1–0

273. Nemeth Junior (1990)-Boutin Neto (1801) Pirai do Sul, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.N×g6# 1–0

274. Nguyen (1968)-Fjallheim (1695) Drammen, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qg6# 1–0

275. Nobre (1623)-De Aguiar (1769) Caldas Novas, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rh3# 1–0

276. Nobrega (1741)-De Sousa (1665) Caldas Novas, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Nf2# 0–1

277. Novak (1540)-Kodric (1624) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×f2# 0–1

278. Olivan Alvira (1550)-Arinez Bruna (1890) Aragon, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qc5# 0–1

279. Oprescu (1476)-Dumitru (1941) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qh8# 0–1

280. Otetea (1478)-Vorniceanu (1484) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×g7# 1–0

281. Otto (1823)-Itagyba (1692) Sao Paulo, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rh4# 1–0

282. Paganini (1939)-Salvatierra (1910) Rosario, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qg2# 0–1

283. Palkova (1915)-Voskoboynikov (1406) Marianske Lazne, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.R×d8# 1–0

284. Panainte (1861)-Mos (1566) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qe8# 1–0

285. Pareja Cerrato (1509)-Lopez Martinez (1648) Madrid, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qh7# 1–0

286. Patru (1444)-Nistor (1464) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×f2# 0–1

287. Paulini (1426)-Seichter (1772) Leipzig, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Re1# 0–1

288. Pavlovic (1529)-Teodorescu (1582) Niska Banja, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qf7# 1–0

289. Pena (1522)-Campos Perilla (1500) Bogota, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qg7# 1–0

290. Pereira (1766)-De Carvalho (1531) Pirai do Sul, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qf3# 0–1

291. Pereira (1766)-Xavier (1486) Pirai do Sul, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qc2# 0–1

292. Perez (1510)-Alfaro Mauricio (1919) Lima, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…d2# 0–1

293. Perez Olaguivel (1767)-Narva Mallqui (1967) Lima, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qaf7# 0–1

294. Perez Ramirez (1800)-Marcelo (1706) Barcelona, 2014

Find the mate for White.

1.B×b7# 1–0

295. Perondi (1538)-Both (1942) Joinville, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…e1Q# 0–1

296. Perrin (1537)-Hair (1877) Auckland, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qf7# 1–0

297. Petrovcic (1655)-Mihelic (1554) Nova Gorica, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rf8# 0–1

298. Petrovic (1933)-Petrovic (1753) Belgrade, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.g7# 1–0

299. Peyrer (1917)-Kienboeck (1400) St Veit, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rf5# 1–0

300. Pham (1956)-Phan (1453) Hanoi, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qh3# 0–1

301. Pham (1605)-Le (1461) Ho Chi Minh, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×f8# 1–0

302. Picken (1853)-Gold (1792) Auckland, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.B×c5# 1–0

303. Pinto (1418)-Cordeiro (1665) Luso, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qf2# 0–1

304. Piotrowski (1955)-Choroszej (1964) Warsaw, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Nb3# 0–1

305. Pogosian (1705)-Maam (1850) Hofheim, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Bg7# 0–1

306. Pontes (1805)-Pereira (1766) Pirai do Sul, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

Black missed 1…Bb4#.

307. Popa (1518)-Jakab (1984) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rh2# 0–1

308. Premk (1511)-Lukac (1680) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qg2# 0–1

309. Prisacaru (1595)-Mihalcescu (1498) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qf7# 1–0

310. Puertolas Serena (1832)-Hidalgo Gracia (1797) Aragon, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…b5# 0–1

311. Purificacao (1549)-Videira (1462) Lisbon, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×f8# 1–0

312. Puz (1747)-Kitak (1621) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×g6# 1–0

313. Radej (1632)-Groselj (1604) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Ref7# 1–0

314. Radej (1632)-Vaupot (1593) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rd8# 1–0

315. Radoi (1609)-Filip (1486) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rd1# 0–1

316. Radulovic (1829)-Djurovic (1473) Niksic, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qe8# 1–0

317. Ralchev (1622)-Bakalov (1435) Tri Buki, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×h6# 1–0

318. Ramirez Brizuela (1559)-Rocancourt Moreira (1817) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Re1# 0–1

319. Ramos Alvarez (1853)-Rodriguez Beltran (1601) Barcelona, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Re8# 1–0

320. Rata (1496)-Avadani (1563) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…b1Q# 0–1

321. Rata (1496)-Olinici (1455) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rb8# 1–0

322. Riera (1465)-Vinella (1784) Montevideo, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×b2# 0–1

323. Robinson (1807)-Turner (1955) Perth, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qd1# 0–1

324. Robson (1897)-Winter (1818) Caleta, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rf×e5# 1–0

325. Rocca (1643)-Zaruski (1951) Montevideo, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…R×g2# 0–1

326. Rodrigues (1825)-Silva (1559) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qb7# 1–0

327. Rodrigues (1780)-Rocha (1959) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×h3# 0–1

328. Rodriguez Bittar (1967)-Lopez Nunez (1877) Madrid, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…R×g3# 0–1

329. Rosado Perez (1767)-Esquivia Cuadrado (1725) Bogota, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×h7# 1–0

330. Rosero (1581)-Cubillos (1685) Bogota, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Re8# 1–0

331. Ruzickova (1515)-Ruzicka (1678) Marianske Lazne, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rh2# 0–1

332. Sanchez Lucena (1431)-Leniz Martinez (1721) Madrid, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Ne6# 0–1

333. Sanchez Perez (1552)-Obon Zuniga (1782) Aragon, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qf2# 0–1

334. Santana Freitas (1495)-De Haro (1972) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Nf5# 0–1

335. Santos (1772)-Ribeiro (1411) Luso, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×e7# 1–0

336. Sato (1542)-Noseda (1959) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Ra1# 0–1

337. Savoia (1774)-Skrbec (1613) Nova Gorica, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

Black missed 1…Rd3#.

338. Schlegel (1735)-Schwass (1458) Leipzig, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Bh6# 1–0

339. Schmidt (1714)-Tscharnuter (1606) St Veit, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rg8# 1–0

340. Seichter (1772)-Schlegel (1636) Leipzig, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qe8# 1–0

341. Sheppard (1831)-Bielby (1939) Wakefield, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×f1# 0–1

342. Shimamura Silva (1417)-Araujo (1979) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rh1# 0–1

343. Shimamura Silva (1417)-Minelli (1820) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qg2# 0–1

344. Shimamura Silva (1418)-Montufar Berrios (1943) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qc7# 0–1

345. Shimamura Silva (1417)-Vieira (1760) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×f8# 1–0

Exercises 346-417

346. Shur (1782)-Sych (1446) Moscow, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.R×f8# 1–0

347. Silva (1546)-Fonseca (1596) Luso, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rh8# 1–0

348. Silva (1765)-Dos Santos (1770) Muriae, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Rh3# 0–1

349. Simoes (1960)-Dias (1650) Lisbon, 2017

Find the mate for White.

White missed 1.Qc7#.

350. Smolej (1420)-Zrilic (1942) Rijeka, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Be7# 0–1

351. Soares (1846)-Sato (1542) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Ra3# 1–0

352. Sola Plaza (1866)-Rosa Gamez (1465) Pamplona, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qf8# 1–0

353. Solombrino (1829)-Mauro (1574) Napoli, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.B×d5# 1–0

354. Sousa (1479)-Lopes Silva (1776) Sao Luis, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Ng2# 0–1

355. Staudacher (1723)-Toenjes (1838) Neustadt an der Weinstrasse, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qe2# 1–0

356. Stone (1842)-De Souza (1645) Paulo Afonso, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×g2# 0–1

357. Strazisnik (1683)-Knavs (1581) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qh1# 0–1

358. Szurkos (1768)-Farkas (1432) Budapest, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qb3# 1–0

359. Tablan (1602)-Padurariu (1860) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qh1# 0–1

360. Taira (1656)-Furtado (1901) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Be2# 1–0

361. Tamang (1613)-Iyer (1752) Hong Kong, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×e6# 1–0

362. Tampea (1760)-Melinte (1513) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Bf6# 1–0

363. Tampea (1760)-Mihalcescu (1498) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qg7# 1–0

364. Taran (1425)-Dumitrescu (1471) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qg2# 0–1

365. Teixeira (1750)-Godoy (1800) Pirai do Sul, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×h7# 1–0

366. Ter Gevorkian (1927)-Burns (1847) Harrogate, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qf6# 1–0

367. Thienpondt (1955)-Gillot (1941) Blankenberge, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Bd3# 0–1

368. Thomazelli (1763)-Born (1454) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Ra1# 0–1

369. Tiganescu (1467)-Taran (1425) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×f8# 1–0

370. Tikhonov (1954)-Sakhyanov (1672) Irkutsk, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Ra8# 1–0

371. Tisaj (1949)-Kos (1735) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Ra8# 1–0

372. Tomiello (1779)-Zampronha (1725) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qg6# 1–0

373. Trabado Nieto (1700)-Jimenez Rimblas (1706) Barcelona, 2014

Find the mate for Black.

1…B×a5# 0–1

374. Trabado Nieto (1700)-Marquez Ramos (1700) Barcelona, 2014

Find the mate for White.

1.Rd8# 1–0

375. Tran (1402)-Ho (1380) Ho Chi Minh City, 2014

Find the mate for White.

1.Q×h7# 1–0

376. Tsyntsarski (1636)-Kosturkov (1679) Sofia, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qd3# 1–0

377. Ulian (1583)-Dumitrescu (1471) Baile Felix, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rh1# 1–0

378. Vakuliuk (1823)-Triantafillidis (1679) Neustadt an der Weinstrasse, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qe3# 0–1

379. Valdez Cruz (1464)-Coronado Paulino (1756) Santo Domingo, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qd1# 0–1

380. Valvag (1522)-Shehzad (1761) Drammen, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qa4# 1–0

381. Vanden Bussche (1901)-Vanduyfhuys (1888) Blankenberge, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qg5# 1–0

382. Vanegas (1414)-Leon Acevedo (1667) Bogota, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×b2# 0–1

383. Vaupot (1593)-Lukac (1680) Ptuj, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qh8# 1–0

384. Veestraeten (1606)-Partoens (1664) Blankenberge, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…R×f1# 0–1

385. Vencatasawmy (1835)-Goorsahye (1704) Mauritius, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qb1# 0–1

386. Vieira (1859)-Seccafim (1528) Sao Paulo, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rh8# 1–0

387. Vukotic Jovsic (1968)-Olano Lanchas (1690) Madrid, 2017

Find the mate for White.

White missed 1.Qd7#.

388. Waters (1500)-Moremi (1487) Gauteng, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qd8# 1–0

389. Wells (1931)-Wang (1913) Auckland, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qg5# 0–1

390. Wernberg (1669)-Davidsson (1562) Drammen, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qb3# 1–0

391. Wu (1948)-Zoehrer (1708) Austria, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×g2# 0–1

392.  Yazar (1505)-Can (1812) Antalya, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qd2# 0–1

393. Yenil (1619)-Duzme (1483) Antalya, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rh8# 1–0

394. Yilmaz (1566)-Nass (1909) Fagernes, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qe4# 0–1

395. Zahn (1863)-Frank (1949) Braunfels, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Qg3# 0–1

396. Zampier (1611)-Ribeiro (1800) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Rd8# 1–0

397. Zampronha (1725)-Boabaid (1857) Florianopolis, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Ra6# 0–1

398. Zevallos Garcia (1990)-Peris Morte (1921) Cornella de Llobregat, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Qh8# 1–0

399. Zitny (1761)-Jurasek (1947) Kouty nad Desnou, 2017

Find the mate for Black.

1…Q×g2# 0–1

400. Zykiene (1902)-Klepeckaite (1749) Vilnius, 2017

Find the mate for White.

1.Bd8# 1–0

401. Abrahamsen (1885)-Edvardsen (1969) Oslo, 2017

White now played g4?.

Find the mate for Black.

Position after g4?.

1…f×g4# 0–1

402. Abrosimov (1691)-Charkrubian (1914) Gelendzhik, 2017

White now played Ke8.

Find the mate for Black.

Position after Ke8.

1…Re6# 0–1

403. Alekseev (1858)-Sergeeva (1407) Ruzomberok, 2017

Black now played …Nb6.

Find the mate for White.

Position after …Nb6.

1.R×b6# 1–0

404. Algra (1481)-Tiggelaar (1521) Assen, 2017

Black now played …Kg8.

Find the mate for White.

Position after …Kg8.

1.Qh7# 1–0

405. Ali (1841)-Kvendseth (1865) Oslo, 2017

Black now played …Rf7.

Find the mate for White.

Position after …Rf7.

1.B×f7# 1–0

406. Almeida Silva (1798)-De Moraes (1700) Recife, 2017

Black now played …Rg8?.

Find the mate for White.

Position after …Rg8?.

1.R×h7# 1–0

407. Alvarez (1622)-Marin (1500) Cali, 2017

Black now played …c4.

Find the mate for White.

Position after …c4.

1.Qg3# 1–0

408. Alves Ferreira (1547)-Da Silva (1822) Recife, 2017

White now played Qxh8?.

Find the mate for Black.

Position after Qxh8?.

1…Qh2# 0–1

409. Andrade (1440)-Gomes (1529) Itajai, 2017

White now played Kd1.

Find the mate for Black.

Position after Kd1.

1…Rf1# 0–1

410. Araujo (1925)-Lima Filho (1894) Sao Luis, 2017

White now played Kh2?.

Find the mate for Black.

Position after Kh2?.

1…Qh4# 0–1

411. Assis da Costa (1665)-Massoud (1667) Belem, 2017

Black now played …Bc8.

Find the mate for White.

Position after …Bc8.

1.Q×c8# 1–0

412. Assuncao (1791)-Rivera Fernandez (1518) Belem, 2017

Black now played …Rg8?.

Find the mate for White.

Position after …Rg8?.

1.Qh6# 1–0

413. Azza (1445)-Ortiz (1728) Cali, 2017

White now played Kxh6?.

Find the mate for Black.

Position after Kxh6?.

1…Rh3# 0–1

414. Azza (1445)-Wagner (1772) Cali, 2017

White now played c4?.

Find the mate for Black.

Position after c4?.

1…Qe1# 0–1

415. Bach (1605)-Deppe (1843) Bad Homburg, 2017

White now played Kh4.

Find the mate for Black.

Position after Kh4.

1…Rh2# 0–1

416. Baeta (1968)-Ferreira (1818) Praia do Morro, 2017

Black now played …Rd4??.

Find the mate for White.

Position after …Rd4??.

1.Qg7# 1–0

417. Bai (1864)-Chen (1709) Ningbo, 2017

Black now played …g5??.

Find the mate for White.

Position after …g5??.

1.Qh8# 1–0

Rules of Chess Tournaments

Beginner chess players will be new to the scene of chess tournaments, and before beginners enter their very first tournament, it is important to note what rules they will be expected to follow. Playing official tournament games of chess is far different than just playing games of chess with family and friends. For those who want to take their chess playing seriously, it is essential to understand what they can and cannot do in a chess tournament setting.

Here is a basic review of chess tournament rules and regulations as established by the United States Chess Federation.

Pre-Game Preparation

The player controlling the black army of pieces will decide the set and board he or she wants to use for the game, as long as Black shows up on time before the round of play begins, and as long as Black chooses a set and board that is acceptable by official tournament standards.

Black can determine the type of clock both players will use for their game unless White has a specific preference. In the case of sudden death time control, a digital clock with time delay is the most recommended over any other kind of clock. However, non-digital clocks are accepted in tournaments.

Black will place the clock on either side of the board, whichever side is most satisfactory to him or her. This rule is enforced unless Black is tardy in showing up for the game.

White is allowed to set up his or her chess equipment if Black is tardy in showing up for a game.

Clock Management

Non-digital clocks are normally set at 5:00 in the case of G/60 time control. However, clocks may be set at 5:30 in the case of G/30 time control. These clocks need to be set to reach a 6:00 ending.

Regardless of what kind of time control your clock has, whether it’s G/60 or G/30 time control, there must always be a 5-second time delay activated in these clocks. Set the time delay of a G/60 time control clock at 55 minutes. Set the time delay of a G/30 time control clock at 25 minutes.

When Tournament Play Begins

The first step to take in proper chess etiquette would be to shake hands with your opponent when the tournament director officially allows all players to activate their clocks. The player controlling the black army of pieces always activates the clock for White.

If White is tardy when a tournament round game begins, Black is allowed to activate the clock.

If Black is tardy when a tournament round game begins, White is allowed to activate the clock, make his or her first move, and then press the button to put Black on the clock.

In-Game Conduct

It is forbidden for players to talk about their game with anyone, no matter who it is. If players need to take a restroom break, get something to drink, or need time to move around and stretch, they are allowed to do so.

Though players are not required to do so, they can announce check if they want to. Beginners are prone to announcing check. There is no need to announce check if players are in advanced tournament settings.

Players are not allowed to record any kind of chess notes during the span of a game, with the only exception being that players write down their moves on their score sheets.

As long as it doesn’t create a disturbance with others around you, it is acceptable to wear headphones and listen to music if you choose to do so. If others tell you that the music you are listening to is too loud, then turn down the volume or turn off your headphones altogether.

If you are bothered by the loud music of another player’s headphones, then you can ask your opponent to turn it down or turn it off.

Filing Reports to Directors

As long as it’s for a legitimate reason, a player wanting to make any kind of claim and see a tournament director must pause his or her clock so that it doesn’t run for them or their opponents.

Legal and Illegal Touching

If a player touches a piece, he or she is required to move that piece. If a player decides to touch an opponent’s piece with the idea of capturing it, then that player is required to capture that piece. If a piece is moved from one space to another and the player takes his or her hand off that piece, then that piece must remain on that space. This is the rule if it is your turn to move and your move is legal. If a piece is knocked down in any way by you, then say that you adjust and put the piece back on its original space.

You must say that you are adjusting a piece if it is your intent to adjust a piece. If you intend to remove anything that isn’t a piece off the board, then you must also claim that you adjust. This is only legal if it is your turn.

Unacceptable Moves

If an opponent makes a move that is illegal and then puts you on the clock, you are allowed to pause the clock and report this to a tournament director and ask for a time extension to your clock. Normally, all time extensions granted by directors are only 2 minutes.

If a player makes an illegal move but is discovered within a 10 move span, a player can pause the clock and report this illegal move to a tournament director. The player can then request for the original position before the illegal move was made to be reinstated. As a result, a time extension will be granted by the tournament director in favor of the player who reported his or her opponent’s illegal move. However, if the illegal move is discovered before the last 10 turns of each player, the illegal move will stand, and play must continue.

If either player has 5 minutes or less remaining on their clocks and an illegal move is discovered after two or more additional moves are made by the player who made the illegal move, then the illegal move will stay recorded, and no additional time will be given.

Promoting Pawns

If a player wishes to promote a pawn to a certain piece but that piece isn’t available, the player is allowed to pause both clocks to find that certain piece, borrow it, and place it on the chessboard.

5 Minutes or Less

If a player has 5 minutes or less remaining on his or her clock, this is also referred to as sudden death time pressure.

Both players don’t have to keep recording any more moves on their score sheets if they have 5 minutes or less remaining on their clocks. If any player wants to keep recording moves, then that player can.

Both players must press the buttons on the clocks using the same hand that moves the pieces if they are under sudden death time pressure.

The clock should never be moved nor picked up during the course of a game’s last 5 minutes.

If the Flag Shall Fall…

If a flag falls on either player’s clock, only the players of the game may bring attention to it. A fallen flag means that time has expired. Tournament directors don’t have the authority to make any forfeit claims by time expiration. Spectators should never bring any attention to fallen flags.

A flag is officially deemed as fallen when either player points it out. If a player makes a move that checkmates his or her opponent’s king, but then the opponent brings attention to the fallen flag on the checkmating player’s clock, the victory still belongs to the checkmating player. However, if the opponent brings attention to the fallen flag before a move is made to checkmate his or her king, then victory belongs to the opponent (or a draw is declared due to lack of material).

Before a checkmate is made, if a player makes the claim that both flags have fallen, the game is officially declared a draw.

Tournament directors can only confirm a game to be drawn after both flags fall.

If one player’s flag has fallen but his or her opponent lacks legitimate material to win the game, then the result is a draw. Lacking legitimate material involves a player having only a king, or having only a king and minor pieces like one bishop or one knight, or having only a king and two knights without any pawns remaining on the board.

Chapter 2.  Resigning from the Game

To officially resign from a game, a player has to tip over his or her king or verbally declare that he or she resigns. After this, the player can then stop both clocks.

After confirmation of the resignation, the player and the opponent shake hands. Whoever wins the game should be congratulated.

A player leaving a defeated position without officially resigning to the extent where he or she runs out of time on the clock is considered to be unsportsmanlike.

Resigning from positions that are clearly defeated is considered to be appropriate chess etiquette. Depending on the chess ability of a player, there are various proper times to resign from a game. Beginners are generally encouraged to keep playing until they are checkmated. More experienced players should resign from clearly defeated positions when they are sure they could even beat a master if they were playing their opponents’ side of the board.

Withdrawing from a Tournament or Skipping a Round

If a player must withdraw from a tournament or skip a round for any reason at all, that player must let the tournament director know well before the skipped round officially begins. The player must either verbally declare that he or she is skipping the round or a written note must be submitted to the director saying such.

Chess Puzzles 417-446

Puzzle #417

White to play

Answer to Puzzle #1

1. Nf6 dbl ch Kd8

2. Re8++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #419

Black to play

Answer to Puzzle #2

1. ... Rxg2+ dbl ch

2. Kxg2 Qf2++ (if 2. Kf1, then Qf2++)

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #418

White to play

Answer to Puzzle #3

1. Qxc6+ bxc

2. Ba6++ ____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Chapter 3.

Chapter 4.

Chapter 5.

Chapter 6.

Chapter 7.

Chapter 8.

Puzzle #420

White to play

Answer to Puzzle #4

1. Qxg7+ Kxg7

2. Rg5++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #421

White to play

Answer to Puzzle #5

1. g5+ Kxg5

2. Qh4++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #423

White to play

Answer to Puzzle #6

1. Qxf8+ Nxf8

2. Nxf7++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #422

White to play

Answer to Puzzle #7

1. Rc7+ Bxc7

2. Na7++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #424

White to play

Answer to Puzzle #8

1. Qf5 Qxb2 (or any move)

2. Qh7++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #425

White to play

Answer to Puzzle #9

1. Qxe6+ fxe6 (if 1... Be7, then Qxe7++)

2. Bg6++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #427

Mate in 3, white to play

Answer to Puzzle #10

1. Rxc5+ bxc5

2. Bc7++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #426

White to play

Answer to Puzzle #11

1. Nf5 Ng3+ (or any other knight move)

2. Nxg3++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #428

Black to play

Answer to Puzzle #12

1. ... Qb2+

2. Kd3 Qc3++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #429

Black to play

Answer to Puzzle #13

1. ... e2+

2. Rxe2 Bg2++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #440

White to play

Answer to Puzzle #14

1. Nf5+ Kh7 (or Kh8)

2. Rh6++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #431

White to play

Answer to Puzzle #15

1. Qxf8+ Kxf8

2. Re8++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #432

Black to play

Answer to Puzzle #16

1. ... Qdg7+

2. Ke8 Qhxg8++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #433

White to play

Answer to Puzzle #17

1. Ba4+ Kc4

2. Qd4++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #435

White to play

Answer to Puzzle #18

1. Qh5 g6

2. Bh6++ (or Qh6++)

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #434

Black to play

Answer to Puzzle #19

1. ... Rfh1

2. Rxc7 R8h2++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #436

Black to play

Answer to Puzzle #20

1. ... cxb dis ch

2. Qd2 bxa1/Q++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #437

Black to play

Answer to Puzzle #21

1. ... Rc6

2. Rxd3 (or any move) Ra6++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #438

White to play

Answer to Puzzle #22

1. Rh8+ Bxh8 (if, 1…Ke7, then Qd7++) or (if, 1… Kg7, then Qh7++)

2. Qxf7++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #439

Black to play

Answer to Puzzle #23

1. ... Qg2+

2. Kd1 Qc2++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #440

Black to play

Answer to Puzzle #24

1. ... Rxc5+

2. Kd4 Rc4++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #441

White to play

Answer to Puzzle #25

1. Rh5+ gxh5

2. g5++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #443

White to play

Answer to Puzzle #26

1. Rxh6+ gxh6 (if 1...Kg8, then Rxh8++)

2. Qxf5++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #442

Black to play

Answer to Puzzle #27

1. ... Qxf4

2. any move Qxh2++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #444

Black to play

Answer to Puzzle #28

1. ... Bf2+

2. Kxf2 Qe3++ (if 1. Kh1, then Qxf1++)

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #445

White to play

Answer to Puzzle #29

1. Ng6+ hxg6

2. Qxe8++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Puzzle #446

Black to play

Answer to Puzzle #30

1. ... e4+

2. Kd4 Rd2++

____ Correct 2 points____ Incorrect 0 points

Past Games Plus Exercises 446-480

Game 1 Fan (2000)-Taylor (1871)

Auckland, 2015, Réti Opening [A09], 0–1

1.Nf3

This is a flexible opening move with many transpositional possibilities. It is a particular favorite of former world champion Vladimir Kramnik.

1…d5

Black adopts a classical response. Many other responses are possible depending on the type of positions Black likes to play.

2.c4

White sticks with the Réti Opening. 2.d4 can transpose to many openings, particularly the Queen’s Gambit.

2…d4

This leads to a closed system. 2…e6 and 2…c6 indicate that Black is happy to play the Queen’s Gambit or Slav Defense.

3.g3 (D)

This is the most common move here. Demuth prefers the sharp 3.b4, while 3.e3 is another sharp move.

3…c5

Demuth and Djuric et al consider 3…Nc6 to be better.

4.Bg2 Nc6 5.d3 e5

Black has other choices here, including 5…Nf6 and 5…g6, and many of these moves will transpose. Black’s choices over the next few moves depend on the types of positions he prefers to play.

6.O-O Bd6 7.Na3 (D)

White can also play 7.e3, to break up Black’s central position.

7…f5

Black adopts an aggressive system. 7…Nf6 and 7…Nge7 are more restrained. The game Mamedov (2679)-Shulman (2617), Ningbo, 2011, continued 7…Nge7 8.e×d4 c×d4 9.a3 a5 10.Nbd2 O-O 11.Re1= (1–0, 96).

8.e3 Nf6 9.Nc2

9.e×d4 c×d4 10.Re1= is slightly better and restrains Black’s kingside pressure. Fan also tried 9.Re1 at this tournament, but he lost that game as well.

9…a5 10.Nfe1

White can break up Black’s central pawn mass with 10.e×d4 c×d4 11.Na3 O-O 12.a3=, with equality.

10…O-O 11.a3 Be6 (D)

12.Rb1

White prepares the b4-break. The alternative is to put pressure on the center with 12.e×d4 c×d4 13.Nf3 Bf7 14.Nh4, but Black can continue his kingside expansion with 14…Qd7 15.Re1 h6-/+.

12…a4

Also possible is 12…f4 13.e4 g5 14.Bd2 g4-/+, and Black has a strong kingside attack.

13.e×d4 c×d4 (D)

14.b4

14.b3 Qd7 15.Nf3 Bf7 16.b×a4=+ gives White some counter play on the queenside.

14…a×b3 15.R×b3 Qd7 (D)

Both sides continue with their plans.

16.Nb4

White continues with his queenside play. 16.Nf3 h6 17.Re1= restrains Black’s kingside play.

16…N×b4

16…e4 17.Nec2 Bc5 18.N×c6 b×c6 19.Re1 h6-/+ maintains Black’s strong central position, while White’s doesn’t have any entry points on the queenside.

17.a×b4 f4 18.g×f4?!

This move opens the g-file and exposes White’s king. 18.Nf3 Rae8 19.Re1 Bh3 20.Bh1= maintains his position.

18…e×f4

White is now weak on the kingside and has a cramped position.

19.Nf3

White creates a distraction by attacking the d-pawn.

19…Bg4 (D)

Black keeps it simple by stopping the threat. He could also ignore the threat by playing 19…Bh3 20.N×d4 (20.B×h3 Q×h3 21.Ng5 Qf5-+) 20…B×g2 (20…f3 21.Q×f3 B×h2+ 22.Kh1 B×g2+ 23.Q×g2 Be5-/+ is less convincing) 21.K×g2 Ng4 22.Qf3 Rf6-+, with a decisive attack.

20.Qc2??

Removing one of the defenders of the knight loses the game. 20.Bb2 Bh3 21.N×d4 B×g2 22.K×g2=+ keeps White in the game, despite his exposed King.

20…Bh3

Black has the simple threat of 21…Qg4-+.

21.B×h3 Q×h3 22.Qd1

White’s knight is undefended because of his faulty 20th move, and he has to waste a crucial tempo to protect it. 22.Qe2 Rfe8 23.Qd1 Ng4-+ is no better.

22…Ng4 23.Bb2 (D)

Question:

What’s the best move for Black?

See next page for the answer.

Answer:
Black has many ways to win and he played 23…N×h2!!. Other winning moves include 23…Rf6, 23…Rf5, 23…Ra6 and 23…Rae8, all of which lead to forced mates.
23…N×h2!! The immediate benefits of this move are that it wins a pawn and that it opens up the king’s position. More importantly, Black now has a forced mate.

24.Ng5

Other moves also lead to mate. A typical line is 24.B×d4 Qg4+ 25.Kh1 (25.K×h2 Rf5 26.Bf6 g×f6 27.d4 Rh5+ 28.Nh4 R×h4+ 29.Rh3 R×h3#) 25…N×f3 26.Q×f3 Q×f3+ 27.Kh2 Rf5 28.Bf6 Rh5+ 29.Bh4 R×h4+ 30.Kg1 Rh1#.
Black also mates quickly if White takes the knight: 24.N×h2 f3 (threatening 25…Q×h2# and 25…Qg2#) 25.N×f3 R×f3 26.Re1 Qh2+ 27.Kf1 Q×f2# (27…R×f2#).

24…Qh4 (D)

25.Nf3

25.f3 and 25.Qe2 hold on a bit longer.

25…Qg4+ 26.K×h2 Rf6!

Black brings the rook into the final attack. 26…Rf5! also leads to mate.

27.Nh4 (D)

27.Kh1 Rh6+ 28.Nh2 f3 29.Q×f3 R×h2# is no better.

Question:

Find the mate for Black.

Answer:

Both 27…f3+ and 27…Q×h4+ lead to mate in 3.

27…f3+

This is a deadly discovered check. 27…Q×h4+ 28.Kg1 (28.Kg2 f3+ 29.Q×f3 Qh2#) 28…Rg6+ 29.Qg4 R×g4# is another mate.

28.Kh1 Q×h4+ 29.Kg1 Qh2# 0–1

29…Rg6# also works.

Game 2 Montanelli (1733)-Girard (1854)

Vitrolles, 2015, English Opening [A17], 0–1

1.c4

The English Opening is a flexible opening that is popular at all levels.

1…Nf6

Black has many choices in reply, and the move chosen doesn’t commit him to a particular setup as yet.

2.Nc3 e6 (D)

3.b3

This is an uncommon, but playable, choice. 3.d4 would probably lead to the Queen’s Gambit or the Nimzo-Indian Defense, depending on Black’s repertoire. Hansen recommends 3.e4 to avoid these transpositions.

3…c5 4.Bb2

4.Nf3 d5 5.d4 Nc6 6.e3= transposes to the Semi-Tarrasch Defense of the Queen’s Gambit.

4…Nc6 5.e3 d5 6.c×d5 (D)

6.Nf3 is more popular here, and White can maintain the central tension after 6…Be7 7.d4 O-O 8.Be2 b6 9.O-O Bb7 10.Rc1=. 6…d4!? is a more aggressive option for Black in this line.

6…e×d5

Black can also play 6…N×d5 7.Nf3 Nf6. The game Agrest (2581)-Golubka (2477), Sweden, 2019, continued 8.a3 Be7 9.Qc2 Bd7 10.h3 Rc8= (½–½, 20).

7.a3

This allows Black to expand in the center. White can play 7.d4 c×d4 8.e×d4 Bd6=+ to stabilize the center, but Black is better developed.

7…d4 8.Nce2

8.Na4 Bd6 9.Rc1 Qe7 10.Nf3-/+ is another option for White.

8…Be7 9.e×d4 c×d4 (D)

Black can increase the pressure by sacrificing a pawn with 9…O-O 10.Nf3 (10.d×c5 B×c5 11.Qc2 Qb6 12.d4 B×d4 13.N×d4 N×d4 14.B×d4 Q×d4-+ leaves White’s king badly exposed in the center) 10…Re8 11.Qc2 c×d4 12.Nf×d4 N×d4-+, and White has trouble developing.

Question:

White now played 10.d3?. What’s a better move?

See next page for the answer.

Answer:

White should play 10.Nf3 Bg4 11.Nc1 O-O 12.Be2 Re8 (12…d3 13.B×d3 Nd5-/+ is an interesting pawn sacrifice for Black) 13.O-O-/+ to get his king into safety.

10.d3?

White is ignoring his kingside development.

10…O-O

Black has a big lead in development, and White’s king is still in the center.

11.h3

White continues to ignore his development. He can play 11.Ng3, but Black is still winning after 11…Nd5 12.Be2 Nc3 13.Qc2 Re8 14.Nf3 (14.B×c3 d×c3 15.Q×c3 Bf6-+) 14…N×e2 15.N×e2 Bg4-+.

11…Re8 12.Qc2

12.Nf3 Nd5 13.g3 Qa5+ 14.Qd2-+ is a better way to develop, although Black is still winning.

12…Bf8 (D)

12…Bf5 13.Nf3 Rc8 14.Qd2 Nd5-+ is another way to maintain the bind.

13.O-O-O?!

This move is too risky, and White’s position quickly collapses. 13.Nf3 Bf5 14.Qd2 Rc8-+ transposes to the previous note.

13…Be6 14.Kb1 Rc8 15.Nf3 (D)

15.Rc1 Qb6 16.Nf3 B×b3-+ is no better.

Question:

What’s a good move for Black?

See next page for the answer.

Answer:

15…Na5! attacks the queen and puts more pressure on White’s position. 15…Qb6 and 15…Nd5 are also strong.

15…Na5!

Black has a winning attack against the White king.

16.Qd2 N×b3 17.Qg5 (D)

Black has a similar mate to the game continuation after 17.Qf4 Qd5.

17…Rc5!

The attack on the white queen frees the d5-square for the black queen. 17…Qb6-+ is also strong.

18.Ne5

18.Qg3 Qd5 also leads to a similar mate.

18…Qd5

Now, White can only avoid mate by giving up material.

19.f4? (D)

White allows a quick mate, but he was lost anyway.

Question:

Find the mate for Black.

See next page for the answer.

Answer:

19…Nd2+!, with mate in 2.

19…Nd2+! 0–1

Black mates after 20.R×d2 (or 20.Ka1) 20...Qa2#.

Game 3 Dangl (1873)-Khalakhan (1892)

Lienz, 2015, English Opening [A20], 0–1

1.c4 e5

Black has many ways of meeting the English Opening. Eingorn recommends 1…c5, while Kaufman recommends 1…g6.

2.g3 Nc6 3.Bg2

This variation of the English Opening was popularized by Kosten in his repertoire book and it was also recommended by Marin.

3…Bc5

Again, Black has a variety of responses depending on his repertoire. 3…Nf6, 3…g6 and 3…f5 are common choices here.

4.e3 (D)

White blunts the scope of Black’s bishop.

4…f5

4…Nf6 leads to a quieter game. 4…d6 5.Nc3 Nf6 6.Nge2 O-O 7.O-O a6 8.a3= was played in Granda Zuniga (2650)-Mareco (2656), Buenos Aires, 2018 (½–½, 22).

5.Ne2 Qf6

5…d6 6.Nbc3 Nf6 7.b3 a5 8.Bb2 O-O 9.O-O+= was played in Guardia Bencomo (1900)-Strand (2015), Gibraltar, 2007 (1–0, 31).

6.Nbc3 Nge7 7.a3 a5? (D)

This is a careless move that should have caused Black problems. 7…d6 8.O-O O-O+= avoids any problems.

Question:

White now played 8.d3?!. What’s a better move?

See next page for the answer.

Answer:

White has the better position after 8.Nb5! Kd8 (8…Bb6? 9.c5! B×c5 10.N×c7++-) 9.d4+/-.

8.d3?!

White missed a strong reply to Black’s faulty move.

8…d6 9.Bd2 O-O 10.Na4

10.O-O+= is safer.

10…Ba7 11.b4

11.O-O+= is again safer.

11…a×b4

The immediate 11…f4=+ is also good.

12.a×b4 (D)

12…f4!

Black has a strong attack after this move. In contrast, Black’s attack stalls after 12…Ng6 13.O-O f4 14.Nec3 f3 15.Ne4 Qf5 16.Bh1+=.

13.e×f4

Black is better after 13.g×f4 (13.O-O?? f3-+) 13…e×f4 14.N×f4 Bg4!-/+. White can’t take the bishop, as he loses the exchange after 15.Q×g4? Q×a1+-+.

13…e×f4 14.Bc3? (D)

White blunders in a difficult position. He can’t play 14.N×f4??, as the knight is lost after 14…g5-+, due to the mate threat on the f2-square.
He should play 14.g×f4 Bg4 15.Nac3 (15.Qb1 B×e2 16.K×e2 Ng6-+ leaves White’s king too exposed) 15…Nd4-/+, although Black is still on top.

Question:

Black now played 14…Bd4?. What’s a better move?

See next page for the answer.

Answer:

Black has a winning advantage after 14…B×f2+!!. Now:

1)       15.K×f2 f×g3+ 16.Ke1 (other moves lead to mate: 16.K×g3 Qf2#; 16.Ke3 Qh6+ 17.Ke4 Qe6+ 18.Be5 Q×e5#) 16…Qf2+ 17.Kd2 Q×g2-+.

2)       15.Kd2 Qg5 16.h4 Qg4 17.Bh3 Qf3 18.B×c8 Ra×c8 19.N×f4 Q×g3-+, and White’s exposed king is difficult to defend.

3)       15.Kf1 Bd4 16.g×f4 Bg4 17.Qd2 B×e2+ 18.K×e2 B×c3 19.Q×c3 Nd4+ 20.Kd1 Q×f4-+, and Black has a winning attack.

14…Bd4?

Black missed a stronger move.

15.B×d4?

White is still in the game after 15.N×d4 f×g3 (15…N×d4 16.O-O=) 16.Nf3! g×f2+ 17.K×f2=+.

15…N×d4 (D)

16.N×d4

White can’t castle now, as Black is winning after 16.O-O f3 17.N×d4 f×g2-+.
As before, Black wins the knight after 16.N×f4 g5-+.

16…Q×d4?!

Black has a winning attack after 16…f×g3 17.Nf3 (17.O-O g×f2+ 18.Kh1 Q×d4-+) 17…g×f2+ 18.K×f2 Bg4 19.Rf1 Nc6 20.Kg1 Nd4-+. He will regain the knight and have continuing pressure on White’s exposed king.

17.O-O

White has managed to get his king to safety.

17…Nc6 (D)

18.Qb3?

This further blunder again puts White in a difficult position. 18.Bd5+ Kh8 19.Qd2-/+ keeps him in the game.

18…f3 19.Bh1

The bishop is now shut out of the game.

19…Qf6 20.Nc3 (D)

Question:

Black now played 20…R×a1?. What’s a better move?

Answer:

20…Nd4! 21.Qd1 (or 21.Qb1) 21…R×a1 22.Q×a1 Ne2+ 23.N×e2 f×e2-+ wins the rook, because of the mate threat on the f2-square.

20…R×a1?

Black missed a stronger move.

21.R×a1 Nd4 22.Qa2 (D)

22…Ne2+!

Black gets a strong passed pawn after the forced knight swap. 22…Re8-+ and 22…Qf5-+ are also strong.

23.N×e2 f×e2 24.f4

Somewhat better is 24.Bd5+ Kh8 25.f4-+, although Black is still winning.

24…Qd4+ 25.Kg2 (D)

25…Re8

25…g5 26.Re1 g×f4-+ also wins, as White doesn’t have a good defense against 27…f3#.

26.Re1 Q×d3 27.Kf2

White doesn’t have a good move. 27.h3 Qd1! 28.Qa1 Q×a1 29.R×a1 e1Q-+ is no better.

27…Qe3+ 28.Kg2 Bg4 29.h3?! (D)

White allows a mate, but he is lost in any case. 29.c5+ Kf8 30.Qd5 c6! (distracting the queen from the h1-a8 diagonal) 31.Q×d6+ Kg8 32.f5 Bf3+ 33.Kh3 B×h1 34.R×h1 e1Q-+ is an easy win for Black.

Question:

Find the mate for Black.

See next page for answer.

Answer:

29…Bf3+, with mate in 3.

29…Bf3+ 30.Kh2 Qf2+ 0–1

31.Bg2 Q×g2#.

More Tactic Exercises 481-501

Chapter 9.  Adamciak (1982)-Ihnat (1733) Slovakia, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for White.

Answer: 1.Nd6!.

1.Nd6!

This move puts more pressure on the kingside while restricting the black queen.

1…Nb6?

Black misses the threat.
1…Qa2 is better, although White is still winning after 2.Ng×f7 Nb6 (2…R×f7?? 3.Q×e6+-) 3.Ng5 Bd7 4.Qh3 h6 5.Nge4+-.

2.Ra1 1–0

Ajele (2163)-Havik (2092)

Gibraltar, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for Black.

Answer: 1…N×e4!.

1…N×e4! 2.B×g4?

2.N×e4 is better, although Black is still winning after 2…R×e4 3.B×g4 B×g4 4.Q×g4 R×c4-+.

2…B×g4 3.Qc2

3.Q×g4 Nf2+ 4.Kg1 (4.R×f2?? Re1+ 5.Rf1 R×f1#) 4…N×g4-+ doesn’t help.

3…Bf5

Black missed the stronger 3…N×c3 4.b×c3 Be2-+.

4.N×e4 B×e4 5.Qb3

5.Qd1 b5 6.a×b5 a×b5 7.R×a8 Q×a8 8.N×d6 B×d5 9.N×e8 B×g2+ 10.Kg1 B×f1 11.K×f1 Q×e8-+ still leaves Black ahead.

5…B×d5 6.Rd1 0–1

Black wins a piece after 6…Qh4 7.Be3 (7.h3 B×g2+! 8.Kh2 Re2-+) 7…B×c4 8.Q×c4 R×e3-+.

Alagoz (1768)-Celebi (1845)

Manavgat, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for Black.

Answer: 1…b5!.

1…b5! 2.c×b5

Not 2.N×b5?? B×d2+-+.

2…c4 3.N×c4 d×c4 4.B×c4 Ne4

Black has won a piece for three pawns and maintains a strong attack. White played on for several moves before resigning.

Amores Gago (2110)-Lopez Atalaya Faine (1829)

Sabadell, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for White.

Answer: 1.R×f5!.

1.R×f5! B×c5+

1…e×f5 2.N×d6+- is no better.

2.R×c5 1–0

Balazs (2068)-Harasta (2128)

Slovakia, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for White.

Answer: 1.Q×e6+!.

1.Q×e6+! R×e6

Not 1…Kh8?? 2.Q×e8+-.

2.R×f8+! 1–0

White wins a piece after 2…K×f8 3.N×e6+ Ke7 4.N×c7+-.

Barjan Pinedo (2048)-Araujo Sanchez (1701)

Santo Domingo, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for White.

Answer: 1.R×h8+!.

1.R×h8+! K×h8

White now has a forced mate. However, 1…Kg7 2.B×f6+ K×f6 3.Qh6+- leaves White a piece up and with a continuing attack.

2.B×f6+ Kh7

White mates after 2…Kg8 3.Qh6, followed by 4.Qg7#.

3.O-O-O 1–0

3.Qg5 and 3.Kf2 also lead to mate. Black can now only delay the mate with 3…B×g4. The finish could be 4.f×g4 Kg8 (other moves are no better) 5.Qh6, followed by 6.Qg7#.

Bartos (2181)-Duda (2034) Liberec, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for Black.

Answer: 1…N×e5!.

1…N×e5!

Black should avoid 1…N×h1? 2.Nc6+ Kf8 3.N×d8 Nf2 4.B×h7 f6 5.N×e6+ Ke7 6.Nc7 N×e5 7.N×a8+-.
In this variation, White mates after 6…Rb8?? or 6…Ra7??. The main line is 7.Nf5+ Kf8 8.e6 Ne4+ 9.R×e4 Bb7 10.e7+ Kf7 11.Nd6#.

2.N6f5+?!

2.R×e5 N×h1 3.Re1 Kf8! 4.N×f7 R×d4-+ is somewhat better, although Black is still winning.

2…Kf6 3.R×e5 N×h1 0–1

Bensaid (1851)-Gruz (1766)

Budapest, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for White.

Answer: 1.a4!.

1.a4! b4

White wins a pawn and has a winning attack after 1…b×a4 2.R×a4 d5 3.R×a6 Bb4 (3…d4?? 4.R×c6+-) 4.O-O+-.

2.Nd5 N×d5 1–0

White is winning after 3.Q×d5 Na5 4.c3 b3 5.Qa8+ Kd7 6.Q×a6+-.

Bensaid (1851)-Kaibinger (1946) Budapest, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for White.

Answer: 1.B×d7!.

1.B×d7! R×d7 2.Bb4+ Be7?

Black should give up the exchange with 2…Rd6 3.B×d6+ c×d6+-.

3.R×e7 1–0

White wins a piece after 3…R×e7 4.Re1 g6 5.R×e7+-.

Berka (1783)-Janska (2066) Marianske Lazne, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for Black.

Answer: 1…Bd4+!.

1…Bd4+! 2.N×d4

Black wins the exchange after 2.Kb4 B×b2-+ because 3.Rb1?? leads to mate after 3…Qe7+. The mainline is 4.Ka4 (other king moves also lead to mate) 4…Qa3+ 5.Kb5 d5 6.B×d5 Bd7+ 7.Bc6 B×c6#.

2…e×d4+ 3.Kb4

Black mates after 3.K×d4 Nc6+ 4.Kc3 Qa5+ 5.Kb3 (5.b4 Q×b4#) 5…Qb4#.

3…Nc6+ 4.Kb3

Not 4.Ka4?? (or 4.Ka3??) 4…Qa5+ 5.Kb3 Qb4#.

4…Qc5

Black now missed 4…Qa5!, and the threat of 5…Qb4# allows him to win the knight after 5.a3 Q×c7-+.
However, the move he played was good enough, and he won after several more moves.

Bezuidenhout (2035)-Lekgau (1952)

Cape Town, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for White.

Answer: 1.Rd1.

1.Rd1 Qe7 2.Ba3 1–0

The queen has run out of squares, and Black has to give up a piece with either 2…Bb4 or 2…Nb4 to save the queen.

Booth (2005)-Shaw (2035)

England, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for Black.

Answer: 1…B×h3!.

1…B×h3! 2.g×h3?

White should play 2.Ne5 Qh4 3.Nf3 Qg4 4.Ne1 Qe6 5.Nc2-/+.

2…Q×h3 3.Q×d5 Qg4+ 4.Kh1 Re6!

The rook’s entry into the attack is decisive.

5.Nh2

Not 5.Qg5? Qh3+ 6.Kg1 (6.Nh2 Q×h2#) 6…Rg6-+.

5…Q×e2 0–1

Black wins a piece after 6.B×g7 K×g7-+ or 6.Bc3 Rh6-+.

Canellas Magide (2072)-Meyer (1646) Igualada, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for White.

Answer: 1.B×d5!.

1.B×d5! c×d5?

1…Nd7 2.B×f7+- is better, but White is still winning.

2.N×d5 Bd7

2…Be6 3.N×f6+ Ke7 4.Nd5++- is no better.

3.Qe7+ Kc8 4.N×f6 1–0

White wins a piece after 4…Q×f6 5.Q×d7++-, and maintains a winning attack.

Celik (1686)-Sahin (1618) Manavgat, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for White.

Answer: 1.Rc1!.

1.Rc1! 1–0

White exploits the pin on the queen, and wins after 1…Nd7 (1…Q×a4?? 2.R×c8#) 2.R×c6+-.

Colom Andres (1903)-Cabrera Marmol (1814) Barcelona, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for White.

Answer: 1.R×e6!.

1.R×e6! f×e6 2.B×c4 N×e4 3.B×e6+ 1–0

White is a piece up.

Csapo (1976)-Gumanny (2139) Budapest, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for Black.

Answer: 1…B×f3!.

1…B×f3! 2.B×f3?!

2.g×f3 Ne6 3.Bg3 Ned4 4.Kh1 Qd7 5.Bf1 Nf3 6.R×e8+ R×e8 7.Qc3-+ is somewhat better, although Black is still winning.

2…R×e1+ 3.R×e1 Nd3 0–1

Black wins the exchange.

Da Rocha (1800)-Silva (1800) Sao Paulo, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for Black.

Answer: 1…N×f3+.

1…N×f3+ 2.g×f3 Q×d1+ 3.K×d1 B×f3+ 0–1

Black wins a piece after 4.Be2 B×e2+ 5.K×e2 R×c8-+.

Da Silva (1770)-Leite (1685) Natal, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for Black.

Answer: 1…N×h2!.

1…N×h2! 2.K×h2 g4 3.Bd1

3.Bh1 f3! 4.Q×h6 Qh4+ 5.Kg1 g3 is no better because White has to give up the queen with 6.Qg5+-+ to avoid mate.

3…Qh4+ 4.Kg2 g3

Black missed 4…Qh3+ 5.Kg1 f3! 6.Qg5+ (6.B×f3 is no better) 6…B×g5 7.B×f3 g×f3, followed by 8…Qg2#.

5.f×g3

Black also wins after 5.Rh1 f3+ 6.B×f3 Q×h1+! 7.R×h1 B×d2-+.

5…f×g3 0–1

White must now give up a rook with 6.Rf4-+ to avoid mate.

Dedebas (2077)-Bayyurt (1719) Manavgat, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for White.

Answer: 1.Qb3!.

1.Qb3!

Black’s previous move was to take a pawn with …R×d5??, rather than simply playing …K×g7, with a playable position. White’s reply shows that the move was a blunder.

1…Rc5

Other moves are no better:
1) 1…Be6 2.Bf3 Rd7 3.Qc3+-.
2) 1…Rf5 2.Bd3 Qd5 3.B×f5+-.
3) 1…Rd2 2.Bf3 Qc2 3.Q×c2 R×c2 4.Bc3+-.

2.Bf3 Qf4 3.Qa3 1–0

The rook can’t move, because of the threat of 4.Qf8#. White remains a rook up after 3…Qg5 4.Bh6! Q×h6 5.Q×c5+-.

Delaney (2155)-Donovan (2032)

Crawley, 2016

Question: Find the winning move for White.

Answer: 1.B×c3!.

1.B×c3! Q×c3 2.Bd5 Nc6?

This move allows Black’s queen to be trapped. However, White is also winning after 2…Qc7 3.B×a8+-.

3.N×b5! Qb4 4.Rfb1 1–0

The queen is now trapped.

Conclusion

Chess Exercise book can be provided to students to help them overcome weaknesses and excel in the skill of chess. Miss Goh's book is one such source that can be used to help improve analytical skills of students in terms of the ability to visualize chess positions as well as developing a good general understanding of chess strategies. Students can make use of the book to develop their general understanding of chess, to become capable of being able to play chess effectively.

Chess is a complex game and it can be difficult for students to comprehend the intricacies of the game. This is because many students are prone to playing games that are too fast and they often lack confidence in their ability in playing the game. However, it is beneficial for students to be aware of the techniques used in playing chess effectively. These are the skills that they can use in other competitive games such as football and soccer.

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The book has a collection of exercises. It contains exercises for players of various skill levels, with techniques and problems to test their skills. Students can make use of these exercises to improve their analytical skills, and to prepare them for other competitive games such as football and soccer.

Students can make use of the book to become more capable of playing chess effectively.

This book will develop students' analytical skills.

The book is a visual guide that can be used by students to improve their skills in playing chess effectively. It contains many images that show students how they move pieces around the board, as well as the walls that come into play when a rook attack is executed. This can help them improve their skills in playing chess effectively.

The book will help students learn how to analyze and solve tactical problems in chess.

Play with it as a jigsaw puzzle. This is a game that not only develops students' analytical skills but also helps them improve their memory.

The book is a guide on how to play the game rather than just a compilation of chess positions.

The exercises will help students improve their analytical skills.